Reinhoud

Screw a bolt into a sparkplug hole (M14 x 1.5) to block a piston, If you'r in doubt, do it with 2 pistons. Then carefully try to undo the bolt. If you still need a lot of force, the try another way...

Just don't!! Do it right, no excuses! Valve clearence is there for a reason!

5.5'' , but with this you need an offset sprocket, anything wider you need to modify the frame

Good question, I had the same issue. I asked the seller, he said it would / should be alright, and 7000km later I haven't had any problems.

Cut the spring, can use a pretty light spring as the boost pushes the valve down. Looks like you connected it wrong too, should be connected to the vacuum points to where you synchronise the carbs / throttle bodies with, because thats the only spot you can get a vacuum, what sucks the valve open when going off throttle.

Aha, I thought every non breaker points ignition have some sort of module. The ones I bought had..

As long as the turbo is above sump level.

Works with a reed valve, like in a 2 stroke engine. Apparently it works alright, I can't find any photo's. Couple of guys in The Netherlands have it like that.

There should be a way that the oil is sucked of via the oil pick up, so you don't need a scavenge pump

Was your Dyna module suspended in rubbers, or bolted to the frame?

It's a GSXR1000 wheel. All done, I didn't do it properly yesterday. Yesterday I pushed te sprocket by hand against the spacer. Today I put the nut on and tighten it properly, that made 5mm difference. Sprocket doesn't come out as far anymore. Frame is modified to allow for the chain.

I ordered a GSXR wheel to match the front wheel, didn't know it was wider.. Looks a bit better, apparently every centimeter counts

I have to be creative with the frame. I already have a plan I was busy aligning the chain, and I noticed it has to come out a bit, almost at the end of the shaft

I'm busy rebuilding my GS1000, I've got a rear wheel of a GSXR1000 K8, 6'' - So the front sprocket needs to come out another 5mm. Now I was wondering, how far can I go out before I start ruining stuff/bearings? Thanks

The 1000 head loves a bit of porting!!

Pretty sure the 1000 has bigger valves

Nice!! Not over the top, I like it!

If I know the angles I can first see if the tubes are bent or not, then I can cut out the damaged parts, get new pipe and bend it and weld it in. You'll be amazed what you can do with an angle gauge, and probably a jig, but first I need the angle before I can do a proper job, or else I need to guess

Still need to know the angles..

I've had an accident with my GS1000, the frame is bend, another frame is not an option, can't find one where I live, having one send over is way too expensive.. Thinking of fixing the frame, but I'd like to know some angles before I make a decision. I'd like to know the angle of both the top tubes, with the angle gauge on. I zero'd the gauge on the bottom tube under the engine. When you have a good look you can see where the frame is bend. The angle in the top tubes already would help, mine is kinked in the bend. Thanks

Does it has the stock timing marks? If yes, use that.

Damn, you would almost be proud of blowing it up like that I had to remove material to allow for the bigger sleeves, therefore the material around a couple of studs is a bit thin, I would think that the cylinder block would rip out the studs. The hard launch I knew, sounds logic. I blew mine up after mis shifting, and f-ing around with the ignition timing, I did accidentaly somthing right. The amount of RPM I'm aware of too, piston speed and the weight of the pistons.

Wow!! I thought somewhere around 300.. Maybe I should give mine more boost then You know what crankcases can handle?

Only halve of the extra stroke

Damn, 493 Katana rods look beefier.. No idea if that's the case.