jonny1bump

Just checked on fiche bandit is indeed single row.

Think put pics in my build thread, but did it backwards as finished bike the talked about it. Oh well lol.

Lucky they did not snap on you. Have you step in the slide body what the plastics sit on. Fair play on that amount of mileage.

The Suzuki gearbox I'm sure is copy of Villiers design the Kwak gearbox design of this period is so superior.

On my builds I spends hours fettling gearbox makes quite difference. Got feeling mention this in my build thread. Basically first thing I do is shim all that play out of selector drum. (On the stocker there is pusher on the drum). Then I'll die grind selector drum so gear dogs are all equal when in position. Takes hours, Normally spend whole weekend on gearbox. A friend had stock Bandit commuter bike not ridden hard output shaft snapped???? Real budget build so had to repair cases I had shaft I gave him, he was not happy with time I was taken to fettle box, did not go over to top just moderate play. But with end result said felt so much better and smoother and glad I did it.

On drag race engines you can get real good gears from the states I've really forgotten the contact but can find out. Mega money thou and they work in completely different manner as you almost have two gears engaged at same time when you change and it throws the previous gear out. Bad explanation there. I've got got shed loads of spares and Roger undercut loads of gears for me. Once I even had dog snap off that was quite scary experience changing down to find whole transmission locked and pulling in clutch not helping. I'm quite calm person but believe me that was panic moment.

Ian dont forget m and n have double row output bearing I'm sure Bandit has single but I may be wrong here.

Does look cool and brutal, shame top pulley is where you knee needs to be, unless your a tiny jockey.

Yes, well the tiny lithium one I have you certainly have to use the specific charger for it and you cannot let it go flat otherwise will not recover.

Basically the Suzuki gear box is rubbish, the teeth pit terrible and dogs round off.

Had little thought on this again and my bike actually started playing up after only been 5 years old, when started touring and doing long journeys. The battery would cook itself and actually would expand in size. I remember been in Italy and having bump start dam thing and unable to get battery out of the cage. There is definitely design fault inherent as stated before. The big difference now is the fact on top of design fault big majority of bikes have corrosion and lack of maintenance in this department, lets face it the fettled bikes on here are really good, but in reality most are old worn out nails in need of restoration.

Sol your totally right hence why I did my own wiring loom too, don't forget when I wrote this was about 15 years ago so looms had not aged as much as current bikes have. Also my loom was actually in good condition but was seeing voltage drop across ignition switch too. It is a sticky plaster problem but not many people are going to rewire and to be fair, this worked for me for years until I finally pulled my finger out and did it properly. But there is one big point you do have and you must strip loom as much as you can and find all easy wins first, as in block connectors, joints etc. Sort the basics out first. Im forgetting many peeps would not even think about this and jump straight in with the easy fix.

What do they think to your bike, especially after your sand racing result.

Why rev it so high powers tailed off by then. If you want to go that high need to use 750 crank.

Check it dude with multi meter see what your voltage difference is. Not heard of one been ok so far, but another chap on here found missing crimp on main power circuit.

https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/2515

That would spoil a lovely clutch action.

You taken up tree felling all something. Talk about been off topic.

I just recently did valve clearances on friends kwak 600 the tensioner was stuck solid. He has not got time or patience to keep on top of it so got him to buy stock new one. Seen this on Suzuks too. On my own engines always use manual but as said great care needed not to over tighten and need to regular check it as you would on any service, so as much as I would always use them need to look at owner of bike too.

They got different part number looking at Fiche. Suggest go on line and cross reference all different models part numbers see if you get match.

I've been revving 1246 to 11 k for years. Well until it broke To be fair the crank was transplanted to every engine build, it's drag raced, toured and tracked I really can't moan and I was never kind with it. Dunc me and Ray use Chris Applebee. Big waiting list lol.

So sticking old skool.

Been objective it seems buying second hand stick coils ends up been waste of time and cost of new set is actually about same as Dyna mini coils and these are also light in weight and reasonable small. Ok you also need buy set of leads but lead can flex into what ever direction straight away, where as coil on plug stick up little higher and have block connector. I do like idea of stick coil but I feel it's pretty even either way, but also like the mini coils and look of coloured leads.

Nice one Paul im in.

Hub removal tool.