zman888

I think it might be this part.

Also I just went back and looked and the part called an emulsion tube is the one with the holes in the side that the jet screws into, right? That is a separate part from the part that sticks up and it's undamaged.

I could be wrong but looking at it it appears that it presses in from the bottom, I. E. The part sticking into the barrel is smaller diameter than the part where the jet screws in. So if it does press out I think it has to come out the bottom and I'm worried about damaging the barrel by tapping the top of the emulsion tube(? Didn't know the name of it)

Rebuilding the carbs on my gs1000l. Got I bought it from paid some guy $300 to "clean" the carbs. Well long story short I'm realizing the reason it had a 1-3 misfire was not the points or condensers but the fact that half the jets are clogged as well as the enrichment circuit fuel orifice, I've only done #1 so far but I'm guessing it's the same problem in # 3, and probably mild clogging in #4 as #2 is the hottest header upon starting and trying to warm it up. Anyways, I also figured out why the throttle sticks wide open, which is because there was some damage to #1 slide, a small protrusion that caught on the cylinder edge. Also damage to the bushing that the needle valve goes into. Looks like maybe someone dropped the throttle with a screwdriver in the carb or something. My question though, is that little bit of damage to that "sleeve" if you will going to cause atomization issues with the needle jet? The part that screws in from the bottom (not sure what you call that) is undamaged and the actual "bore" of that sleeve where the needle touches it is undamaged, it's just that little ring that sticks up into the barrel. I pulled off all the loose metal but can't do anything else with it aside from pressing in a new sleeve or a new carb body. span widget

Thanks! I know at a minimum I'll have to remove and reweld the contact box in the correct orientation but it'll be good practice for my new tig skills. I'm just not that familiar with fuel senders, all my previous bikes have had the "look through the filler hole" type of fuel Gauge, so I was unsure if different types of senders use different resistance scales or if it would generally be the same type of signal sent to the Gauge.

I know the E tank is larger capacity but the general shape in the valley of the tank should be identical since it's the same frame, no? I could look for one of those too I guess, although the price of a brand new sidekick sender ($25) vs $100 on Eblag for a prerusted sender has me seriously considering alternative options.

Hi everyone, I've been reading articles on here for a while but finally decided to join today to get some info on fixing up my 79 gs1000l . I picked this up late last fall and am just now getting some time to work on it. So I pulled off the gas tank that was full of pinholes, my plan is to braze the holes and then fill it with vinegar and then line the inside of it. Anyways, pulling off the fuel sending unit I found that there was nothing attached to the inside of it. There weren't any parts in the tank either so a PO must have already taken the pieces out of it. I didn't have much luck searching for a replacement sender but what I noticed is that the sending units for a suzuki sidekick have the same flange on them, just a different angled float for top mount installation. Does anyone know if I can modify one of those units to turn the float the right way and use it on my bike?