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Chain stretch perhaps? Mine wasnt 100% flush either. Somewhere in between yours and completely straight. Compression is good and the bike runs like it should so not to fussed about it

The whole assembly or just the foot pegs?

This is with the crank at TDC. I've tried everything to figure it out and haven tried to counter it by putting the cams in advanced with the crank slightly retarded. No matter what I do, this is the result.

Mine are just slightly retarded. Maybe say half a cam chain link.

I've thought about getting the Factory Pro detent arm and stiffer spring. If it's not the actual trans this is said to help make shifts cleaner. It's a '90 1127R motor with the stock '86 750 shift linkage but the clutch push rod from the '90 1127R.

It's a '90 1127R motor in an '86 750 frame with the stock linkage from the '86 750 but the clutch push rod from the '90 1127R.

Will do. It is more difficult to shift into 2nd gear than the rest. It's also just generally more difficult to upshift period. Downshift seems normal.

Second gear tends to get the most abuse... 1-2 shift power wheelies etc The dogs on the gear's wear and then wont hold under power .. Later box's had a better undercut and are less prone to the damage .. But as Tony said check the linkage is smooth 1st and fully moving the shift shaft

have you got a gear linkage on your bike ? if so make sure thats free and smooth before you delve into the engine.

So of course the donor motor for my 7/11 has a wonky 2nd gear. I know I will have to fix it. That being said... Basically runs great but when in 2nd it will do a neutral like lull and then surge and rest of 2nd is normal. The lull/surge happens within less than a second. Maybe half a second. Doesn't fully pop out of gear. Tach is also acting up but I would have to guess it happens around 5k rpm with casual acceleration. Does anyone have any experience with these symptoms and what it ended up being more precisely? Just curious about others experiences with it and what it was. Have done a lot of searching but the actual damage is rarely covered.

Thanks, makes it clearer to understand. Just tested coil inputs at plug connector with ignition on, not cranked engine. 12V on both coils orange/white. No volts on Left coil signal connection, 0.5 volts on Right coil signal connection. I will disconnect signal generator and cdi igniter and continuity test wires between each component to test the loom and connectors. Will also clean each wiring connector. Don't want to test anything on signal generator or cdi as I don't know how to test them and don't want to destroy any components. Thanks

If there is not air leak, popping & banging in the exhaust usually indicates too rich, spitting back through the carbs as they open indicates too lean.

My GS1000 with 1247 big bore didn't want run properly on carbs from a 750, put carbs on it from an 1100 and it ran fine

Oh believe me I've been blipping it little and blipping it big without it helping. Going for neutral while it's in motion sometimes works

I only did the sync as it was quicker than the valves & it was cold in my garage.. all plugs are on vac ports - inlets are new & can't see any issues. Idle is a bit wooly up & down when it gets farty sometimes stops at nice rpm and then up a bit. I'm onto the valves next weekend.

Ideally valve clearances are checked and set before carb sync is undertaken. Assuming you have no vacuum leaks at the boots and as you are using a pingle tap, all vacuum take off ports on the carbs should be plugged off too. Assuming everything is ok internally with the carbs and your jetting is very very close if not bang on, then popping on decel is normal. Any popping/farting at idle Could be air leak related and or carb sync. Is the idle smooth or does it flactuate when popping then drop off then rise then settle etc?

Is the saunders fairing a bit like an Endurance one with one headlight. Not sen one of these frames before so build is going to be interesting to follow

It does it on over run which I'm quite happy with. But the idle erratic burbly farting (can't call it backfiring) & it's sometimes worse than other times, makes me think balance/valve clearance/ or leaks at exhaust to head? (Inlets are new). I've just noticed my victory in fitting the bsr carbs has shallowed a bit, as the middle synch screw is pretty inaccessible, but I now have vac take offs on both the carbs & the intakes. Think in going for the intake ones first. But rain is stopping here now, so set balance & it's a little better. Going to ride it before any more tinkering. But new valve cover gasket & exhaust gaskets on order for next weekends fun. Pick up response it much improved over dinosaur carbs!

What Gixer1460 said, plus "continuity" in this case is a small resistance, usually 3-5 ohms, which is enough not to be a dead short. With 12V it will draw 4 Amps and it's pulsed, so not on all the time.

The 'signal' wires ground out the coils to collapse the primary magnetic field and induce a mega voltage in the secondary whose only path to ground is through the spark plug.

you do get a certain amount of popping in an exhaust on carb'd bikes on the over run, but its masked by the standard exhaust so its hard to here, but on a free flowing exhaust its more noticeable.

In case you don't - a little blip of throttle whilst moving the gear lever, or moving the gear lever whilst still moving, will usually allow neutral selection. Basically either will 'unload' the clutch to allow easier movement - 101 big bike operation manual LOL!

Yes valve clearances are after a quick balance check/adjust today. I've not had exhaust off it - so I'm doubting the exhaust gaskets. It was a little poppy farty before I started all the mods, but ran fine once off idle. May well be valves, as I've done a lot of changes & it's flatulence is still there. Or it's just a characteistic of an old v&h empty 4 into 1?

Syncing the carbs might help your popping if they are still quite out after bench syncing. Might be worth checking valve clearances of you haven't already before syncing carbs. Do you mean the exhaust gaskets you haven't checked? Could cause popping if leaking a little.