Gammaboy

Should also be able to get it to sit ~1mm deeper onto the end of the crank to alleviate the extra float or wider bronze spacer...

There's no connection between the number 2 and number 3 float bowls (hopefully this pic shows):

That's probably where the tank ran dry...

I gave mine a hiding as a run in... seems to be fine.

If you dig through the catalogs, you'll probably find that some of the much smaller footprint batteries have the same capacity and current specs as the larger batteries - Most of the lithium manufacturers are putting the same cells/electronics kit into different shells, and they either come with an external spacer to make them a drop in, or do the spacer as part of the battery shell. What you buy depends if you want the smallest footprint, or a drop in replacement...

Cheaper than Hospital bills!

I really only used the spacer thickness - which turned out to be 3.5mm too thick for a small pcd katana cover. From memory the Ricks Stator i wound up using didn't need the clearance notch, and I had to make my spacer a PCD adaptor for the small pcd cover. I wouldn't have run into those problems if I hadn't fucked up the cut on my large PCD cover. Infact, I've still got the large PCD spacer floating around - the cheapo stator needed extra clearance pockets in the spacer for the rivets holding it together. Like so: I also just used the stock thrust washer, the extra mm of play in there wasn't going to cause an issue. What Coombehouse hadn't gotten far enough to discover was the need for a spacer/washer between the rotor and the nut. Should be able to *just* see it here:

Looks like i'm coming up on having run that mod for 2 years now.

It's all covered in here:

I haven't done an ignition relay, had an issue with another bike where voltage drop during starting caused the relay to flutter and this eventually killed something in the CDI. I have thrown away the stock stator and crappy magnet rotor and moved to a modern rare earth magnet rotor and associated stator though.

LiFePO4 Battery, Shindigen FH020AA or SH775 reg/rec, wire the stator directly to the reg rec instead of one phase being via headlight switch, job done.

Fuck running a single cable and running the risk of the carbs hanging open on the way into a corner. I'm sure some people do it, but it's not something I'd risk.

Springs in the backing plate might be rooted. does it rattle badly at idle?

Quite frankly, Fuck that.

I've seena mong advertising a "silver bullet" gsxr, but AFAIK it's something the previous owner, or some bloke down the pub made up.

Counterbore the first 2mm to full thread diameter - once you're past the case hardening, it should be ok to tap.

I too would be very interested.

Why not make up a pickup ring for the back wheel with 3 times as many teeth and run a rear wheel sensor? I imagine you're going to run a speedo healer anyway to correct the speedo.

No, no they don't. They bleed oil from the high pressure bearing feed circuit to the head cooling spraybar (which is lower pressure).

Will the pegs be 12" different in height left to right? Or is it proper left/right flat-track?

Have you contemplated binning the hose joiner to go to a Wiggins style clamp? Not particularly cheap, but will never be an issue ever again.

Second hand RS36s? Sounds to me like the worn bodies 370 Steve was suffering from on his first set.

If they're not connected to the cam cover spray bar, how are they oil sapping?

Here's one on evilbay: https://www.Eblag.ie/itm/Suzuki-RGV250-RGV-250-M-N-P-VJ22-1991-1993-Exhaust-Valve-Actuator-Cable/352301783877?hash=item5206d29b45:g:qSsAAOSwS6Zao~JE This is a modified one for a RG or RZ500 engine, the stock one has a pulley that's set up to operate 2 carbs and the oil pump. Has a TPS on the side there - I think only VJ22 and RS250 Aprilias got the TPS version. Crap photo of the stock pulley - the smaller segment interfaces with a cable to the powervalve actuator for some reason (No TPS on this one).

Slot a RGV250 TPS into the middle of the throttle cable?