rodneya

Cheap led flasher units can be hit and miss quality wise. They are all made in China With a mix of led signals, regular dash lights and the self cancelling unit, you may be better off adding resistors to the signal wires so that the old flasher recognizes them.

Thats why I just buy RS carbs.

the ones beside the oil filter cover are 14*1.5. The ones on the side of the head and behind the pickup cover are 14*1.25

That is quite a detailed writeup. How come I can never find something like that for dealing with 40 year old electrical gremlins when I need to.

https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/5060-katana-wiring-diagram/ Diagram links in this old post

What clutch plates are you running? The motors with the shim behind that washer came with 11 steels instead of 9 and 10 drive plates instead of 9. The drive plates were thinner, 1.85mm instead of 2.6mm. The clutch pack started and ended with a steel.

What oil do you have in the motor?

I was thinking of doing that on my Kat, but fitted threaded dog bones instead.

Lean.

I dont see the pdf version available online anymore so here is the step by step somebody made.

I had to go up a size on pilots on the RS36's on my 1170 Kat. Tried to get the bike into local shops to get setup on a dyno, but the few guys that actually knew what a carb was kept giving me the run around. Tried the color tune but its a pain to use. Ended up getting a Koso AF meter and welding a bung into the pipe. At first I was just going to use it stuck into the tailpipe, but this way I can see whats going on while riding. There is also a lot of bad info around the web regarding tuning RS carbs, especially syncing and fuel screw settings that really made it hard for me to figure out what I needed to do

As I understand the difference, a CDI can advance and retard spark, but an ignitor needs a mechanical govenor behind the pickups for advance

What should the compression reading be around? Motor has been sitting for a while and will be cold (really cold, about 5 deg C in my garage right now) Edit: tracked down a manual and the rebuild limit is 114 with normal between 142 and 199 PSi (warm motor readings) Im getting 130 PSi cold. How much would that go up to if the motor was warm?

Somebody have the thread size for the fittings needed?

I have a slabby motor I want to sell, but I would like to check compression first. Problem is I do not have an oil cooler that fits so there is no oil in the motor. If I plug the cooler takeoff points under the motor and fill with oil, is the oil still going to circulate to where it needs to go while cranking for the compression test? Im assuming there is a bypass.Any suggestions on how to temporarily block the cooler takeoff holes.

Proper fucked

MTC is another option in FL

Reciepts for parts or work done. Without that Id assume the motor probably needs a rebuild. Seen too many people get caught out by the just been rebuilt lie. Looked at a Mini years ago and the owner was adamant the motor was 100% rebuilt. After a lot of questions he finally admitted that he had "checked over the motor" and replaced the tappet cover gasket.

SRAD front axle is round inside.

The hex part sticks out past the fork, so you should be able to file it a bit to get some flats back for a wrench, or get one of those sockets for removing stripped bolts that dog into head and grip. I usually loosen the pinch bolts on the sleeve side and only tighten the outer one enough to stop the sleeve turning.

An impact screwdriver with the correct bit should get them moving without damaging them.

How are you planning on stopping the bush turning in the swingarm and changing the offset?

Then vapor blast is your best option to keep a good finish

Vapor blasting does not leave a good surface for painting. Soda blasting would be better. And the soda dissolves in water for cleanup.