Crass

Try different pads. I agree with the Captain, there's noyhing wrong with the stock system per se. Personally, I found OEM Suzuki pads shockingly shite. Ferodo pads totally transformed the bike.

If I press the headlights on my Slingy at the side they move away from, I assume, the alignment screws and when released return with a small clonk. The point being that only slight pressure is needed to move them so I suspect that on the move, on bumps, the headlamps rattle in their mounts slightly. Is this normal or has something worn or degraded? Reason I ask is I ended up repairing a speedo needle due the foam mount having degraded and I wondered if there was any foam and or damping rubber in the headlight unit which ought to be restored before the rattling causes any damage. Unless 'they're all like that sir'.

Now the fun starts - getting the old headers off without snapping off the bolts in the head (settles down with popcorn)...

Reopening for takeaway and outside seating Friday to Sunday only initially, 8am to 2pm, from May 15 following Bozzer's announcement this evening.

These dates are still going ahead so far. Note that if you use this cafe it is still open following yesterday's announcement doing takeaway only, which is fine as most people sat on the outside seating anyway. Open Friday to Sunday. Wherever you live try and support your bike cafes during this difficult time. Our way of life is under threat if we come out of this with everywhere closed down forever.

With the Yorkshire God Mick Grant himself piloting.

They have now announced the dates for this year (2020) for these pie and peas bikers nights. All 6pm to 8pm on Wednesdays - 24 June 22 July 19 August 16 September

That advert looks like Pete Stansfield in Malton. He breaks loads of oil boilers. I had some bits off him when I was restoing my 750L. Nice bloke. Might be worth dropping him a line to see if he has what you're looking for, although a stainless system is surely as good as new, it's not like they rot? You can always swap out the dinged can on that one.

Nice fix. Another option if the original needle is unfixable and again avoids the dangers trying to remove the centre pivot mounting from the shaft

June sounds good but if you could avoid TT at the beginning as peeps may be 'abroad'.

Or buy the little numbered labels you can stick round the leads, they only cost pennies from the usual online outlets

I managed to get new securing thingies a few years ago, although they are discontinued by Suzuki and not available NOS in the UK. Try German Eblag, that's where I got mine off a Deutsch dealer. I believe it helps to use the German name for them as a search term but I can't remember it. One of our fluent members will be along soon. Failing that I believe silicone sealant works well enough.

The caliper looks right. The boot fits over the lip which runs round the ring-shaped casting surrounding the piston and then also on the lip on the piston itself. Obviously you have to get the pistons out a bit to fit the boot on them, then push everything back in before you mount the caliper. The boot also attaching to the piston should ensure it is clear of the pad. Your post suggests maybe you've got the boot attached to the caliper body but not the piston?

With you saying the pad is hitting the boot rubber it suggests to me you don't have the shims fitted which separate the piston / boot from the pad. I don't know how to show a fiche diagram on here, perhaps someone else will do the necessary, but if you go to the Alphasports website you can look for yourself what your assembled caliper should contain.

Did you just hear that whooshing noise Dezza?

Horn bracket?

Perhaps the weight discrepancy is down to the fork oil in them. If someone has put a heavier weight oil in them, like...

I've had great service from Steve Jordan. Offers OEM rebuild service, which is what you're after http://www.stevejordanmotorcycles.co.uk/suspension.asp

I had both the wheel and swingarm powdercoated on my 750L, and fitted new bearings obv., and absolutely no problems putting the wheel in. Suspect a good bike-specific powdercoaters would mask off any bearing surfaces anyway, or you'd have sod all chance of getting the bearings in. Would be surprised if the swingarm was such a tight fit as stock that powercoat would affect things so seriously. Something's not right.

Make sure you also fix the underlying problem too, which is probably deteriorated foam / damper rubbers, or you'll be doing it all again in future.

Before you think about replacing the needle you might want to read this thread

There don't seem to be many used on eblag at a sensible price either. Personally for that price I'd mend the one you've got. Some glue specifically for rubber will sort the ripped hole for a fraction of the cost and the rest is just normal wear.

Sorry baldrick, that did make me chuckle. I used to work with a bloke who was a master at mixed metaphors and he often creased us up (opening up a can of worms / stepping into a minefield)

Can't see how that's going to work. Not only does there look to be only a gnats clearance but I can't see how a chain is going to clear it.

I got lost too but then I even failed to RTF Directions and had a tour around the estate on the opposite side of the road first - doh.