strima

Or you could just measure the existing seals and order the correct size. https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Seals-Fork-Oil-Seals/c19_20/index.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw5qrXBRC3ARIsAJq3bwr5VyCFf2fG4gUkWtfp7vy_fx_nuNTEMiVa37iSb4800GZScrMWOoAaAn77EALw_wcB https://www.brooksuspension.co.uk/fork-seals/fork-oil-seals.html

Got a picture or a link?

I would ride down but the carbs are in bits on the bench...

Cheers johnr, got them bookmarked.

I'm in the process of stripping my Mikunis as the beast is running a little rough. Where's the best place to get rebuild kits? Also the carb diaphragm rubbers are getting a bit past it, can the rubbers be bought separate or as a complete slide unit? If separates how do they come off?

Sounds like a bad connection somewhere. Time to start tracing wires and check for damage.

^^This^^ I would try cranking it over by hand to give me an idea if anything is catching or jammed, then strip as far as necessary to see what the damage is.

Are all the cable connections in good condition?

Try putting the calipers and pipes above the master cylinder, this should make the air bleed out easier. Once you've got a load of fluid in the system then refit and do the final bleed. Theory being the fluid pushes the air upwards in the direction it wants to go rather than trying to push against it.

Top job!!!

A bit more costly would be get the crank away to someone who does crank chroming and grinding. Should come back good as new.

TBH I'd be delving a bit deeper after finding that. Doesn't take a lot to bung up a gallery and shag your engine.

Don't tell my wife but I used one of her vibrators to tease the air out of one set of brakes hoses...

Another vote for fresh fluid. Even a tiny amount of water/moisture in the old stuff can make a massive difference.

At least you found the tappet adjuster, that'll save a couple of quid...

I had to get really angry with the last one I took out:

I don't know about the spacing etc but I am also interested as I really want spokes for my GS850.

I've used one's off eblag that take blade fuses and also have an LED indicator if the fuse blows, easy enough to wire up with spade connectors.

Every GS I've known takes a while to start and run smoothly after standing for a while. It's just character...

That's why electrician sounds like magician...

Straight swap, most manufacturers will be able to tell you the correct battery for your bike.

12ah is higher capacity, gives you better and longer cranking power.

All depends on the use, if daily riding then lead acid would be fine as it has a better cycle rate than AGM. If being left stood for long periods then AGM has a slower self discharge rate.

I'd say the battery is fucked. If it shows 12.7V after charging then the charger is OK.

Optimates and the like require a small amount of voltage to register before they put any form of charge back into the battery. This is a safety feature that stops the charger putting out any current if no battery is detected, also stops you from charging a battery and giving it reverse polarity.