Gammaboy

They do drainback through the pump if left to sit. I out closer to 4l of oil in mine to allow for the extra oil cooler capacity, although I suspect a nose down stance has a bigger effect on getting it to register on the sight window. Reality is, I could get away with 2l of oil in mine with the modified pickup setup. I might just go back to the stock volume and see if it helps with the breather.

You're right. Was trying to think why I'd seen a set of EFE calipers on a Kat, and dug around for the pics - it had EFE forks too.

*should* be the same length as 750SRAD from memory. Akshually, it's here: http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/738 96/97 is 725mm, 98 is 730mm.

After 4 evenings of straightening fins and cleaning the junk (fine gravel and rubber) out of the RSV4 oil cooler, and attacking the Mito fairing with the grinder, I have a solidified plan. Cut/bend bracket to hang the cooler from the bottom of the main rad using OEM rubber mounts (which will annoyingly blank some airflow to the upper rad), cut/bend bracket to mount to the lower cylinder head and steady the bottom of the cooler, add inlet/outlet to the cooler and outlet to the rad, use a Y piece on the cooler outlet to run to the pump. Have also figured the thermostat/filler neck re-work up at the top end, that's just waiting on the weld on filler neck to show up. I'll need to heat the fairing a little to soften it and flatten where the end tanks of the RSV4 cooler go, but that's easy as. I have to mount the cooler backwards, as the bottom mount fouls the bottom cylinders plug otherwise. I also need to knock up a baffle to stop airflow disappearing between the coolers.

http://www.tlzone.net/forums/suzuki-tl1000r-tl1000s-forum/95228-definative-fork-swap-chart.html

A quick dummy up on the bike last night. Need to take to the fairing with the grinder and take a couple of quick measurements, but it looks like I might just stick with the oil cooler core.

Rough dummy up of the RSV4 rad sitting behind the mito rad so that it's at the same height as the Oil cooler.... Might be a goer - winds up as more rad than just the RSV4 unit.

Isn't the seat unit the bike came with the same as the one Patrick (Mr 7/11) had on his bike way back in the old days of the old forum? What was the name of the fiberglass bloke that made them? Tricky?

Extra weight and unecessary bullshit to add to the bike. Yeah, I used to be able to do it from first principles too, but what we term multi pass in bike and car radiators isn't multipass in the terms of classical heat exchanger design - classical heat exhanger design would place the passes stacked in the direction of cooling air flow, so each core sees hotter air as it travels through. The reality is that both are single pass cross flow heat exchangers of equal area, the difference is just the cross section and local velocity of the coolant. The more I look at the oil cooler, the more I think I should have bought a Panigale bottom rad to cut down... might investigate if cutting down the RSV4 rad and putting it on the bottom of the modified stock rad would work too. The oil cooler has much larger passages, more wall thickness everywhere and wider tube pitch vs a real radiator...

Too tight, or too loose? Have you tried crimping the spade socket end a little to tighten them up if too loose?

Yeah - i posted about this on another forum, and another poster reminded me about the whole heat transfer being driven by the temperature delta - which is something I of course knew cos I used it to do some back of the envelope capacity calculations for the RSV4 rad on a warm day here - you can shed a fuckload more heat when the hotside is 100* than when it's 55* - particularly when ambient temps are 30* (Delta is 70 degrees vs 25 degrees)... however, the more i think about it, the more i'm convinced the only difference the flow paths will make is the flowrate through any given tube in the cores - the 3 pass will result in a higher coolant pressure drop across the core, and resulting higher pressure at the cylinder heads which may prevent steam bubble formation, but ultimately a lower flow rate across the system. I'm convinced the boring shite I'm doing at work at the moment is removing my ability to think like an engineer.

Comparing the fische, yep, same part numbers for all the specers on the back wheel for 750 and 1100 in 95.

Ok, some minor progress. I picked up an Aprilia RSV4 radiator (lovely thing, tapered and curved) to investigate slotting it in for extra cooling capacity, unfortunately at this stage it looks like a ballache to modify and fit - because it has reduced curvature compared to the original rad, there's a tonne of chopping required. Luckily it was lightly damaged and cheap. So I reverted to the original plan, and looked at a bunch of different oil coolers - annoying the Ducati ones that looked good for the job had odd end tanks, but the RSV4 oil cooler turned out to be spot on. It has raised a question of plumbing however. I have 2 Mito rads - one is bog stock, and is a dual pass rad. The other has been modified to single pass by knocking out the divider plate, and fitting a outlet on the other end. The stock one is pictured here with the oil cooler as a mock up. So, the question I'm facing, is do I plumb the sub radiator in in parallel with the modified rad, making it one big single pass system, or do I plumb it in as a triple pass system?

These ones. Gives a little more "still air" volume, and a little more filter area. Ramair MS006 is the part number.

There's a version of these that Ramair make that's deeper on one side - they come in the correct spacing for Air/Oil cooled suzukis. Them, plus the 50?55?mm long Mikuni bellmouths work very nicely on the RS's on mine. FWIW, I believe most top level motorsports run air filters these days.

Probably better off making your own arbour, cutting the base off the holesaw and brazing it to the arbour to get minimal runout...

Thankyou very muchly! (or Cheers Bro!)

So, i vaguely recall seeing something comparing the B1250 barrels to the GSXR1100 barrels, but don't recall the outcomes. So, it's pretty obvious that the 1250 is based on the old 1100W, but how usefull is that to people wanting to build frankenstein motors? B1250 barrels/crank into GSXR1100? GSXR head onto B1250 bottom end complete? I imagine the state of tune of the 1250 is pretty soft with small ports/valves/throttle bodies... Of course, my interest in this is purely theoretical at the moment...

Have a read of this thread.

EFE bolts straight on. That's about it.

Dissapointed that it's not a carbon fibre sandwich!

Can someone measure the width and height of the face for me?

The unicorn stuff has the indicator cutouts, which is annoying. If you contact Drew MoriMan on the book of faces he can hunt stuff down for you, he's in Japan so is well placed.

Cheers guys - basically i just need the outline and dimensions of the stock face - want to mock up what I want to build so I don't have to go and spend a fortune on a pile of bits that might not fit.

Anyone got a scan or pdf of the Kat gauge face and some dimensions? I want to mock something up to see if it will work without buying stuff and chopping stuff up... Cheers!