Gixer1460

Not only is it not the right bike it's not the right pipe either! The guy wants a Pro Pipe ie. a V&H Drag Racing type megaphone ! ! ! I can post up loads of pic's of the right pipe but fitted to EFE's - so that would be pointless!

F**k that's gonna confuse people who know Suzuki wiring colour codes! Blk / W is Suzi earth, but this goes to Bat + ! ! ! Scary if you get that one wrong! Personally i'd splice in correct colours to follow loom up to the remote device?

What - the 50mm diaphragm one?

Its always an option to include an in-line thermostat to control flow to the cooler - not often used on race bikes as coolers are usually sized as small as possible just to do the job and no more.

Either will be fine - Cometic do good parts so no problem there and IMO unless compression is a big issue, i'd use the metal shim steel one, purely for the gallery blocking problem (but does take a fair while & use to occur) I thought the problem was particular to the OEM 'paper' gaskets - can't see it being a big issue with the Cometic type!

My understanding is that the Orange output acts as that due to it being connected to battery via the Red at the ign. sw.

Here you go! Whoops - I did have a V&H on there but upgraded to a Star Racing Spyder Pro Pipe - same sort of mounting though!

I had a V&H Pro pipe on the Purple Kat for a while but it had Slingshot rearsets fitted - I might have a pic, i'll look later!

The OP has only had 2 - the original and a duff replacement - the third, he has just ordered. The alternator hook up has to be the simplest bit of wiring on the whole bike - one red, one orange, former to battery and latter split to ign. sw, and fusebox - not much to go wrong there!

Look again - there is a black alloy footrest with a skeleton bracket & brake lever. I'm guessing the master and reservoir are behind the alloy sidepanel !

That's a bit of a retrograde step on Suzuki's part - haven't come across any others where this is a requirement!

Charger between races! - battery is life limited or alternator RR is dead. FYI - don't call a 750 a Kat - it isn't no matter what the US marketing men called it ! It will get you into trouble or banned - your choice!

Lights have no connection with battery charging - check alternator output! Mixing and matching carbs and boots is a minefield - suggest checking Alphasports for part #'s! Why odd boots for the 36's? Only supposed to be two, left and right?

Out of interest - is an overbore allowed?

Any 1100 head - 1052 or 1127, Blandit 1200 or even a DOT 750 head (if you can find one cheap), all will work.

Also I believe the GS750 had a lower primary gear ratio so unless some drastic changes were made to the gearbox ratios, it's likely the engine will be pulling more rev's / mph than a more comparable bike - something to consider!

Care to enlighten us as I've never heard of anyone using anything other than 750 gears even PS engines? Restriction to cam bearings seems daft - saving a cam or rocker at expense of destroying a fully worked cylinder head - bizarre!

That is true - on the back side of the restriction. Upto the point of restriction the pressure will be higher as you are trying to pass an increased volume through a given sized hole in the same time. This is where I have a problem with the H/D studs causing a restriction up the block theory. The gallery feeding oil into the 'stud risers' is metered at the bottom via a jet, the orifice of which is tiny in comparison to the gap between a HD stud and the block stud bore. There should be better oil supply in terms of speed of delivery from start up (not a bad thing) due to reduced volume to fill, but with either stud size, once the void is full of oil, delivery pressure will equalise until the next restriction which is the cam bearing journal. So, in my experience, I haven't seen any increased wear or damage cause purely through use of larger studs and i'm happy to use them in extreme type build engines and if I want more flow I will use external lines!

15/41 is taller gearing than say a standard GSXR1100 which came with 15/48 if my memory is correct! Anything that is less than 3/1 is considered long geared! Are you still using the stock wheels and tyre combination? Smaller dia wheels will lower overall gearing! What do you consider 'screaming its head off' revs as it may be perfectly normal?

Haven't heard of that one - can see how it may work, but a bit too sketchy for reliability IMO!

Where's the rubber gasket? I hope the red shite isn't supposed to be a replacement !

No experience of this other than watching the TT on the gogglebox and those guys manage with separate keys or permanent keys in caps and i'm sure those stops are somewhat more 'frantic' than classic bike racing? A key with a lanyard to the bars is an idea for loosing / dropping it. I'm fairly sure that a screwed cap (for example) would take longer to undo & do up than a key'd cap - something to bear in mind maybe?

I'd be looking at slide diaphragms and springs, maybe needles/emulsion tubes in the carbs but after checking all the std. service items - plugs, leads, coils, valve clearances and air filter. An exhaust leak is unlikely to hurt power significantly - if it sounds like a tractor then maybe!

That did occur to me whilst reading the Googled Translation of the site (good for a giggle!) If the GSXR has 9/10 plates and the 'F' uses 10/11 - it would appear that is the problem as that definitely looks like a steel and fibre short in the stack! And using two of the thick washers isn't a solution so not recommended.

True but there should only be ECU, ignition and fuel pump running presently so maybe 1A + 5A + 8A = 14A which is well within the Alt. capacity (above idle) I believe the GSF Alt. is 350+ watts (28A) output @ 5000 rpm.