Ultimate road GSXR1100L engine

[Wagola]

Hi knowledgeable ones,

Right , just been having a think about jobs for the winter and got to thinking about dropping the engine out of the Harris to do the valve clearances. Then I thought that while its out what else needs doing. Then I thought why not refresh the whole engine and get the bits together to build an 'ultimate' rod going engine. Not really interested in top end bias as its for the road and going in a Harris ,so no wind protection. I was thinking 6 speed box ? Mikuni RS36/38's ? Head looks to be flowed already and reported to have a 1216cc kit in there. I think I've read somewhere about fitting a GSXR750 head ? Dyna ignition ? Stick coils ? You know the sort of thing. Just throwing it out there for some ideas and discussion.

Thanks All. 

[Gixer1460]

If its road biased and not all top end, you are looking for torque - big bore good for that also head work as airflow and cylinder filling = torque. Personally i'd stick with RS36mm carbs and throw some Kent stage 1 cams at it and you be looking at mid 155's HP and nice torque. Forget a 6 speed - no need to keep engine boiling if you have pull! If its got a 1216 kit, it should have compression and so a DOT head will be too much. Good coils - bonus and Dyna 2000i IF you need ignition adjustment, stick coils bring nothing to the party so save money.

[Wagola]

Hi, thanks for the reply. And yes it will be road biased. Looks like I need to drop the engine to find out exactly what is in there. I didn't think converting to 6 speed would be worth it and I already have Dyna coils but stock ECU. I wasn't thinking of cams either so will put a set on my shopping list, along with some RS36's. I'll check the compression this week to give me an idea if it does have a 1216cc kit in there and see if its a good engine. cheers.

[Solcambs]

My understanding is that the best gains come with capacity, compression, porting (L & M already have tall ports, so it's a clean up exercise. and less work), Cams, exhaust and  Carbs. . Larger valves unneeded up to 1216 as they flow enough already.  High compression 1216 with dyna coils, flatslides, porting, and a good exhaust = 150 rwbhp.

[Wagola]

Hi, thanks for the reply. Seems to be pretty much what I have already apart from the flatslides.  But they are on my shopping list now.

[El Gringo]

My 1100L ended up 1216'd, Piper Cams, RS38s, Ported and Devcon'd Head with oversized inlets, Akra system, Dyna Coils and a mildly lightened and balanced crank, was knocking on the door of 148-150hp but with nearly 90ftlb of torque from low down (i'll have to have a look at the dyno printout to see where) 

That was with some very ballpark out of the box jetting so with a bit of setting up i expect a bit more.

It's hilarious to ride but relatively civilised unless you want it to be lairy

[badger]

i had a 1216 and ported head with rs36s. Was a rad set up!

[Gixer1460]

5 hours ago, Solcambs said:

(L & M already have tall ports) 

L has screw and lock nut tappets - M has shim adjustment.

Only the M and N's have the revised port shape and it's not radically different to the K or L's

[Solcambs]

5 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

L has screw and lock nut tappets - M has shim adjustment.

Only the M and N's have the revised port shape and it's not radically different to the K or L's

 

Indeed ... M&N - it's terrible getting older and having your memory fail you ;o)

[nlovien]

also got a 1100L in my Harris - I often pondered over tuning the engine and found a great set up, spent my money at maxton on one of their shocks and a front fork revalve = recon it was worth an extra 50 hp  - a good std 1100L has more than enough ponies for me to push a light harris up hills - apologise if this comes across as a smary post, I love tuning engines but things like Harris framed bikes go faster when you focus on suspension and set up

Edited June 14, 2017 by nlovien

[Gixer1460]

Or diet, lose 10kg = save money, eat less, go faster! Honestly, losing all the extraneous crap bolted to a bike and being weight conscious with stuff you add is usually a lot cheaper than buying HP 

[Wagola]

1 hour ago, nlovien said:

also got a 1100L in my Harris - I often pondered over tuning the engine and found a great set up, spent my money at maxton on one of their shocks and a front fork revalve = recon it was worth an extra 50 hp  - a good std 1100L has more than enough ponies for me to push a light harris up hills - apologise if this comes across as a smary post, I love tuning engines but things like Harris framed bikes go faster when you focus on suspension and set up

That's a fair point. I already have an Ohlins rear shock that will be going away for a recondition over the winter. Also got a GSXR1000 K1/K2 front end with Harris yokes that will also be going in over the winter, unless an Ohlins front end comes along at the right price. Just wanted to see what was the general thought on engine spec, looks like I have pretty much what is needed apart from some nice carbs.

[Wagola]

1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:

Or diet, lose 10kg = save money, eat less, go faster! Honestly, losing all the extraneous crap bolted to a bike and being weight conscious with stuff you add is usually a lot cheaper than buying HP 

Yeah, I get that as well. And the leather jacket does seem to be getting a bit tighter now. As far as the bike goes, nothing that isn't needed will be going back on and trying to get lighter versions of what is essential.

[Oilyspanner]

That Harris sounds good, any photos ? - Slingshots lost their way with weight, my 1100N being the worse (like the M) - but there's many areas that can lose weight, I spent a year making ally braces, brackets, spacers, fitting lighter headlight, lithium battery, lighter clip-ons  etc etc - along with the already fitted lighter wheels, Nitron shock, Akra, ally rear sprocket I managed to drop 82 3/4 lbs (weighed bits taken off and what I fitted). To back up what's been said the bike feels utterly different, the better suspension and set-up had made a big difference, the missing weight has made the bike feel a class size smaller. It's a really confidence inspiring bike now and you can load the suspension up in the bends, steer in on the brakes,  but unlike modern sports bikes (and it's man sized), the smooth, torquey engine is very happy to lazily travel along too - suits me !   

As G1460 says you won't pick up any extra ponies with stick coils over a normal properly sorted system, but it frees up space and was 10oz lighter than std coils/leads/spacer/screws and about a ton lighter than the big 3 ohm dynacoils !

 

[Wagola]

Hi, I've tried stick coils on a zx9r motor and wasn't that impressed to be honest. I'll be sticking with the Dyna coils for this summer and might have a play over the winter. What stick coils fit the L engine ? The bike itself is in lots of bits right now but I will try to get some photo's uploaded as and when it starts to come together.

[Dezza]

Don't dyna now do a titchy 3 ohm coil? The old style green ones seem to hold a good price secondhand so if sold the cost is the price difference between the 2, and faffing about with new fangled stick coils is not necessary.

[Wagola]

Hi, yeah they do a smaller mini coil but not sure about them so will be staying with the bigger green ones for now.

[Oilyspanner]

If you do want to swap to stick coils this winter :

The stick coils from the 1000/750/600 early K (750 Y-K5, 600 K1-K5, 1000K1-K6) family have the correct rating and decent length, earlier SRAD coils don't have enough resistance on primary/secondary for our ignitions - late K onwards seemed to change too. 

I remember the same reservations about pointless ignition when it started to replace points/steam locomotives etc !! - just kidding, the old coil units are dependable units and provide good sparks - I just like the space created, which helps at service time/playing about with stuff !

[Wagola]

Hi. I'm not against stick coils and I do like to tinker/play so will give it a go over the winter. I do like the idea of keeping things clean and tidy as well.Eblag here I come.

[Upshotknothole]

What would you suggest for an 1100M engine? I've been thinking about swapping on a dot head, although eventually I'd like to go with a 1216 kit, but M/N aftermarket cams are pretty hard to find compared to the earlier models. Already have the suspension sorted and RS38s on it, but I'd like a bit more power.

Edited June 16, 2017 by Upshotknothole

[Gixer1460]

Dot head will work ok with std bore but too high CR with a 1216 kit. Why not find a std set of M cams and get them reground, My M cams for my Turbo came from Ron Kroll in the States so new billet ones are available but not common...............or swop out to a K or L head then stupid number of cam variations are available?

[Wagola]

A cam re-grind looks to be around £300 ?

[Wagola]

Hi, what about the 4 degree ignition advancers ? Worth fitting ?

[Wagola]

On ‎10‎/‎06‎/‎2017 at 5:24 PM, Gixer1460 said:

If its road biased and not all top end, you are looking for torque - big bore good for that also head work as airflow and cylinder filling = torque. Personally i'd stick with RS36mm carbs and throw some Kent stage 1 cams at it and you be looking at mid 155's HP and nice torque. Forget a 6 speed - no need to keep engine boiling if you have pull! If its got a 1216 kit, it should have compression and so a DOT head will be too much. Good coils - bonus and Dyna 2000i IF you need ignition adjustment, stick coils bring nothing to the party so save money.

And 4 degree ignition advancer ? Worth it ?

[Gixer1460]

13 minutes ago, Wagola said:

And 4 degree ignition advancer ? Worth it ?

Made no discernable difference on mine - tried on dyno back to back. Prefer to use a programmable Dyna to put the advance where it does good and take it away where it doesn't. 7 map points isn't great but better than none.