Reinhoud

That carbie, does the slide run over bearings? Slide in 2 parts? I had a 42mm carby, Mikuni used on Harleys, on my DR500, awesome carbies, ran really well, that acceleration pump works well too.

With this setup with supercharger, is the power coming in like normal, but a lot more? I understand that when you use such through turbochargers the powerdelivery is more like a 2 stroke..

You always need the parts just after you sold them...

Not the pump, the gears. I've got the gear on the pump if you need one, the gear behind the clutch is harder to come by, not cheap when you buy it new either.

Yeah, that's what I mean, I think the GS1000 with shaft drive have them, probably other models too, but I don't know which ones

A head from a GS1000G is a good option, these bikes have the 34mm CV carbies from factory

When you use HD studs you don't have to use top end oiler, you can drill up the hole in the cylinder block and the head partly, 1.5 bigger is sufficient according to my calculations

HD studs is also recomended, 12.9 bolts around the crank on the bottom of the crankcase.

You also can raise the oil pressure a little by making a restrictor in the oil way towards the gearbox, under the oil pressure light pick up cover

I forgot something, plenum needs to be at least 2 times the displacement of the engine

Yeah, but easy to fix, take an artist brush and liquid gasket, and smear it around the liners.

Low comp forged pistons Ball bearing turbo, I've got a VF20, seems to be good enough. GSX1100 carbies, GS1000 are slide carbies GSX1100 clutch basket, you have to take about 7 or 8 mm of to make it fit in a GScrankcase Use GS750 oil pump gears to get more revs, not sure what width the GS1000 oil pump is, if it's 10mm, there is a 14mm oil pump what fits I build mechanical oil pumps for turbo feed and drain. If you go electric scavenge you probably need a stator/dynamo what has more output then the stock one Welded crank is a must, and don't go over 180hp, it should be alright till about that, if you want more you need stronger rods (I've got 493 Katana) Twin spark works wonders preventing detonation I noticed, reasonably easy to do yourself if you have a mill available, but you need 4 x 1.5 Ohm coils and Dyna 2000 ignition, with the ignition set at the stock setting till at least 7 psi no detonation If you keep the stock bore the stock head gasket will do I guess, if you go big bore the Cometic fibre ones will do. Don't try f#ck around with copper ones Weld second gear of the gearbox I was told that if you stay below somewhere about 180 crank HP, the internals should be able to handle it

I torque my GS1000 to 40Nm, that's a bit more as what the specs say, but goes alright. I don't think a GSX will be much different.

The weird thing is; of all the start up problems I had with my project, all the home made stuff worked very well, and that was actually the thing I thought I might have getting troubles with..

Wie ben jij op MF? Je vergeet koppig. It's still just a scavenge pump.. The pump on the bottom plate is the turbo feed, the pump on the side is the scavenge. It was a genuine question, I heard about it, and sounds like a legit thing, gravity drain vs sucking the oil out of the turbo, would it make a difference?

Nah, real simple, make a breather in it so there's no "vacuum" anymore.

Yes it can, mine drops it in the tank, from there it's sucked out of the tank.

I was told that sucking the oil out of the turbo isn't too good, that the oil needs to drain from the turbo by gravity. Therefore I made a breather in my little catch tank. It works alright. Has anyone else heard about this?

Bike is running. The wiring still needs to be finished, fired up straight away, looks like there is a minor oil leak, I think the starter motor.. No excesive smoke or vibrations, runs reasonably well actually, haven't had a ride yet, but on the driveway the engine feels very torquie. Carburetors need to be synchronized, and I want to check the ignition timing between cylinders 1/4 and 2/3.

Looks like the purple wire activates the retard mode. When I hold the strobe on it the timing moves a bit when I ground the purple wire.

I'm pretty sure it's set right..

I'm pretty sure I've got the old one, the white wire goes to one of the coils. I was thinking of 8 degrees retard, 4 is the minimum, 8 is the next step up. I have a stroob to check ignition timing.

I read somewhere that the puple/violet wire is for the retard, Is this true? If yes, how come my manual says it's the orange wire?

Why pressurize the tank? There's no pressure in it when in use. Use electrolisis to get rust out of the tankk, it's slow but works realy well.

Gents, I've got my bike running, but when I set the ignition on the retard mode and I connect the orange wire to groud the engine dies. This is what happened the first time when I had it turbo'od too, back then I thought I might have connected the wrong wire. I did read the manual, it says the orange wire is normally the side stand safety switch, but when set on retard mode, it should retard the ignition when it is grounded, but with mine it still works as the side stand safety thingy, I think.. Am I doing something wrong? Or something wrong with my CDI? My knowledge regarding electronics is very limited, so I thought I better ask before I wreck it it completely. Thanks