Swiss Toni

Both F & G arms are 232mm wide at the pivot point. This is without caps/shims, so I would add 2/3mm to this. Hope that helps you decide!

They're all in 'The Vault'

All of the above!

I've got 2 750 F & G arms in the garage. I can measure the widths for you, if needed?

Now you're trying to talk yourself out of it! Be a man ... buy it!!!

Might just be me ... not seeing the big picture!

Don't deliberate ... or it'll be gone!

Do you not think the B12 arm might look a bit too 'chunky', kinda overpowering that frame? How about a std. 1100 Katana ET/EX ''arm? You can still go 160. Just sayin'!

It's very nice!

Call them. 020 8502 6222. Tell them what you've got, what you want ... they'll advise and make them (it) up for you.

Hagon!

Removing the cable in situ is a pia, but not impossible. If you can't do it, disconnect the cable from the throttle, then remove the carbs. Removing ... Easy. Re-fitting ... that depends on how hard the boots (rubbers) are. Before doing this, take notice of the cable run. Fit the new cable to the carbs first, and run it back to the throttle on the same route it took when you removed it. You did take notice, didn't you? Good! But, if the YCC hasn't done the trick with the poor running, you may as well open the carbs up and give them a good clean. Ultrasonic is good! Do one at a time. Don't rush it. Keep things clean and tidy.

+1! Good advice! Systematic problem solving. Eliminate one problem, go on to the next ... until it's running like a sewing machine! If your throttle cable's got broken strands, it'll be stiff to open, and hang up when you're trying to close it. Check it out, and renew if needed. Just take your time. If you're not sure...ask! The only stupid question is the one you're don't ask. We all had to start somewhere! Stick with it. You'll get there.

Before trying to strip your carbs, and maybe making things worse, buy a bottle of this. Follow the instructions to the letter. If it improves things ... great! If not, at least the carbs wi be nice and clean internally!

Hello mate. Nice ET/EX!

You can alter the ride height by lengthening/shortening the length of the lugs on item 9!

Welcome to OSS. Wheel may fit, but if using std swinger, you might have to 'trim' the stiffening webs on the inside of the arm.

Stuck a Hagon in mine. £250ish.

PM'd!

PM sent regarding loom.

Like the bike, Skinny! Welcome!

+1. Get a decent battery! Mine read 13V, and was f*cked! Worth spending a few extra pesos!

Hi, and welcome! Plenty on here use the old Powerscreen engine as a good base! Tourqey!

You'll get used to the 'piss taking' on here ... it's a requirement! As for the yokes, I think you might find both top and bottom yokes may be bent/twisted on the left side! If that's the case, then it's a new pair required!

Sorry, mate. Couldn't resist! Joking aside, you say you've dropped it? Are the yokes (trees) steel or alloy? I'm guessing the latter. Slacken the yokes off, and try again. If all goes well, you've simply had everything done up too tight, and miss-aligned. If still no good, leave the yokes in the bike, remove the legs, and take a measurement from beneath the top yoke, (where the stanchions go 'thru), to the top of the lower yoke, at the same place. This'll show if the yokes are bent. Or, remove the top yoke, sit it on a known flat surface. Both ends should have contact. If pressing down on one side creates an air gap ... another indicator your yoke is bent (twisted)! I wouldn't recommend trying to straighten the yoke(s), as they're easily available from breakers.