Gixer1460

Not seeing that in their blurb! It says narrow or wideband CONTROL ie. of fueling, not how the sensor works. You must have a wiring diagram for fitting it - even if you didn't fit it? A copy / look at that would confirm?

As you have that Tornado ecu, I can't look at the software or the schematics so don't know if it has an internal controller but it would be unusual ie even Motecs rely on standalone controllers and just take the output like any other sensor. This is a wideband lambda? otherwise if it was narrow band ie 1, 2, 3 or 4 wire then it wouldn't have a controller as it generates its own voltage from 0 - 1v only though!

Sounds like an issue with the Lambda controller - I think the Innovate controllers have a diagnostic function to test the sensors but obviously if its the controller thats fubar'd you are in the dark whatever!

Even Lectron Fuel Systems don't recommend use on the road - says a lot IMO.

Well known problem and yes its a case split but you don't have to strip the top end - just drop oil, take clutch out as there are some cross the joint tabs to remove, remove sump and then you can remove the bottom case - maybe some bits i've forgotten! Could be the selector but more likely the gear dogs have rounded off and as they are paired with 5th they'll be usually worn as well! Gears ain't cheap but will be uprated 'M' parts which are undercut. The old gears can be saved by being undercut - best they all get done - makes them fairly bulletproof and positive selection!

4 spring clutch on models up to 'K'

Ah - I see - ok!

Or just swop the signal wires on the coils?

Well you haven't been the most active member for all your 'years' on the site! I think most are to polite to say its a crap idea - so I will ...... its a crap idea!

Stop misleading the masses then LOL! Finned blocks will certainly help but they don't half look weird when compared to a std GSXR block - need surface area which is in short supply unless you want it to look aircooled!

Yes - Warpspeed = 2nd to none machining but would you really want to run a dry block on the street? This is a streetbike (from the piccies?)

You may struggle to find a 'Gorilla' block to take liners that big - APE haven't made them for probably 10+ years. Plus without extra finnage on the block it'll run bloody hot as a streetbike! Personally i'd stick at 80mm turbo pistons and a nice punchy draw through BB turbo with EFI and single throttle body!

Nice but not really necessary. The std pump system can be pushed to 30psi which is ok for a plain bearing turbo and if you use a BB turbo you don't need increased pressure anyway. Dino's should have the turbo behind the cylinders then gravity drain is golden - problems sorted LOL! @ Reinhoud - seriously? They are so oldskool before oldskool was cool! Originally designed to pressurise aircraft cabins back un the 50/60's. They are seriously scarce in A1 condition now and spares are very limited, quite narrow and the lower oil pressure came from the single bearing core so they tend to 'wobble' a bit more. Unless you've got one - I wouldn't go looking for one.

This is a problem using a std ignition system with a radically different configuration of engine! The Blandit ign curve is designed to suit a 'low' comp engine so will probably be a bit retarded around idle and more advanced higher up to compensate. This sounds opposite to what you need! Adding the advancer may help low end but will smoke the engine at high rpm's IMO. So unless you swop out to a Dyna 2000i or similar where you can tailor a better ignition curve, you'll always have to suffer a compromise set-up!

Stu's machinist really has too much time on his hands LOL! Finish on those parts is superb.

Just had a look and it's a shame they don't allow software downloads so you can play before you buy! You might be the only person using this so the learning curve just got Everest like! LOL!

The compression rings are likely shagged out - oil rings do little work so are less likely to wear and hence seal well when your shot of oil was dumped on them! They are designed to scrape oil back down not drain oil from above. Hot or cold is immaterial - you are looking at trends and as recommended pressure is around 170 -190psi (guessing) your's look terminal.

Knew there was something for Starting - cold or otherwise........ https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/megasquirt-startup-tuning/

I understand that Mega squirts are expecting to use GM sensors - if yours isn't then re-calibration will be required. You sure no cold start enrichment - its fairly fundamental to engine operation?

Without sounding too obvious you've got a permanent drain somewhere! Alarms are famous battery killers - I mullered an expensive gel unit when I locked the steering in the park position so the front side light was on - no back lights at the time - and as it was facing a wall I didn't see the tiny glow for 3 months = flat as a sheet of paper ! Out with the multi meter and check draw on each fused circuit.

If the pump has a built in regulator an additional regulator fitting on the fuel rail is surplus to requirements - the pump is designed to work with dead headed injectors. All can be tested under load - just needs a bit of ingenuity! Take injectors and rail out of the TB's and position over 4 measuring jugs / beakers / jam jars. Connect up 12v to the live common feed wire and connect all the switched earths together and ground them out for 20 or 30 seconds. Measure each jars volume in cc's, then add all together, then multiply by 3 or 2 - depending on whether test was 20 or 30 seconds. That gives total flow / minute. Most systems are maximum 80% injector duty so take 80% of your per minute flow and see if it matches or exceeds your required flow for hp expected. Plus if any individual amount varies by 5% get them cleaned - shouldn't vary be more than 1% for accurate fueling!

Nope - looks fine to me!

Sorry to mislead - I was thinking GSX baskets ie. aluminium - usually chewed to buggery! GSXR steel baskets usually mint. A ridged hub can be filed to smooth if really bad but it will usually return.

That did occur to me - touching at 1.5mm and not at 2.0mm means only 0.5mm squish which is about half what it needs to be for a road bike!

You shouldn't need to raise spring load on a road bike, we've used softer springs when racing to induce a degree of slip on launch. What weight have you got on the arms at present? What state is the clutch basket and hub in? If they are a bit notchy then that may start the slip.