nightrider

I have a 1987 750 Gen. with the same Tooth count. I assume I can use this instead?

Oh I have a few of those

So as I only have 1052 harness & CDI, I should swap out my pick-ups/plate and switch then,

Thanks CockneyRick All my gear is 1052 so this is the way I'll go.

Copy that Duckndive Thank you!

I'm putting a donor B12 Motor in a Slabby 11 Roller. B12 Gen. has different connections then Slabby Gen. Can I just throw a 1052 Gen. (which I have loads of) or am I going to have to figure out the different wiring (I don't have a B12 Harness)?

Sorry for the high jack but all this seems to indicate that i can use gs1100 cams as cores for my gs1150 efe then. I have a set knocking around. I would rather send those in then my 1150 cams as they are in spec

I'm probably a little late on this thread but I have always used a product over rhere called gasket sinch. I've seen it under many different names and product lines. Its a dark purple sweet-ish smelling stuff with a rubber cement type consistency. Always comes in a little tin can with applicator brush attached to the inside of cap (Just like rubber cement). Works great. Been using it since the 80's

Is the shorter cam chain guide the fix?

That's what I figured. On second look I see those 6 holes in the case are actually going to the stater compartment. Thought you came up with an interesting breather idea. Still like it, didn't accur to me.

I have pondered on doing this exact Idea myself. Local rules here outlaw oilcooled motors. We get pushed into Modern classics (95-2005)

YoshiJohnny I'm assuming exterior drilled holes are for heat dispersion and Interior drilled holes are for engine breathing?

Over the years I have learned so much from my fellow OSS inmates (since 08) it would be great to give something back. I intend for my Plasti post to be for OSS eyes only so I will post it in my up coming "Track Slabby" build. I'll put it on the first page.

I'm bedridden at the moment with injuries (again) but once I'm better I'll post a how-to on Plasti welding for my OSS brethren.

Practice makes perfect

I have an SV650 rear wheel w/ 170 Conti's on my ES (us market EF) used a gs500 cush drive with cut down ES inner spacer for alignment. Chain just barely touches the tire. No biggie Also had to shorten the brake hanger. I imagine you will have to as well

Rene EFE I forgot to answer your original question. Slabby side panels tend to be brittle and crack (Additional engine heat I suppose) especially the mounting area's. I have had a lot of failures on the upper fairing were it connects to the sides as well. Can't remember having any issues with the Bottom or Tail pieces. I repair using the same method we use for open water kayaks. Do your weld as normal but then melt in a thin gauge wire mesh over the weld and the mounting area's. You can melt additional material on top of the mesh but it's really just cosmetic in most cases. If you have the welder that comes with the flat "foot" iron it will work great for this.

good to know. Building a 1100h track bike w/ 1157 motor this winter. I have the option of BT36, BT38 & VM33 in my shed.

better mid range?

You might get away with VM33's then. No they are not stock but they are club racing period correct which passes with most clubs nowadays.

Urethane Supply Polyvance Mini-Weld Model 7 Airless Plastic Welder 5700HT (can be easily found on eblag)

I have been professionally plastic welding on and off since the mid 90's. Everything from fairings, car bumpers to Kayaks. Plastic welding works great IF the plastic isn't brittle. If it's cracking from sun damage it's pretty much garage art by that point. Welders aren't super cheap (roughly $200 +/- ) but u will start to use it on all kinds of plastic repairs once you get the hang of it. Well worth it. You want the "mini" gun. It's basically a soldering iron with a hoop and a foot attachment. Don't get the big air one. It's for thicker plastics and bigger welds. Plastic welding is a super easy process especially if you already know how to weld with acetylene. Like metal welding you are melting the existing material and blending in new filler material as you go. Most people make the mistake of just melting their ABS rod material on top of the crack. You have to get it deep down in there and get the materials to bold with each other. Your welding not gluing it back together.

ya, that's what I thought

while were on the subject, are Slingshot DOT and Teapot DOT cams the same? I have the Teapot DOT cams.

B12 cams or 1100 or J/k 750?