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Everything posted by Duckndive
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Not the roman candles you seam to think they are .... I,ve ran two road bikes with them with no issues as have many others
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Draw Thru's have always used a Carbon Sealed Whizzer that's why the Rajay was so popular along with the fact they dont need much oil pressure 200bhp was / is possible with a Rajay....you just put a big spring in the gate and hang on
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Given it was on a Rajay, Tractor Carb, 4star its still a good no.. Wee Mans is also a Blow thru oil boiler so not a direct comparison You also need to ride a DrawThru to appreciate the adrenalin rush when it boosts is unlike anything else
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Yes it was wrote by RevsHotClutch ......."if you know you know"
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HELP REMOVING SRAD FRONT WHEEL
Duckndive replied to NickGP's topic in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
If a single Hex socket don't work "which it should" Get a Nut welded to the spindle and then use a socket on that -
Yes Headstock is same as Blandit but wider at the swingarm pivot
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there's a faceache group Suzuki GSX 750 Inazuma GB i can email the German one if it helps
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is there an autojumble as well ?
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i have a a factory manual they pop up on ebag i also have a PDF of the German 1200 Zuma manual
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They are his 1st design as are the solenoids so possibly not available anymore....are they same as these ones ? ...as I only have the pair
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Personally and speaking as someone who is not a track day genius But it takes more skill to hustle a 600 round quick than it does a 180bhp thou .... I did a corporate track day "car" in 1lt Hotted up stripped out Fiesta on 5" wide wheels and control tyres it was an absolute hoot far more fun than anything else i drove that day
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Well the stock ones were #uc#ed and had them kicking about there 330mm eye to eye But Richard Hocking @gsxr884 can supply aftermarket ones at various lengths at good prices
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I fitted GSX 1400 Shocks
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The 32s on a 1200 are different carbs to the 750 ones But as you say they do work
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I'm assuming you had the plate laser or water jet cut ? If so who did you use ?
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With the cover off you should be able to see if the clutch is operating when you pull the lever in .... Did you soak the fibre plates in oil overnight before assembly
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Given your location "Norway" your bike is most likely fitted with the "restricted" lower power cams "as were most European models" so a simple upgrade would be a pair of full power stock cams or "D" marked cams as they are often referred to
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Is that one from Tomaz on Faceache ?
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you also need to consider if the matching front wheel etc will fit your front end
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dont Bandit ones need to see a resistor or something in the switch / loom i,ve used 750 ones on 1100,s just shift early as the limit its higher
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Its not that simple its a very wide arm that needs extensive work to narrow ... i,m not a fan off single side arms but as others have said a Durapi or VFR are better options
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Yeap there the one's Joe Marshall talked about on faceache
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Robinsons are aside from Suzuki UK an official importer Fowlers get there parts from the above
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The EFE crank in my 1400cc motor has been 9.15 @ 168mph with 20psi into a T4 using an S&S carb and race gas when i swopped the 3 speed out for a stock box and removed the turbo kit its mint personally i think kat rods are over kill for a street motor even doing the work your self with straight cuts and bearings that's a 2K crank