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Sidestand 1100M


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Slabby 1100(not 750,they are shorter) stands(and you'll need the slabby bracket) are longer and bolt straight onto the slingshot frames (I'll measure it later and let you know the difference,but you can see in the pic that they are long stands):)
 

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On my 1100k(as i fitted the longer watercooler shock)i needed a longer sidestand,but didn't want to get rid of or chop up my chrome stand. So i made an extension from 20mm thick aluminium  :)

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Edited by Del
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/30/2016 at 8:48 AM, Gixerjonah said:

What model 750 was that Stoney, WN WP ? or will any of the water boilers do ? Just need summat slightly longer that'll go straight on.

All w/c 750 and 1100 have longer stands than slingshots. Somewhere like around an inch longer. Just use the slingshot frame bracket with the w/c stand/ springs.  ;)

Edited by Jaydee
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  • 8 months later...

Just to add a few comments to this as I recently found this thread very useful through a search, as I needed to do something about the stand on my 750L after fitting 30mm jack-up dogbones.

I notice another option is fitting an extension plate to the frame which lowers the stand mounting point and mounting the stand to the plate.  But whilst this is a neat idea, and avoids having to mess with the sidestand switch, it's not an option if you have the bellypan fitted to the bike as the repositioned stand will foul it.

So, I ordered a 750WN stand.  I was thinking that maybe I could use the WN bracket as well, so avoiding the switch issues Gixerjonah found but that's not an option as the WN bracket mounts to the frame in a completely different place to the Slingy so it's not usable, you can only use the stand.

So the sidestand switch has to go, unless you want to start major mucking about to weld on some way of activating the switch off the WN stand.  I didn't want to start removing the whole sidestand circuit at this time so, as the WN stand also came with a switch which has an identical connector block to the Slingy, I cut off the WN connector block with a length of wire intact, put a bullet connector on the end of the wire, and having removed the Slingy switch complete with wire I bridged out the sidestand circuit by plugging in the doctored WN connector block and bullet to the loom.  I may remove the whole circuit in due course  but for now this is fine.

Only other issue I had was I found that there was a fair bit of play in the WN stand.  It looks as if it should be the same as the SIingy but maybe it was a bit more worn.  I could have left it but just to do it properly I made up a couple of shims to slip either side of the Slingy bracket pivot point, with the stand bolt passing through them, cut out of some 0.3mm brass sheet.  That tightened things up nicely.

If I had access to cheap welding I'd have extended the Slingy stand but that not being the case this was the most cost effective solution.

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On 1100N

I fitted the longer  stand from  750 WT/V , used a modded Slingshot bracket - again, I had to lose the s.stand switch, but no hardship. Along with some Ti bolts have saved almost half a pound and another 3 ounces with the switch (all part of 82 lbs lost). The stand was fine even with fairly radical dog bones, I've since made some near stock length links and the stand is still fine. The standard stand quickly gets dodgy with a longer shock and shorter s. links.

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