Reinhoud

I didn't had them for long, a circlip for the piston pin came out, and after that I had a change of plan. I sold them with the carburetors.

Nah, I found the problem, the 140 jets are Keihins, the rest are Mikuni's

i had to buy another set of needles for my RS'es. Not sure if anyone else had to do that.

That's the head I meant. Looove the throttle response of the RS'es

I didn't like the bar end mirrors, so I took some round bar and made stalks so I can still use the mirrors, but in a different way. First I had them on top of the handle bar, looked alright, more in style with the bike, but all I saw were my arms, so I put them below the handle bar, doesn't look as good as on top, but I can live with it. Vision is quite alright now. Retarded the ignition a bit, detonation seems to be gone, AFR seems to be alright too, now I've got another problem once of a sudden, the plenum is blown off no when the turbo builds up boost quick, boost comes up quick and over 15 psi. So, still not done..

It lifts it frontwheel in the first 3 gears, but that's it. Yeah, it sounds alright, also not too loud

The AFR with 140 main jets was 13, I put 142.5 jets in it, mixture was way to rich, that rich that it didn't run propperly on boost, the AFR was lower as 10. I have a suspicion that one or both sizes jets might be off, I think I can see that the 142.5 bores are larger then the 140 bores, this should be minimal and not noticable with the naked eye, I think. I dropped the needles 1 groove, straight away the highest groove, the AFR on the needles look alright now. Tomorrow the 140 jets go back in, and have another look. Also retard the ignition a couple of degrees, so she's finaly done. I've alse read in the past that the pitot tubes can cause a rich or lean mixture, no clue what can cause what.

The GS1000 with the CV carburetors, these are 34mm, these rubbers will fit, but they're not cheap!! I paid over 200AUD for a set. The RS will fit these heads. So if you have the model with slide carbies, the easiest way is to install the head of a later model with CV carbs.

I had them on my GS1000, I had to make adaptors on the head to make the carbies fit. I hardly noticed a gain in power, the throttle response was a hell of a lot better!!

I had an AFR of 13, I ordered one size up from what I had in, but I put the next step up I had available, and they were too big, AFR is 10 with the jets I have in now. New jets come in next monday, hopefully. Mail is bloody slow here, from the mainland to Tasmania usually takes a week.

Am I correct that with a richer mixture the turbo spools up quicker and keeps a more stabile boost? Or is my bike breaking in? I put bigger jets in it and the boost gauge jumps to the max once of a sudden...

You can see on the head itself where the short and long ones go.

Still busy fine tuning, goes very slow. It's winter, I can do about 1 test run a day. During the day the sunlight is too bright, can't read my AFR gauge, and when it's getting dark the wallabies come out, you don't want to hit one of them with 160km/h on the clock. For some reason the turbo cranks out more boost now, it jumps to 15psi in the blink of an eye, bike goes very well. It still has detonation, first get the right jet size before I start fidling with the ignition timing. AFR was 13, put bigger jets in it, now it's 10.. About to order some jets, unfortunally the bike shops don't stock them. The rear brake starts playing up, it seized, when I loosen the bleed nipple everything is alright again.. It looks like I can't adjust the ignition retard, looks like that whatever number I put it on, the retard stays the same..

Hold the carbs up side down and blow through the fuel line, if you can blow through one of the float needles is leaking.

Look at your head, you should be able to see where the short one, and where the long ones go.

Boost controller came in last week, installed it and had a test ride.. Turbo is cranking out about 12 psi at the moment, I think this is about the max what this little turbo can give. Bike is fast enough I think, there are no straight roads here, I'm pretty happy with the power it cranks out, maybe if I can find an afordable VF23 or 22 one day I'll get it. Bike does suffer detonation with the boost raised with the ignition retard set on 4 degrees. I had a good quality 95 octane petrol in the tank. I tried 98 octane from a iffy service station, the only servo what sells 98, there is a difference, but not much! So I'm going to tune it that it runs well on 95. That iffy servo is the only servo what sells 98 everywhere, but my car runs like crap on that brand and uses a lot more fuel as with the top brands. Because the ignition retard jumps from 4 to 8 degrees I'm going to test how the bike runs on 8 degrees retard but with the ignition advanced a few degrees, so I have 6 degrees retard on boost. Because every degree I do not have to retard is good. Bike runs better with the ignition advanced.

Oh, you're going to like it!! Power comes outy of the tank.. My GS1000 did use 17 liters of pertol doing 70km and a dyno run..

https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gsx750_model13694/ Tried the Suzuki dealer?

Yes sir

That's the chart I meant.

Thanks. There's a chart on the net for the VF turbo's, but for some it doesn't hold information, like the one I have..

Ah thanks. I did read that the 22 is an upgrade from the 23, that's why I asked, not familiar with the numbers, I have the impression that a higher number not necessarirly means it's a bigger turbo...

Is the VF22 bigger than the VF23?

I've got a VF20 from a Subaru Legacy (primairy turbo), it's a small one on 1245cc, mine is only running 7psi at the moment, and for that this turbo is alright, I don't know yet what it does when I raise the boost, still waiting for my boost controller. I had a TD5 16 G (EVO III) this turbo started to get boost at about 4500rpm, it had full boost at 5500rpm. The VF20 hit's 7psi in the blink of an eye when it hits 4000rpm I have no idea how the VF20 relates to TD numbers

Yes there is. It works like a normal tap, just without the vacuum. I must say, like a normal tap if you do it properly, mine drips when on the off postion...