Swiss Toni

FBOAB'll tell ya!

Be interesting to read that build thread again, if possible? Twas a good 'un!

If you had the choice of using the original engine in your 750 Slabbie, or using a 750 Slingshot/Dot head motor, which would you use ... and, why?

Then it wouldn't be funny anymore!

Good little bike! And, as you've found out, the costs are mounting up! That's half the pleasure of restoring something that's one step away from the scrap heap. Keep the pictures coming!

Welcome!

Good advice from Dezza & Blubber. Keep your phone beside you when you strip it. Take plenty pictures at each stage.

@davecara750F top fairing has 3 mounting holes for mid panels ... G & H have 2.

That's more like it! Welcome to OSS!

Lot of work involved taking width of arm. Trim arm, deepen bearing housings, shorten bearing spacer. As JD says, it's easier going for the VFR arm, and fitting the Trumpet hub. But ... do a bit research, as I believe the later VFR arm is more suitable.

@DuckndiveYou may be right! I seem to remember, when Suzuki built the '85 Slabbie in a few days at the NEC. That guy Jason just hoiked the motor in from the right side of the frame. Someone was on the left side to take some of the weight. But, I can't remember if the engine was complete, or sump off. Long time since I've seen it!

Hey Mike! Welcome to OSS. You've got a good start there. Pictures ... we love pictures!

Nah! It's impossible ... you couldn't do it for laughing!

@inazumarobI'll have a wander over to my local Homebase with a caliper. See how it compares.

What colour Gold, Rob? I used Ford Harvest Gold.

Oven cleaner will remove anodising. Brush it on, leave a few minutes, then hose it off to neutralise it. It will go black, but will polish up. There was an anodiser that did frames somewhere in the Midlands. Competitive price too. If I can find the phone number, I'll post it up.

Aye Aye! You can take the boy outa the Navy, but .....

Yes mate! By 32mm long!

@YoshiJohnnyHey John! Apologies! 14x1.5 is wrong! I think I picked a GSX1100 bolt up. Just measured Bandit union bolt. It's 16 x 1.5mm! Sorry again, mate!

14 x 1.5mm

Still showing 12.7V. Just put an indicator bulb across battery, wouldn't even light it! Not a flicker! New one at weekend, methinks!

I had same problem with 750 Slabbie. I had to drop sump and remove oil pick-up pipe.

I think FBOAB was getting 150BHP with just the head & cams on B12. He'll be along shortly to confirm ... or not!

Well ... it's sorted! All you guys that suspected the battery, were spot on! Even though the bastard thing was showing 12.7V! Anyway, as I'd just bought a new battery for our lass's car, I decided to hook it up to the bike before I fitted it to her car. Bonny Lights back! Turned over a bit sluggish, though! Stripped and cleaned starter solenoid, starter motor and battery terminals. Cleaned the main earth on the back of the crankcases (could Suzuki have made it any more awkward to get to?), and re-fitted it. Hit the button again, and cranking speed back to normal! @duncan Same symptoms as you, excluding reverse polarity! Battery showing 12.7V. Soon as ignition switched on, voltage drop to .7V recovering to 1.9V! FUBAR'd then! Bearing in mind FBJ's scary new battery experience, what's decent gear, and what's to avoid? Cheers Oldskooler's!

Never thought of RF arm as B12 replacement. Like the idea of no torque arm. Iirc the 750 WN was the same caliper set-up!