Crass

Well this fucker ain't moving! Tried the wood through wheel, took wheel off and pinned chain around axle and tried that. Nada. There's too much spring / stretch in the chain to crack the nut. Tried heat. Tried walloping the socket with the breaker bar on the nut under tension. Nowt. A new nut is only £14, cheaper than an impact gun I'm unlikely to use again. I'll dremel it carefully and split it off. Easy job made hard, doncha love it.

That sounds like a plan Riding to the bike shop not an option, SORNed for the winter and oil dropped ready for the seal removal.

I need to replace the output shaft oil seal on my 750L Slingy, which would be an easy job if I could get the nut off the front sprocket. I've tried the bike in gear, rear brake on trick and with a wheel wrench with a socket it still isn't moving, there's too much spring in the chain to get things rock solid enough to crack it loose. I know it's not properly seized as I only replaced the sprocket about 6k ago and torqued the nut on properly, it came off no problem then. I tried a bit of heat from a heat gun but no change. An impact driver would no doubt shift it but I don't have one and I'm reluctant to fork out for something I don't really need. Any more 'conventional' tricks I could try? Possibly LOTS of heat?

Pipped at the post! What he said though.

Sounds like connections to me or a dodgy wire. When you do the swap you disturb the wiring, which 'fixes' it for a while before it plays up again soon after. Probably something loose or a wire which is internally fractured but makes a connection a bit of the time. Have a thorough check of all the connectors and wiring which will be getting disturbed.

RTFR = Read The Fucking Rules

Oh dear, I can see a RTFR lockdown coming up.......

Here's my 750L. Only thing different as it is now is a 30mm jack-up kit I fitted recently with WN sidestand to match. Largely stock machine just improvement mods - K&N air filter in airbox, Hel braided lines, Nitron Sport shock, exhaust is stainless headers (unknown make) welded to Devil link pipe (also had Devil can when bought but I've changed that for the A16 can seen here), powdercoated wheels and swingarm, fresh paint (no decals), Toby steering damper.

Of course they need one. For those of us who aren't actually that fast they're better than a K&N sticker at adding kudos I've got a Toby damper on mine as it had a knackered OEM one on it which I believe are not refurbishable, or not worth reburbishing. Happy with the Toby, it's rebuildable when it needs servicing.

Agree with colinworth79. My L has the 38mm carbs on with stainless headers (source unknown), Devil link pipe and A16 can, K&N filter in the airbox. AFAIAA it's otherwise stock and it fuels great. I would be tempted to avoid fixing something which ain't broke.

Certainly is mate, especially when the fitting instructions with the jack-up kit say the job takes about half an hour. Aye, righto!

Just to add a few comments to this as I recently found this thread very useful through a search, as I needed to do something about the stand on my 750L after fitting 30mm jack-up dogbones. I notice another option is fitting an extension plate to the frame which lowers the stand mounting point and mounting the stand to the plate. But whilst this is a neat idea, and avoids having to mess with the sidestand switch, it's not an option if you have the bellypan fitted to the bike as the repositioned stand will foul it. So, I ordered a 750WN stand. I was thinking that maybe I could use the WN bracket as well, so avoiding the switch issues Gixerjonah found but that's not an option as the WN bracket mounts to the frame in a completely different place to the Slingy so it's not usable, you can only use the stand. So the sidestand switch has to go, unless you want to start major mucking about to weld on some way of activating the switch off the WN stand. I didn't want to start removing the whole sidestand circuit at this time so, as the WN stand also came with a switch which has an identical connector block to the Slingy, I cut off the WN connector block with a length of wire intact, put a bullet connector on the end of the wire, and having removed the Slingy switch complete with wire I bridged out the sidestand circuit by plugging in the doctored WN connector block and bullet to the loom. I may remove the whole circuit in due course but for now this is fine. Only other issue I had was I found that there was a fair bit of play in the WN stand. It looks as if it should be the same as the SIingy but maybe it was a bit more worn. I could have left it but just to do it properly I made up a couple of shims to slip either side of the Slingy bracket pivot point, with the stand bolt passing through them, cut out of some 0.3mm brass sheet. That tightened things up nicely. If I had access to cheap welding I'd have extended the Slingy stand but that not being the case this was the most cost effective solution.

POR15 is excellent and is not affected by ethanol

Here's a couple of pics with it fitted, as promised.

A cm or two! That must be interesting. D'you mean mm?

Hmm....... porn.

OEM clutch cable? I have no problem with quality pattern parts but there's a few items which I think are worth buying OEM, as the pattern alternatives always seem to work out as a false economy IME. Clutch cable is one of them, pattern ones always seem to stretch to the point of uselessness..

The K, RK, L and M are all covered in the one OEM manual (I can see some on Eblag now)

Yep, just fitting it as a replacement for the Devil can in a standard position. It was £ 185 all in with postage, only a few quid more to be made with the non-standard inlet. Nice guy, makes all these up himself so if you need something special just call him with the details and he can make it. Website is here http://www.aa16.co.uk/ and you can see all the various options of what he does. Fitted yesterday, everything spot on. When I drag it out of the shed I'll take a decent pic of it fitted on the bike and post it.

New end can for my 750L Slingy just arrived from A16 Road & Race Supplies. Bespoke made to my spec as the link pipe is non-standard. Had another of these on another bike for a few years now, top quality and no hesitation in going back to them when I wanted this making.

Valve shims in a 750L motor - surely not?

No, you don't need the coils to earth through the frame by way of the mounting, you can have them dangling from a bit of string as far as they care.

To answer your original query, I replaced the original knackered damper on my 750L with a Toby damper. They make an exact replacement and from their product list it looks like they cater for the 1100 as well. If you're struggling to find a retailer I bought mine from Steve Jordan M/Cs http://www.stevejordanmotorcycles.co.uk/ , if fact they recommended it after Sprint stopped doing one for the bike. They do mail order, should be able to sort you out. Been very happy with mine and it's fully serviceable.

Ok, I was thinking the baffle was like the removable thingumyjig that slips in the end of a can and blocks the bore to reduce dB. Tis what the zorst manufacturers often market as 'removable baffle'. No, pretty sure the link pipe is stainless as you say but I reckon the can is alloy. There is evidence it used to be painted black originally, which has been polished off. The spout is stainless.