Reinhoud

Finally, I've finished the crankshaft... All to 0.04mm acurate, new main bearings, new big ends (the last 4 in the world I think ) 493 rods, side clearence on the rods a wee bit more as the minimum clearence according to the manual, straight cut gear.

Ask this man; http://dynoman.net/carb/mikuniRS2.html

Nice work!

I still don't kno what to believe regarding those studs...

Damn, you did that GS1000 nice!

It took a while.... But, today the straight cut gear for the crank came in, so I finally can build my crankshaft

Pictures? Or else we don't believe you have them

I think a GS1000 should have a USD, because it's quite a wide/big/solid looking bike.. At least, that was my idea when I started, solid looking bike, but the wheels, rear and front fork out of ratio.

I've got a home made pipe, 63.5mm all the way, stops before the rear axle.

Rear fork from a Bandit 1200, rear wheel of a RF900, front fork from a ZXR750. Reflectors taken out of the rear end, side covers cut off, and mini (48mm) gauges.

Sprocket welded on the shaft of the gearbox, stock 2nd gear is just pressed on the shaft, but with a lot of power the sprocket slips

All it needs is an USD front fork and a turbo

Was yours jumping out of gear, or was the sprocket slipping over the shaft? I have my 2nd gear welded..

Cool, thanks!

Thanks, I had a DR500 from 1981, worked up to about 55HP, I needed another gearbox about every year, one mis shift was usuallu enough to stuff it up.. That's why I'm a bit insecure about it..

Gents, when going turbo, is an undercut gearbox needed? I didn't have problems before blowing up my engine, done about 3000km with her.. It's a GS1000, estimated 225HP on the crank, before I put the engine together I'd like to know what's wise... Thanks

If you work with torque, don't! If you work with angles, you can, but I wouldn't, because it can come loose because of reduced friction. Just clean it.

Thread works on friction, if you use a grease or whatever, you reduce the friction, when you reduce the friction, and then you torque it at the mentioned setting, you turn the nut/bolt a lot further then it's supposed to be, which can lead to stripped thread, and this is something you have to keep in mind, especially when working with aluminium, also the nut/bolt can come loose. The studs and the nuts may be steel, but the crank case isn't. A lot of people put all kinds of stuff on thread, just clean it and degrease it, and you won't have any problems.

If it fits a GS1000, it'll fit a GS750, again, it will hang a bit lower as on a 1000.

http://dynoman.net/carb/mikuniRS2.html This guy can get you the right boots. Good guy to do business with.

750's and 1000's usually use the same exhausts, on a 750 the exhaust hangs a bit lower because the exhausts are designed to fit a 1000 (these engines have a longer stroke, and therefor are a bit higher)

You're right. Can't remember paying that much for them..

They're not that expensive, are they?

If you have stock pistons, use the OEM, they're good!

Something else, I noticed that after I finished my bike, when my bike is on the side stand, the "arch" of the frame, gap between frame and rear wheel, is quite evenly. Also the curve of the rear tire and the rear end is quite even, it's those little details what makes it look good imo. That's something I noticed afterwards, that happened accidently to be honest. I would mind taking a picture with what I mean, but I think I can't capture that nicely..