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Crass

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Everything posted by Crass

  1. For extra power make sure you use pukka Suzook tie wraps, though
  2. Original writeup now edited to include an inline fuse in the mod.
  3. I had some bad wear on 750L cams when I bought the bike and wear on two followers. Followers are cheap and easy to get hold of in good nick second hand and common to several models, so just bought the couple I needed. The cams I sent off to Kent Cams and had them rehardened and ground to OEM spec. Off the top of my head I think it cost me about £250. I preferred that to buying another set of cams as the bike's a keeper and a second hand set might not have lasted in the long run, for the bit of extra outlay I've now got a set that will last.
  4. Excellent, thanks for this. I agree with you regarding the post which was made showing a wiring diagram - that doesn't match the genuine circuits on the bikes as per the manual, so it only serves to confuse. Threw me at first until I got the manual out. I'm going to add an inline fuse to the trigger feed and I'll go with a 10A fuse. I'll amend the original post when I've done it to show the addition of a fuse, which people can omit if they prefer. Personally I think it's worth adding, it's virtually no extra work /expense. If you ever did get a short on that circuit with it unprotected through chafing of insulation over the years you're going to have a straight discharge of the battery to earth, which could get rather warm. IMHO it ain't worth the risk for a couple of quid on a fuse and makes the job nice and tidy. We like tidy .
  5. Also worth saying that the fuse rating is the continuous current rating. The wiring used in the mod illustrated is 30A rated, so a fuse will typically pass twice the continuous rated current before blowing. If you put a 30A inline fuse in the trigger wire it's going to pass ~60A before blowing - way too high! My feeling is a 10A fuse in this circuit is going to be right. Without getting heavily into another subject, anyone who has removed the breaker on their bike now has an unprotected charging circuit. The fuse box only protects the rest of the electric, the feed from the alternator to the battery does not pass through the fuse box, it passes through the 30A breaker. A branch does then pass through the fuse box to feed the bike's electrics but without the breaker in place (or some replacement protection) the charging feed to the battery is unprotected in case of short circuit / over-current etc.
  6. Having had a sleep on this I'd revise my statement that an inline fuse is overkill. Without a fuse you've basically got an unprotected connection direct from battery +ve through the trigger circuit to earth. If anything were to go wrong in that circuit to cause a short to earth it could make a bit of a mess so a fuse would be sensible. Looking at the circuit I think 30A is too high. The +ve feed through the breaker with stock wiring is the main power feed to the whole bike, except the starting circuit. With the breaker still in the wiring the charging mod as above does not bypass the breaker absolutely, it still feeds the rest of the electrics just not the trigger circuit. Also, the breaker protects the charging circuit as the feed from the alternator to the battery (which we don't interfere with in the charging mod) also passes through it. So the 30A rating is to cater for the entire electrical load of the bike, an inline fuse in the trigger wire alone ought to be a lesser rating than that. I'll stick a meter in the circuit when I get a mo and see what sort of current draw there is and choose a fuse rating to suit. Worse comes to the worse I'll choose one by trial and error, taking the bike out with some spares in my pocket, stick a 10A in and see if it lasts, if not go up a rating etc.
  7. Maybe start a new thread on this one as it could get messy all mixed in with discussion of the original mod and leave people trying to follow one or the other subject a bit confused when referring to it in future?
  8. Yeah, personally I think an inline fuse in the wire from the battery direct to the trigger is overkill. The way I interpret the actual wiring diagram in the manual is that the trigger feed does NOT go through the fusebox, way I see it is it goes from battery positive through the 30A circuit breaker to the ignition switch. This mod bypasses the breaker, which a lot of people remove from the bikes anyway. So I guess if you really wanted to be belt and braces you could put a 30A inline fuse in the wire from battery positive to the trigger circuit connection to replace this that you've bypassed. Only way it would ever come into play as I see it is if you got a massive short circuit somewhere in the trigger circuit.
  9. No, that's not my understanding of what I've made. In particular the mention of low and high current circuits on your diagram. The only circuit you are altering is the trigger circuit, you are not cutting into the feed from the alternator to charge the battery. As jonny1bump says, B is wrong, you're just feeding full battery voltage TO THE TRIGGER CIRCUIT when the relay is energised. No mention of inserting a fuse in this wire in the original writeup, so I didn't, but to be fair there should be one as you have bypassed the existing fusebox. Plenty of wire and space to put in an inline fuse to be safe, though. Trying to work out from the wiring diagram what the correct rating for this would be. It's only trigger voltage so 10A?
  10. Stock pitch is 530. I've always found B&C Express to be good.
  11. So the job is now done and here is the result You can only see the join if you get right close up so this is good enough for me I used Loctite All Plastics superglue, which worked great. The needle wasn't stuck to the central rotating disc at the point where it snapped but it is now. I roughened up the parts of the needle which were to be glued, and the corresponding place on the central disc, with the tip of a pin. The Loctite comes with an activator, which you touch on the bonding surfaces first to prepare the plastic, then the glue. Without the needle on the stop the central disc rotates anticlockwise beyond zero, so I moved it clockwise a short way and secured it with a bit of low tack masking tape. Otherwise you're going to have to bend the needle to the right side of the stop when you've finished. Needle glued both at the point where it broke plus to the central disc. Once the superglue was well set after a few hours I mixed up a little epoxy and put a strengthening brace between the underside of the needle and the disc edge as here Once all back together the clocks now fit snugly in the mount with no play up and down - they rattled like hell before. You can see the rubber dampers - both of which I turned over - now lightly contact the metal mount to prevent movement. So if you can pull your clocks up and down in the mount it's a sure sign your mount needs attention and if you don't sort it you'll be sorting your needles as well too in due course. Which is a pain. Hope that helps people. I'm hoping this repair is strong and lasts, the underlying issue having been sorted as well. Fingers crossed.
  12. If you ask one of those nice mod peeps they might do it. Glad it helped you.
  13. Problem is once your product gets a reputation for being shite no matter how cheap you've made it people soon walk. Takes a long time to build up a good reputation but you can destroy it pretty quick.
  14. In case it helps anyone else in future I'll show some details of what I'm doing to add to the archive of info on here. So, as CC said previously the underlying problem is that the foam clock mount deteriorates with time, allowing the clocks to contact the metal mounting plate and vibration to cause fatigue failure of the needles. You can see the extent of the damage on my clock, a deep groove in the case - If you don't sort out the underlying problem you're wasting time and money repairing / replacing the clocks. The clock surround consists of two elements, there's a rubber covering with foam beneath. The foam also extends through the metal backing plate to provide further cushioning between the clocks and the plate - it is this which I reckon fails the worst, certainly was on mine, allowing the clocks to rattle inside the holes in the plate. So you need to remove all the old foam carefully from the rubber cover, to which it is glued. I snipped carefully with small scissors, then scraped the remainder off with a bluntish Stanley knife. Having done this you can then insert a new piece of dense foam cut to shape and glue in place - I used impact adhesive - like so - But you also have to put some foam around the rims of the circles in the metal plate - You can see the slot I cut in the metal plate to allow the odometer shaft of the speedo to pass through. I couldn't see a way to remove this, I think it is glued on after the speedo is in place as another obstacle to speedo removal / tampering. Obviously you need to cut a slit in your new foam here to allow the shaft to go back through. The surround can now be glued onto the metal plate - I'm going to glue the tacho side on and leave the speedo side detached until I've wiggled the speedo back in once I've repaired the needle.
  15. Yeah, not available from them either. Trouble is with ordering from the US you are generally going to get stung for postage, and above a small value import duty and all that palaver.
  16. Yes, my part 10 is slightly damaged on the upper surface. I was initially chuffed to find CMSL had a NOS one for 3 Euros, then they take the piss with wanting 14 Euros to post something the size of a pea! Anyway, then realised it is identical on the upper and lower surfaces, and the lower surface never touches anything, so you can turn it over
  17. So after removing the speedo I can confirm the Captain is right. The foam surround on the mounting plate has deteriorated and there is very little foam left between the clocks and the rim of the mounting plate, so the speedo has been rattling on the plate. So bad in fact it has worn quite a deep groove in the casing. No wonder the needle gave up. I'll insert some new heavy density foam before remounting both clocks. The needle itself is made half-round for part of its length to allow it to sit on the centre pivot disc. It has snapped on the half-round - thinnest - section. So that's not a shard of plastic on it. I don't think this is particularly a UV-damage issue, just a fatigue break caused by severe vibration. I'm actually going to see how it goes glued together again, with a blob of epoxy on the underside of the needle bridging to the disc for added strength. With the damping medium replaced I think it might work - worth a punt and if not I'll replace the needle then. So it's worth saying that it might be worth checking your foam surrounds. Much easier to replace a bit of foam now before your needles break than piss about dismantling clocks.
  18. Sorted - no way I can see to remove the shaft, peeled back foam and cut a slot in the mounting plate with a Dremel and removed that way
  19. The easy - possibly the - solution would be to cut a slot in the mounting plate with a dremel for the shaft to pass through.
  20. The knob is just glued onto the end of the hollow metal shaft. It's not the knob I need to get off the shaft, it's the whole shaft I need to remove from the body of the speedo.
  21. GSXR750L clocks. So how does the odometer shaft remove? I can't see a way of getting the speedo out of the mounting plate with the shaft in place, so I assume it comes off, but how isn't obvious. I can't see a screw head down the hollow shaft and neither a crosspoint not flathead screwdriver is engaging with one. I need to get the shaft off, so I can get the speedo out, so I can remove the bezel and repair the needle. I know it's going to be bleedin' obvious but I'm having a thick day, please humour me.
  22. What you say about UV light is what I originally surmised was the cause. Leads me to think that replacing the clock with another could be Russian roulette - I could end up with another brittle needle which lets go after not long. Similarly, replacing the bezel and needle with a second-hand donor. I reckon the only permanent repair is replacement of the needle with a newly manufactured one. It would be a whole lot easier if I left the bezel in place as removal seems to be dodgy either way. I was thinking of carefully removing the existing needle from the bezel, or grinding it down carefully until the remains are flat, then sticking a new needle on top. Mitzybits sems to be out of stock of the needles ATM so I suspect these might do the job if removed from their bezels - which seems straightforward - and stuck on, possibly with some trimming https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/NEW-MOTORCYCLE-SPEEDO-MPH-REV-COUNTER-NEEDLES-X-2-CLOCKS-GAUGE/252585088190?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20170907081254%26meid%3D205c52335f934a57aa9493f9f03c7fce%26pid%3D100281%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26%26itm%3D252585088190&_trksid=p2045573.c100281.m3567
  23. Thanks John, that's really helpful. Not what I wanted to hear but I'm glad I've heard it, as I can now avoid making a right bollocks of it. Much to ponder.
  24. Yes, I'm guessing that's because the basic problem which CC mentioned remained, i.e. vibrations getting to the clock from the bracket. My feeling is that even if the clock isn't actually touching metal then the foam deteriorates over the years and becomes hardened and the damping effect reduces. I'm going to stick some new foam around the clock casing to rejuvenate the damping effect as part of the job.
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