Rene EFE Posted February 8, 2017 Posted February 8, 2017 Last year during the TT, the electrics on my EFE started playing up; blowing bulbs like no tomorrow, seemingly less charge on the battery and while riding home (in the middel of the night) all lights went; very interesting ride with 80mls to go. Now, it's fully stock, pushing 30yrs old; is it just a case of swapping the reg/rec with a new one or on of another brand, or is there more to it? Quote
Dezza Posted February 8, 2017 Posted February 8, 2017 Does it still have all the stock electrical components? I am thinking here of the idiotically over-complicated blown-bulb warning system. If that starts playing up maybe it can contribute to the symptoms described. If so and you want to remove it, I have the methods to do so written down somewhere and can post them on this website (I posted these instructions on the old version of the site.) Changing the reg-rec isn't going to hurt nor is removing the loom and checking every connection in minute detail. Also check your earths and alternator output Quote
Captain Chaos Posted February 8, 2017 Posted February 8, 2017 http://old-skool-suzuki.proboards.com/thread/4302/control-unit-elimination thanks to @arnout who helped me a few years ago. Quote
Rene EFE Posted February 8, 2017 Author Posted February 8, 2017 7 hours ago, Dezza said: Does it still have all the stock electrical components? Yes, all of it, and I really want to keep it all in working order. It would let the bike down greatly if I would start to cut corners. Quote
Rene EFE Posted February 8, 2017 Author Posted February 8, 2017 7 hours ago, Dezza said: Changing the reg-rec isn't going to hurt I was hoping that this would magically cure everything Quote
Sheep Posted February 10, 2017 Posted February 10, 2017 I changed my EFE reg/rec last October for another EFE part...that too was knackered so I bought a quality after market part and its been fine since...just to note I do not use the original clock/dash unit but I have kept the original loom and multi plug on the bike just in case I decide to in the future. Quote
Rene EFE Posted February 10, 2017 Author Posted February 10, 2017 What R/R did you end up using? As I understand it, all of them are pretty much the same, I just can't get my head around using one of a Superdream, which is supposed to be the best one. Quote
Gixer1460 Posted February 10, 2017 Posted February 10, 2017 57 minutes ago, Rene EFE said: I'd love to use one off a Superdream, which is supposed to be the best one. Step this way.........welcome to the Dark Side! You know you want it - don't fight it. 2 Quote
Rene EFE Posted February 10, 2017 Author Posted February 10, 2017 As long as I can get the lot working, not really bothered about hidden originality. Would this be a cure for the troubles I'm having? Quote
Dezza Posted February 10, 2017 Posted February 10, 2017 11 minutes ago, Rene EFE said: As long as I can get the lot working, not really bothered about hidden originality. Would this be a cure for the troubles I'm having? Maybe but not necessarily. For instance, a faulty alternator and/or other components coupled with dodgy connections/earths could bugger up the Reg-Rec. If you change the Reg-Rec then you are then likely to only temporarily solve the problem. Check everything out first before fitting the new Reg-Rec. 2 Quote
Rene EFE Posted February 10, 2017 Author Posted February 10, 2017 Ok. I'll have to start somewhere, so that will be the first thing I'll do. Quote
Solcambs Posted February 10, 2017 Posted February 10, 2017 I looked at the Gurls blouse RR for my project ... but eventually opted for the Mosfet aftermarket RR. Not that costly but bullet proof. 1 Quote
Rene EFE Posted February 10, 2017 Author Posted February 10, 2017 Got a link for the Mosfet? [edit] Found it [/edit] 1 Quote
Rene EFE Posted February 10, 2017 Author Posted February 10, 2017 Fucking boatloads of options; how do I figure out which one I need? If anyone didn't understand before; I know FUCK-ALL about electricity 1 Quote
Swiss Toni Posted February 10, 2017 Posted February 10, 2017 Join the club! That's why it's called 'Electrickery'!!! Quote
strima Posted February 10, 2017 Posted February 10, 2017 1 hour ago, Swiss Toni said: Join the club! That's why it's called 'Electrickery'!!! That's why electrician sounds like magician... Quote
Solcambs Posted February 10, 2017 Posted February 10, 2017 Here - thought process I had: Bullet proof = mosfet - runs coolest - most likely to last - and I can use it with the lithium hybrid wossname battery. Hon-dah replacement - pretty bullet proof, make sure you get the right one (there are different ones IIRC) and it will already be second hand when you get it as buying a new one is more expensive than the mosfet IIRC. Buy the replacement suzi one .. guaranteed to die sooner than the other options, defo bad idea with a lithium hybrid battery wossname and may result in your other components melting!! Quote
Solcambs Posted February 10, 2017 Posted February 10, 2017 3 hours ago, Rene EFE said: Got a link for the Mosfet? [edit] Found it [/edit] Item: 5682023392 on the blag of e looks like the one I bought - though I found a UK supplier at the time - paid about 70 quid IIRC Â 1 Quote
arnout Posted February 10, 2017 Posted February 10, 2017 Rene, the mosfet regulators you'd want to look at are the FH-series by Shindengen, which are OE on upper range Yamaha and Kawa bikes. This often is the FH012AA (50A) type, but as it is in great demand second hand prices are up and the FH010BA version (35A) becomes a cheap viable alternative. There's a new version for the FH012AA that has been available for a while now via aftermarket sources like Eblag. This is the FH020AA and is widely available. Prices for new items are still steep so you might want to look for used ones (which are probably ok as these FH-regulators are very reliable contrary to older shunt type regulators). Oh.. Hooking up the regulator is straightforward but an expensive type of (Furukawa) connector is needed if you want to do a tidy job. The grey and black are different, so you need both versions. Quick fix/cheap alternative is using separate spade connectors. As for Eblag, always beware for fake copies and rebranded/relabeled parts. Visually compare the pictured regulator to trusted sources and check feedback etc.. Oh.. These mosfets are slightly bigger in dimension than the stock r/r so you might have to a bit of modifying to make it fit onto the battery tray. Â 3 Quote
kja.busa Posted February 11, 2017 Posted February 11, 2017 (edited) I use these kits from Murica, fit them to all my bikes, easy to do, looks oem, and as the others have said Mosfet is way better. http://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/380705241034?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Â Edited February 11, 2017 by kja.busa Quote
jacktar01 Posted February 15, 2017 Posted February 15, 2017 On 10/02/2017 at 7:52 AM, Rene EFE said: What R/R did you end up using? As I understand it, all of them are pretty much the same, I just can't get my head around using one of a Superdream, which is supposed to be the best one. I used a Super dream one that cost a fiver, it has an extra live to blank but its been working fine for the last few years now. Funnily enough a mate who likes his H*nd£s informed me they were a common failing on the Super Dreams and consider junk ha ha Quote
Rene EFE Posted March 2, 2017 Author Posted March 2, 2017 Right, 2 bikes done for the coming spring and one firmly in the works. if all goes well, I'll even get this sorted before TT. I found an SRAD600 or 750 regrec in a box of spares; would this be any good? Quote
Captain Chaos Posted March 2, 2017 Posted March 2, 2017 1 hour ago, Rene EFE said: I found an SRAD600 or 750 regrec in a box of spares; would this be any good? it should work. Quote
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