Guest YoshiJohnny Posted November 30, 2016 Posted November 30, 2016 Anything I can do to help just shout... I am hoping to join the team but need a few more signatures on my licence application to be allowed to race,,, gonna work on it... if I can then the Smithy inspired "pussy engine" will be in one piece ready to slot in... if not I will shelve it until next year...that isn't because I'm mean but I can handle a motor going boooof if a few of us are busy racing it, but being sat at home whilst it goes boof and being brought home in a bin bag might make me cry. There a LOT of interesting bits going in this motor and I will document the build here just because it will psyche me into getting some races and signatures done over winter. I really don't want to race in the snow but REALLY want to be on track in MAY..... Quote
minx Posted November 30, 2016 Posted November 30, 2016 Where there's a will .. Same from this corner, anything we can do to help .. Quote
MeanBean49 Posted December 5, 2016 Author Posted December 5, 2016 Well heres the start, got a frame, tank and swingarm that will firm the basis of the project. I also picked up this awfully nice pukka big bore yoshi system for a reasonable amount of pennies. Will get the dummy engine from my lockup this weekend and start offering up 11 Quote
Guest YoshiJohnny Posted December 11, 2016 Posted December 11, 2016 Engine pulled to pieces..been sat for a while under cover but suffered 2 house moves... crank and cases cleaned up and all looks good... painted cases at long last..will get some pics up of the build this week Quote
Guest YoshiJohnny Posted December 12, 2016 Posted December 12, 2016 So after stripping it to make sure all is clean and well.. I have started to put it together. the oilways to the cylinder studs have been sealed off with grub screws (as will be the cylinder head feeds..it's going back together and a couple of problems have come to light.. one set of circlips for the new Wisecos has gone missing but I am gonna use teflon buttons.. head is with Roger Upperton having mods done Quote
Guest YoshiJohnny Posted December 12, 2016 Posted December 12, 2016 Gonna take a load of bits to work to dip in the fizzy bath...measure and organize teflon buttons..then it can be ready for lid Quote
Guest YoshiJohnny Posted December 14, 2016 Posted December 14, 2016 Nick at SPS has kindly offered to fit my straight cut gear to the clutch basket donated by Treephoenix for next to no money cheers guys... Quote
MeanBean49 Posted December 15, 2016 Author Posted December 15, 2016 Looks awesome mate. Its payday so im going to order some ally box section and start the butchering :-) 2 Quote
nightrider Posted December 23, 2016 Posted December 23, 2016 (edited) YoshiJohnny I'm assuming exterior drilled holes are for heat dispersion and Interior drilled holes are for engine breathing? Edited December 24, 2016 by nightrider Quote
nightrider Posted December 23, 2016 Posted December 23, 2016 (edited) I have pondered on doing this exact Idea myself. Local rules here outlaw oilcooled motors. We get pushed into Modern classics (95-2005) Edited December 23, 2016 by nightrider Quote
jameskat Posted December 24, 2016 Posted December 24, 2016 I think the holes are for weight saving (every little helps), the starter motor location, sprocket area and front mounting bolt area drilled are fairly low stress areas. Quote
Guest YoshiJohnny Posted January 4, 2017 Posted January 4, 2017 On 24/12/2016 at 8:35 AM, jameskat said: I think the holes are for weight saving (every little helps), the starter motor location, sprocket area and front mounting bolt area drilled are fairly low stress areas. holes were to keep the things cool...the weight difference is next to nothing anyways I better just say the team is in all seriousness probably not going to be ready this year... good as Rob is at building stuff it's a big ask to have it ready for the start of May. I really want to be in on it as well so we are going to plan for 2018 and be ready...to kick ass... I know this may come as a disappointment BUT I may have a plan to compensate ... I have asked Wes Cooley to come visit YJ Quote
gsx Posted January 6, 2017 Posted January 6, 2017 Wasn't there a thread on here with a link to someone that had done the same ? Gs motor in a slabby frame . Good luck think your going to need it . Mind you my toolkit consists of a very big rubber mallet , set of mole grips and the secret weapon . . ,a mucker Wayne 1 Quote
nightrider Posted January 10, 2017 Posted January 10, 2017 (edited) On 1/4/2017 at 2:35 PM, YoshiJohnny said: holes were to keep the things cool...the weight difference is next to nothing That's what I figured. On second look I see those 6 holes in the case are actually going to the stater compartment. Thought you came up with an interesting breather idea. Still like it, didn't accur to me. Edited January 10, 2017 by nightrider Quote
Guest YoshiJohnny Posted January 10, 2017 Posted January 10, 2017 big ones under the starter are for heat loss as well... any trapped air stayed hot, built up heat and was "the enemy" weight saving was obviously there but it was secondary.. heat was one of the problems and camchain/tensioners were another... some engines were made into Swiss cheese in and out, valve buckets, clutch baskets even gear selector drums but the weight could easily have been reduced more easily by putting Wes on a diet lol Quote
nightrider Posted January 10, 2017 Posted January 10, 2017 Is the shorter cam chain guide the fix? Quote
Guest YoshiJohnny Posted January 10, 2017 Posted January 10, 2017 2 extra jockey wheels longer camchain and the shorter blade was the key... initially the standard set up let the camchain eat the slippers and alter the cam timing to the point the motors destroyed themselves.. they even had a guy polishing...as in mirror polishing the camchain links so they'd slip over the blades easier Quote
MeanBean49 Posted January 11, 2017 Author Posted January 11, 2017 Im going to press on with the Chassis and all being well we may have something together towards the end of the season for a bit of testing ready for a propper effort in 2018. 4 Quote
sharpy Posted January 11, 2017 Posted January 11, 2017 (edited) With all due respect i thought cooling holes where only as round as what the material thickness X 2 was ( 4mm material = 8mm holes) that was being drilled. Any more and you are creating less surface area than making. Or those holes look bigger in the pic. Ive been wrong before and will be again Edited January 11, 2017 by sharpy Quote
Screwriverracing Posted February 2, 2017 Posted February 2, 2017 This is looking interesting, I wouldn't mind helping but I don't have any suitable parts or time at the moment. would it be possible to make a donation? Of money?sort of a OSS members sponsorship. Cheers SRR Quote
ratboy1127 Posted February 15, 2017 Posted February 15, 2017 Great thread, mate building a bandit based xr69 rep Quote
nlovien Posted February 26, 2017 Posted February 26, 2017 On 26/11/2016 at 6:02 PM, nightrider said: good to know. Building a 1100h track bike w/ 1157 motor this winter. I have the option of BT36, BT38 & VM33 in my shed. in agreement ref: BT36 versus VM33 - both good carbs but there is something about the BT36 that just works, very forgiving - best production bike carb I've tinkered with 1 Quote
robbo_64 Posted May 24, 2017 Posted May 24, 2017 (edited) What happened did you make Donnington? DOH just read it properly, any more progress? Edited May 24, 2017 by robbo_64 I can't read Quote
MeanBean49 Posted May 24, 2017 Author Posted May 24, 2017 13 minutes ago, robbo_64 said: What happened did you make Donnington? DOH just read it properly, any more progress? On tge back burner at the minute. Need Yoshijohnny to get his race licence. Quote
nlovien Posted May 27, 2017 Posted May 27, 2017 On 2017-1-10 at 8:09 PM, YoshiJohnny said: 2 extra jockey wheels longer camchain and the shorter blade was the key... initially the standard set up let the camchain eat the slippers and alter the cam timing to the point the motors destroyed themselves.. they even had a guy polishing...as in mirror polishing the camchain links so they'd slip over the blades easier don't know nout about this, however I do know about a guy in NZ who reliably sorted another manufacturers well known cam chain destruction std guides and got the engine to safely rev. a further 2K part because of this. all in the shape of the guide and something to do with harmonics - anyway, might be worth contacting him to chat about it - guy called Brent Hyde - for obvious reasons no link posted Quote
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