Karst34 Posted December 10, 2017 Author Posted December 10, 2017 Hello does anyone know iff the gsx1100f exhaust front pipes fit to the EFE engine? Quote
arnout Posted December 13, 2017 Posted December 13, 2017 On 04/12/2017 at 10:17 PM, Karst34 said: What are the dimensions of the stock oil cooler? Then I can look for alternatives, Thanks in front for the info Guys About 220x90 mm so quite small, but it seems you're now looking at larger (Chinese?) coolers? The oil lines + fittings are actually usually more expensive than the cooler, but copied Chinese fittings are cheaper too. Anyway.. The larger the oil cooler the greater the need for an oil thermostat, BUT not many people actually install these on their modified engines.. (Too cumbersome? Cannot be bothered? No space?) There is in fact limited space to fit such an oilstat (I mostly used Mocal OT/1 stats), so for my Kat I thought I'd better look for a tidier solution this time around. It took some trial&error with oil leaks due to welding porosity but I'm now using an oil filter plate with an incorporated oilstat. 4 Quote
Arttu Posted December 14, 2017 Posted December 14, 2017 8 hours ago, arnout said: There is in fact limited space to fit such an oilstat (I mostly used Mocal OT/1 stats), so for my Kat I thought I'd better look for a tidier solution this time around. It took some trial&error with oil leaks due to welding porosity but I'm now using an oil filter plate with an incorporated oilstat. Nice! Care to tell a bit more about that? What oilstat element you are using etc? I assume it just opens bypass channel when oil is cold? Quote
arnout Posted December 14, 2017 Posted December 14, 2017 16 hours ago, Arttu said: .. I assume it just opens bypass channel when oil is cold? Well.. it is normally open, so when the waxstat heats up and extends it pushes the piston down to close off the bypass. Very simple design. I wasn't sure though if the always open connection with the oil cooler would work as in theory it still allows a large part of the oil to flow through the cooler when the bypass is open. But it seems the extra resistance of the cooler and lines (and perhaps gravity) has most of the oil indeed flow through the bypass. The oil cooler does stay cold until the engine temp reaches about 85 deg. C. proving the concept. I anodised the aluminium piston (purple) to harden the surface and hopefully prevent wear on the housing also in aluminum (part cut from GSX-R swingarm). Had a pinhole leak in the first attempt and so tried to weld it shut. That was a big mistake as the aluminium was obviously contaminated with oil by now. Lots of grinding, rewelding and cleaning later I sealed the remaining pin holes with Loctite 290. Also planned to install a fan on top of the B12 oil cooler, but took that off again when I found out I had miscalculated the available distance to the mudguard.. Will look for 1 or 2 suitable flat (computer) fans instead, but there is little need for those with the current stock EFE engine really. 1 Quote
Arttu Posted December 15, 2017 Posted December 15, 2017 Thanks for the drawing! What waxstat unit you are using? I have been also wondering if there would be still too much flow through cooler when the bypass is open but apparently not. Thanks for confirming. Getting aluminium welds completely sealed can be a bitch sometimes. I had similar incident with a swingarm that was supposed to work as air tank. So even without any oil involved. Perfectly looking seam had some invisible void leaking air slowly. Ground it back properly and laid new good looking seam over it. Still leaks. Repeated half dozen times until I gave up and used some epoxy glue to seal it Quote
Gixer1460 Posted December 15, 2017 Posted December 15, 2017 Got to say that is an incredibly neat solution. Welding cast alloy is always hit or miss - inclusions or porosity - PITA. Maybe with a little adaptation and addition of some lugs & o-rings it could be made 'bolt-on' ? Quote
arnout Posted December 15, 2017 Posted December 15, 2017 (edited) 15 hours ago, Arttu said: Thanks for the drawing! What waxstat unit you are using? I have been also wondering if there would be still too much flow through cooler when the bypass is open but apparently not. Thanks for confirming. Getting aluminium welds completely sealed can be a bitch sometimes. I had similar incident with a swingarm that was supposed to work as air tank. So even without any oil involved. Perfectly looking seam had some invisible void leaking air slowly. Ground it back properly and laid new good looking seam over it. Still leaks. Repeated half dozen times until I gave up and used some epoxy glue to seal it Ouch.. What waxstat? Uhmm.. lemme get the box. "JP Group - Thermex 1114601210 bladibla Thermostat with seal 87 C". Probably for some random middle range car. Dunno, I just wanted a cheap thermostat to harvest the waxstat from. It was cheap, and even got a further reduction when I explained my plans.. You CAN get just the separate waxstats, but only in bulk quantities. At least, that's what I found at the time. As for the welding.. The first time around welding actually went fine (apart form the pinholes obviuosly). Only the heat made it difficult to hold on to the torch even with thick gloves. Aluminium needs a lot of it and you really need a watercooled torch for tight spaces and continuous welding. 12 hours ago, Gixer1460 said: Got to say that is an incredibly neat solution. Welding cast alloy is always hit or miss - inclusions or porosity - PITA. Maybe with a little adaptation and addition of some lugs & o-rings it could be made 'bolt-on' ? During the work and especially lateron during the fixes I concluded that it would have saved me a lot of time and swearing if I'd started off with solid stock/fresh material. So next time (if there is one) it will either be made from 1 solid piece or at least a solid plate as a starting point. Difficult bit with that will be machining the rubber seal seat though. A bolt on design could work too in theory I guess, but you'd still need to drill some oil passages in the exact right positions, AND weld in the "blocking" bit if you cannot find an EFE oil filter cover. Oh.. @ Karst34, Sorry for hijacking your thread! Edited December 15, 2017 by arnout forgot a bit Quote
Arttu Posted December 16, 2017 Posted December 16, 2017 11 hours ago, arnout said: What waxstat? Uhmm.. lemme get the box. "JP Group - Thermex 1114601210 bladibla Thermostat with seal 87 C". Probably for some random middle range car. Dunno, I just wanted a cheap thermostat to harvest the waxstat from. It was cheap, and even got a further reduction when I explained my plans.. Ok, so just get any random thermostat, gut it and adapt the design to suit it Just thought that maybe you were using parts from some commercial oilstat... Quote
Karst34 Posted December 16, 2017 Author Posted December 16, 2017 On 15-12-2017 at 10:17 PM, arnout said: Ouch.. What waxstat? Uhmm.. lemme get the box. "JP Group - Thermex 1114601210 bladibla Thermostat with seal 87 C". Probably for some random middle range car. Dunno, I just wanted a cheap thermostat to harvest the waxstat from. It was cheap, and even got a further reduction when I explained my plans.. You CAN get just the separate waxstats, but only in bulk quantities. At least, that's what I found at the time. As for the welding.. The first time around welding actually went fine (apart form the pinholes obviuosly). Only the heat made it difficult to hold on to the torch even with thick gloves. Aluminium needs a lot of it and you really need a watercooled torch for tight spaces and continuous welding. During the work and especially lateron during the fixes I concluded that it would have saved me a lot of time and swearing if I'd started off with solid stock/fresh material. So next time (if there is one) it will either be made from 1 solid piece or at least a solid plate as a starting point. Difficult bit with that will be machining the rubber seal seat though. A bolt on design could work too in theory I guess, but you'd still need to drill some oil passages in the exact right positions, AND weld in the "blocking" bit if you cannot find an EFE oil filter cover. Oh.. @ Karst34, Sorry for hijacking your thread! No problem mate we all can learn from this, Nice job Quote
Karst34 Posted December 20, 2017 Author Posted December 20, 2017 Morning, I have most off the parts now, got me an original oil-cooler and A RVS Laser performance exhaust system, I will put my yoshi pipe on it, I shortened it A bit to get rit of damage, polished it up, needs A 2nd session but looks good allready. The aprilia tuono Rims will come round Christmas. So januari will start building up keep you Guys updated some pics of the exhaust: 1 Quote
Blower1 Posted December 20, 2017 Posted December 20, 2017 (edited) I made oil stat by bolting it to filter cover. All oil is by-passing cooler before oil temperature goes over +85 C. Edited December 30, 2017 by Blower1 2 Quote
Karst34 Posted February 25, 2018 Author Posted February 25, 2018 Been bussy, but it is comming together with help from Jerryt cheers Karst 8 Quote
pambos1127 Posted February 25, 2018 Posted February 25, 2018 Hello karst nice project,you will not put the ohlins forks? Quote
Karst34 Posted February 25, 2018 Author Posted February 25, 2018 1 hour ago, pambos1127 said: Hello karst nice project,you will not put the ohlins forks? Thanks! the ohlins was from the previous owner, but the T-piece wasn’t straight so he sols it with the wheels..so I got aprilia rsv front fork (Nice black) and wheels, I think they will do the job 1 Quote
Karst34 Posted July 30, 2018 Author Posted July 30, 2018 Some updates finaly.. got the gsxrw carbs fitted, and had A look with the katana fairing? What do you Guys think? 1 Quote
arnout Posted July 31, 2018 Posted July 31, 2018 3 hours ago, Karst34 said: Some updates finaly.. got the gsxrw carbs fitted, and had A look with the katana fairing? What do you Guys think? I'm a bit of a purist with regards to keeping original models recognizable. Mods are fine, upgrades even better, but I think a Kat should always ook like a Kat, an ET like an ET, and an EFE should only have EFE bodywork. If not, an old zook looses its roots and identity. But then again, this is YOUR bike, so whatever you think looks cool/good is fine. I see you haven't fitted (found?) an oilcooler or oilstat yet, so no decisions on that front? Also on earlier progress.. The swingarm angle looks pretty steep. That's fine, but have you checked the amount of chain drag on top of the swingarm is acceptable? Or perhaps you have already moved the position of the swingarm pivot to compensate? Also.. I like the look and detailing on the rearsets/pegs, but they seem positioned uncomfortably far back? Quote
nlovien Posted July 31, 2018 Posted July 31, 2018 as yir asking - not so sure myself, at risk of it looking like a parts bin special with too many bits obviously from trade mark bikes - getting them to work together will be a challenge great project - liking the approach , although a well tried and tested combo - my thoughts would be more along the lines of an Eddie Lawson / Wes Cooley style cockpit - Quote
R1guy Posted July 31, 2018 Posted July 31, 2018 1 hour ago, nlovien said: as yir asking , at risk of it looking like a parts bin special with too many bits obviously from trade mark bikes - This. fork out for a 9” lamp and you won’t go far wrong. The rest of the bike looks perfect Quote
Blubber Posted July 31, 2018 Posted July 31, 2018 I would switch the kat fairing for a EFE one. I have got one you can try for size / looks. Located near Amsterdam / Haarlem if interested. Quote
manden Posted August 4, 2018 Posted August 4, 2018 On 11/24/2017 at 8:22 PM, Karst34 said: A Vance-hines, is there anyone that has one on his bike? 495 pound at grumpy1260performance On an gsxr 1100 slabside Quote
Karst34 Posted March 16, 2019 Author Posted March 16, 2019 Been a while since I posted, but definitely made some progress It runs on all 4 asswel after about 10 years 5 Quote
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