Gixer1460

To best of my knowledge, those tubes are cast in to the bodies so you won't find a part number. Bending a new one isn't impossible but the end bends will often kink which makes them useless!

What is? Bolt on sprockets or using ss screws on aluminium without washers? Explain pls?

Tape measure and straight steel bars can check everything - helps if swingarm is fitted. Chalk line on a good flat floor, centre frame over it so headstock and SA centred and square, drop plumb line from headstock bearing / shaft to line, measure from headstock to SA mounts and axle blocks, fitted forks would help show any headstock twist.

I fitted the std. 'M' curved cooler with a R6 fan between the seat frame rails on my 1460 GSXR. Fan wired through relay & thermo switch in sump.

You aren't the majority, you (maybe) are the exception!

Not unusual to see head coolers added if the OEM head cooling lines changed to Goodridge Braided type - everything from small 'token' sized to larger than main have been fitted but few people know what effect they have - just knowledge that additional cooling will be of a benefit plus the extra oil capacity (relatively speaking) is always a bonus. BUT coolers MUST be in airflow so fitting them inside or behind fairings will render them pointless, also your thermostat may be operating at too high a temp . . . . OEM GSXR's were never fitted with thermostats, says Suzuki thought them irrelevant?

Capacity should be cast on a plaque on rear of the cylinder block - usually LHS.

Interesting - my image was from Robinson Foundry BUT was for an 1127 engine whilst yours was 1052 . . . . obvs deleted on the later engines hence confusions!

They do not feature on parts diagrams ! ! ! Hense my earlier reply.

Probably in the Haynes manual.

All good - making a pair of matching gears wasn't clear!

Somewhat agree - the parts fiche and any photo I can find show nothing under the rubber isolators - nor on top! As a ferrule is included within the isolators any securing bolt can only clamp up so far so no further crush can occur, so I think there are extra redundant parts there!

Forgive me here as I know jack about gear cutting but you seem to be planning on cutting a single gear - 1 tooth less than stock? I always thought gears (for any ratio) were made as pairs due to relative geometries ie both are on shafts with fixed separation so changing tooth count on one messes with tooth engagement ?

Interesting - why only 3 times? What is the limiting factor? Costs would be obvious issue but pin and bushing reclaim methods are possible if that is the issue?

If only an AIR cooled engine had a LIQUID cooling system . . . . . it might work ! ! ! I think you need to do a LOT more learning!

I must be thick or blind or both but i'm not seeing the issue here? If the rack is fitted into the rubbers, they should move forward and maybe angle up at the rear so if anything gaps should increase? I'll admit I've never tried this combination but generally, RS's will fit where CV's once resided!

Gotta be the 1st suspect! Just because it's new is no guarantee that it's working correctly! Once that is eliminated, disconnect everything and re connect 1 by 1 with ign. sw. on until fuse pops - then fault find everything on that connection!

Could but respond better with further mods for airflow!

'Horses for courses' . . . . . 10.5k rpm, 4 or 5 times for a few seconds a lap is not the same as 30 - 40 seconds constant load. The rods may not experience 'significant stress' but the loads DO stress related components, particularly the oil / lubrication system. High output engines often suffer rod failure due to either clearance issues and bearing failure or plain oil delivery / pressure loss, leading to catastrophic destruction. I believe rod 'snappage' can be attributed to excess / over revving - generally never an issue with a turbo power adder, nitrous on the other hand is well easy to over power/rev a rod!

NGK or possibly Champion are a go-to for aftermarket plug caps. Generally won't have the oval rubber cover but easy enough to slide the old one off - its only a water shedder so not important to actual ignition running!

For that era, unless you are incredibly lucky and find someone who has a set squirreled away - VERY unlikely - you'll have to use aftermarket and whatever quality it will be! Lucky it's not a performance built so a little slack here & there is ok!

All the liners look to be proud to a greater / lesser degree! Surprised the machine shop never offered to skim / surface the face a) flat and b) perpendicular! Honing angles also look somewhat 'flat' ?

So, effectively a MAF sensor may be a better choice? I know Bosch used a MAF system in a lot of their designs - obvious advantages!

What makes you say that as I respect your thoughts. If taken from one cylinder I'd agree but through a smoothing / balancing tank, it should give stable enough depression for load sensing - don't one of the aftermarket ECU's use MAP to determine cylinder sequencing -same difference?