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EFE elctrickery


Rene EFE

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Last year during the TT, the electrics on my EFE started playing up; blowing bulbs like no tomorrow, seemingly less charge on the battery and while riding home (in the middel of the night) all lights went; very interesting ride with 80mls to go.

Now, it's fully stock, pushing 30yrs old; is it just a case of swapping the reg/rec with a new one or on of another brand, or is there more to it?

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Does it still have all the stock electrical components? I am thinking here of the idiotically over-complicated blown-bulb warning system. If that starts playing up maybe it can contribute to the symptoms described. If so and you want to remove it, I have the methods to do so written down somewhere and can post them on this website (I posted these instructions on the old version of the site.) Changing the reg-rec isn't going to hurt nor is removing the loom and checking every connection in minute detail. Also check your earths and alternator output:)

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I changed my EFE reg/rec last October for another EFE part...that too was knackered so I bought a quality after market part and its been fine since...just to note I do not use the original clock/dash unit but I have kept the original loom and multi plug on the bike just in case I decide to in the future.

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11 minutes ago, Rene EFE said:

As long as I can get the lot working, not really bothered about hidden originality. Would this be a cure for the troubles I'm having?

Maybe but not necessarily. For instance, a faulty alternator and/or other components coupled with dodgy connections/earths could bugger up the Reg-Rec. If you change the Reg-Rec then you are then likely to only temporarily solve the problem. Check everything out first before fitting the new Reg-Rec.

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Here - thought process I had:

Bullet proof = mosfet - runs coolest - most likely to last - and I can use it with the lithium hybrid wossname battery. Hon-dah replacement - pretty bullet proof, make sure you get the right one (there are different ones IIRC) and it will already be second hand when you get it as buying a new one is more expensive than the mosfet IIRC. Buy the replacement suzi one .. guaranteed to die sooner than the other options, defo bad idea with a lithium hybrid battery wossname and may result in your other components melting!!

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Rene, the mosfet regulators you'd want to look at are the FH-series by Shindengen, which are OE on upper range Yamaha and Kawa bikes.

This often is the FH012AA (50A) type, but as it is in great demand second hand prices are up and the FH010BA version (35A) becomes a cheap viable alternative.

There's a new version for the FH012AA that has been available for a while now via aftermarket sources like Eblag. This is the FH020AA and is widely available. Prices for new items are still steep so you might want to look for used ones (which are probably ok as these FH-regulators are very reliable contrary to older shunt type regulators).

Oh.. Hooking up the regulator is straightforward but an expensive type of (Furukawa) connector is needed if you want to do a tidy job. The grey and black are different, so you need both versions. Quick fix/cheap alternative is using separate spade connectors.

FH020AA_wb_irf.jpg

As for Eblag, always beware for fake copies and rebranded/relabeled parts. Visually compare the pictured regulator to trusted sources and check feedback etc..

Oh.. These mosfets are slightly bigger in dimension than the stock r/r so you might have to a bit of modifying to make it fit onto the battery tray.

 
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On 10/02/2017 at 7:52 AM, Rene EFE said:

What R/R did you end up using? As I understand it, all of them are pretty much the same, I just can't get my head around using one of a Superdream, which is supposed to be the best one.

I used a Super dream one that cost a fiver, it has an extra live to blank but its been working fine for the last few years now. Funnily enough a mate who likes his H*nd£s informed me they were a common failing on the Super Dreams and consider junk ha ha 

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  • 3 weeks later...

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