bluedog59

+1 on that. If anybody has the serial numbers for any of the bearing that we pay for the nose for, please post them up Maybe they should be listed in a "sticky".

You already know the answer. Both.....NOW.

It's all in the prep with paintwork. If you take your time you can get very good results with rattle cans. And if it comes out crap, you've not wasted much cash.

Jeez !! If it wasn't for bad luck, you wouldn't have any luck at all. When you get it rebuilt (again), DON'T LEND IT TO ANYBODY !!!!!!!!!

PORN !!!!!!

If that's a first attempt I'd be well happy with it so far. Well done.

Yep, they're different but I think there is a way round it with an inlet rubber swap.

I was presuming that and as a final check. The tape measure will get you very close but volume will fine tune.

If you visually scroll out the downpipe lengths they look around about the length a 4/2/1 would start to merge into 2. Have you got them all the same length ? One way to check is to plug each pipe on the bench and fill them full of water. You can then compare their volume and it gives you a visual idea of any length adjustments required.

If I remember right 1100's are 52/56mm and the 750's are 50/54.

Block on the right in your pictures is for the flanged spindle end to lock into while you do the nut up on the other end. The chamfered lip goes towards the rear of the swingarm and the square edged lip on both is where the chain adjuster bolts push on. I find putting the spindle so the nut end is on the brake side best as it's easier to get at if the bike is on the side stand.

Well that's certainly one way round the old "engine towards the front or back" question. Very neat job.

A random thought and shoot me down in flames if you think it's bollocks ( I'm only trying to help). You're putting the studs in finger tight. Is there a chance that this is allowing a high frequency vibration between it and the casing thread (itself a stress raiser) and starting the crack ? Maybe a bit of thread lock would help damp it out ? Have you got a set of u/s cases that have cracked ? You could cut them back to find the root of the crack but I'd suspect it starts from the thread form. Another option would be to reinforce the area with some weld before they start to crack.

You'll also find that even the slightest pressure on the screws will affect the readings so,what you thought was spot on turns out to be wrong after you've blipped the throttle. Don't worry, you'll get the hang of it.

If they are anything like all the ones I have done, No 2 carb is the "base" and can't be adjusted as such. The left screw is for matching No1 to No2. The right screw is for matching 3 and 4. The middle screw is for matching the left pair (No 1+2 ) and right pair (No 3 +4) to each other. You'll also need some way of supplying fuel with the tank removed, an old 2 stroke oil tank does the job nicely.

Crankcases are machined as a matched pair. In theory you may be able to use an unmatched pair if the main journals used the same sizes in each case or even if you used the correct shell to match crank to each case................... but I wouldn't unless I was very, very desperate Whereabouts is the crack as they may well be weldable ?

Plated steel hose fittings are a lot cheaper than the anodized alloy ones. You can always paint them to look like expensive ones.

If the carbs are already touching the frame, you're going to have a problem fitting a taller 1100 engine. Oil on the inside and water outside ? What's a GT750 engine then ?

A drop of Castrol R30 in the tank should sort it.

That looks very tidy. Keep making the blue smoke.

Service limits are: Bore. 70.075 mm Piston. 69.880 mm Piston to Bore clearance. 0.12 mm Piston ring groove clearance. 0.18 mm Ring end gap (fitted) 0.5 mm

You'll pay more for a set of custom rods than a good B12 engine.

The advantages of a dry clutch are that there is less drag from not churning through oil, better grip due to lack of oil on the plates, less oil contamination due to plate wear and it's far easier to change plates. The downside is that they wear quicker, can be abrupt on take up and don't like drag starts. The fact that they rattle like a bag of spanners is a + or - depending on your taste. Conversion kits from wet to dry sometime also convert from helical to straight cut primary's for more power and least side load. The extra noise not being a consideration as they're normally a race part. I have run one on the road on a Learnerbike for poofs RSC 996 engine with no problems as long as you remember the above.

I think I've got a factory service manual if you'd like me to dig out the service limits for the rings and bores.

If you're going to reuse the tensioner, put a new spring in it. They're cheap and mine was about 20% shorter than a new one when I replaced it.