rodneya

Pretty sure it was. The clutch and left cover were covered in blue silicone from being off before. But everything else looked like it had never been touched before.

My 83 GSx1100E crank is welded.

I thought I had seen a list of parts that will interchange between different oilcooled motors, but I can find it now. specifically engine covers between B6, B12 and 1127 motors. Parts numbers are not really helpful as some have different numbers, but use the same gaskets.

I sprayed my engine and frame with 2k Hot Rod satin black.

or this one

Mark Walker making sweet looking frames for oilcooled GSXR.

In the UK maybe, but in Canada there are not that many that I have seen for sale. Water cooled motors are a different story.

Well EFE it is then. thanks.

Got an opportunity to buy a new motor and have two options. EFE motor with 1200 kit and cams ( cant remember what the guy mentioned at the moment) or a 1127 oil cooled motor from a late 80's say what now!? and looking for some opinions. Motor may go into my Katana, or a future project. And yes I would like both, but I dont think I can swing that at the moment.

Pics are pretty small, so hard to see, but is that mat finish?

was that frame originally brazed together?

1127 motor from a 1991 Katana 1100. Is this motor the same as the older gsxr 1127 motors? I cant seem to find any useful info anywhere.

Motogpwerks sells these billet brackets to fit a small Brembo under slung to a SRAD without a torque arm. Shouldn't be to hard to get one made to fit.

If there is a lot of rust or old fuel residue it will speed the process up if you remove some of it first. I put a handful of drywall screws in the tank and sloshed it around with some water. They did a great job scraping off the big stuff and are easy to get out with a little magnet on a telescoping rod or something.

It was sawzolled just behind the motor. Meant to look like a badly crashed bike. They even cut the back of the tank. I cleaned up to motor and sold it. Had a bunch of gouges out of the back of the cases and a cut into the clutch cover.

I bought a movie prop SRAD to use as parts. It was cut in half and had been painted really badly with rattle cans. I managed to get just the spraypaint off stuff with thinners or acetone on a rag. the factory paint is a lot harder to remove.

If you use something like concrete remover that is quiet aggressive you will need to line the tank to stop flash rusting. I used electrolysis for my tank and the last few rounds I used TSP solution. This leaves a phosphate coating that does not flash rust.

Ive always had good results with deck screws. Hammer the tip in a bit first

That looks to be exactly where it goes. Thank you very much Arttu. I asked this on a few different places and got absolutely zero answers back. Gotta love the previous owner of this bike. I guess the huge amount of blue silicone gasket maker that was smeared all over the motor and inlets and the speaker wire in the harness should have been a giveaway to his ability to do a decent job of anything.

Nope, No 8 is a huge thick washer with a groove across the one side

My 1982 750 Katana has a 1983 GS1100E motor. Putting the clutch basket back in I noticed that there were two washers behind the oil pump drive gear when I took it apart. Parts diag shows only 1 washer that is 25mm by 50mm by 2.5mm thick. With this in place the gear lines up with the gear on the oil pump. The other one I have is 25mm by48mm by 1mm thick. Any Ideas where this should go?

I use electrolysis on my Katana tank. The last few rounds I used TSP solution. It leaves a phosphate coating that prevents flash rusting after rinsing out the tank. Its pretty slow, but it worked perfectly. I will not damage paint either.

where about are you located? You can buy mine.

Why do you say to always use the headlight? Is it because one of the stator power wires goes directly to the headlight?

There is no spot for a temp gauge on this, just the pressure sender. The hole on top is for the rear mounting bolt.