Reinhoud

Yep. It's not at 17psi anymore. +8mm forged pistons, I put 493 rods and straight cut primairy gears, also billet clutch basket, 2nd gear is also welded. No idea about the output. When I ride it it's defenitly not slow, but also not overly fast, when I go out riding with my mate and I need to keep up again after some corners (he's a way better rider then me ;) ) I'm behind him again realy quick. https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/3686-gs1000-turbo-attempt-no-2/

They're on E-bay

I've got a Cometic fibre head gasket, and I can go to about 17psi boost without any problems.

I couldn't get them free of leaks also, a fibre gasket will work. Wat size bore? If stock use a stock gasket, they're good!

Like those top hats, not sure what your possibilties are, but you should make them on the spot, where your frame and swinger are present, and make it to fit where a lathe is present.

Because I did had a GS1000 carrier and no carrier for the RF900 wheel, and it fitted.. I took what I got to a motorcycle wreckers and had a look around, took what I liked, and what sort of fitted, or what was able to make it fit

I've got the GS1000 carrier in a RF wheel

That's the idea how I have it too

I did not machine the carrier, but I might have turned the bush down between wheel and carrier to get it closer to the wheel, but I'm not too sure, it's about 13 years ago that I did it. I did let the chain run as close to the rear tyre as possible, 170 tyre, wider is not possible I think. Yes, you need an off set sprocket, I made mine fit by making another spacer behind the front sprocket. Best is to use a laser aligner, you get close with other methodes, but laser is most acurate, put laser on front sprocket. Chain will fit, close, but it fits. If the clutch is a problem, convert it to hydraulic, make yourself a sprocket cover, and be creative. I made the clutch of my 1000 hydraulic

If the GS750 frame, swinger is the same as the GS1000, then it fits, you need to get yourself some spacers. Bandit swinger in 1000 frame, RF900 rear wheel, I needed an off set sprocket.

I've got a front fork of a Kawasaki ZXR750 in my GS1000

You can make bushes, or turn of the pin. Be creative

Isn't it easier to put the GS pin in the Bandit whatyamecallit?

What needs to be measured? If you want to replace it I asume you have a replacement already

I'm pretty sure that some USA models don't have adjustable needles, also they have a plug on the idle air screw

Do you have a welder? Lay a weld on the inside of the race, or weld a bar in the race and tap it out with a bar and a hammer

Ach, of course! Didn't think of that.. I turned the boost dowmn, and advanced the ignition, that makes the bike more agressive, better throttle response. Thing was also what made me doubt, when the clutch was slipping, the engine sounded like it was under a lot of load, and that's usually not the case, but maybe that's because it's a lock up?

Mine didn't slip either.. Yeah, you might be right, I thought I put a bit extra weight on it already.. Better order a gasket and find myself some washers..

I know the solution, was wondering if it happens more often, a good clutch what starts slipping out of the blue. Don't think it can be caused by wear already..

Gentlemen, I've got my bike going for a little while now, it has a lock up clutch, and it all works well. Yesterday when I was out riding a couple of times happened that the engine revved up, first I thought that the back wheel lost grip. It happened at about 120km/h in 5th gear when opening up the throttle. Thing is, I didn't notice anything on the ass end of the bike, no back wheel what stepped aside or a bounce in the seat. The engine sounded like it was working, under load. I'm pretty sure it came from the clutch, because when I give it to her in 3rd and 4th the rear wheel doesn't lose grip, it was just a bit in 5th. Usually when a clutch starts slipping the engine revs up and sounds like it's not under load. Does it happen more often with lock up clutch that they start slipping after a while? And with a lock up, does the engine sound different with a slipping clutch as with a normal clutch? Clutch plates are only 6000km old. Thanks

Didn't read any replies, are the tapers the same? Loctite and 125Nm, if I'm correct If you want to tighten the nut/bolt properly you have to block the crank somehow, never trust an air ratchet to give the wanted torque

By the way, are you aware of the unwritten rule, that as the head comes off, you also need a high compression big bore kit?

You know that this sort of stuff is usually best availably from the US of A?

Did you notice more power? I didn't realy, but that instant throttle response... oh mai.. Ran nicer too