Numb tingley fingers

[Spelli]

My old 1100et has been having its first outings in more than 20 years.  I am quite surprised just how alien it all feels. I am very out of the groove. 

The bike seems to be running ok. However, there seems to be quite a lot of vibration coming through the handlebars.  It is not too noticeable at first but after about 15 minutes my right hand is very tingly and starts to feel quite numb.

Not the best scenario for braking. 

She doesn't seem quite as smooth as I remember.

I have  have balanced the carbs, fitted new chain and sprocket and new wheel bearings.

Any suggestions as to what might be causing the vibrations would be appreciated.  

Not sure if I am expecting too much for a 44 year old bike. 

Edited June 20 by Spelli

[TonyGee]

you have to be hard to ride old school bikes, not like the power rangers on their rocket ships !!!!!  

[Toecutter]

I have a similar issue with my gsxr. Numb right hand after 15-20 minutes, slow-ish speed riding and on decelleration quite viby. High speed riding is fine. Have gone through everything. It was suggested that there may be an old bit of bar end loose in the clip-on eg, a nut that's rumbling around in there causing high frequency vibes. I still haven't gotten around to having a look as yet but have been through everything else. 

Have you checked all engine mounts are tight? Can you feel it through your feet?

My old gsx1100 is very smooth in comparison.

Edited June 20 by Toecutter
Clumsy digits

[Spelli]

Toecutter,

Thanks for the input. I will check the engine mounts. 

I can’t  feel any vibration  through the seat or the pegs. 

Edited June 20 by Spelli

[Spelli]

I have noticed that the exhaust headers run at different  temperatures.

i am looking for a colour tune so I can set the slow running pilot screws to hopefully even this out.  But all the suppliers I can find online are out of stock. 

Do you think that might be part of the problem?

[Toecutter]

There are a few factors that could lead to different exhaust temps across cylinders. It's quite rare they will all read exactly the same, especially on a 4 into 1 system for example. Also depends on design of the 4-1 with header layout etc. Condition of the carb internals will also play a part. Partially clogged pilot jets, float needle Condition and also float heights.

Condition of the engine also will have an effect. Compression, valve clearances, weak spark to name a few.  

How does the bike run generally? Has it the stock exhaust system and intake fitted?

 

 

[Spelli]

I bought the bike in 1983 with just 2500 miles on the clock. It now has 16500 miles on the clock and the engine is completely unmolested. It has been stud in a dry garage for over 20 years. The carbs have been cleaned and overhauled. New air filter, new inlet rubbers, valve clearances checked and oil changed.

The exhaust is a Motad 4 into 1

The different header temperatures are only detectable as the engine is stood warming up. The inner 2 cylinders run hotter than the outer 2.

Edited June 21 by Spelli

[DAZ]

You say "I am very out of the groove" , if you haven't ridden in a long time it may be that you're a bit tense and gripping the throttle a bit tight , if you can't find a reason other than it's just a bit vibey then there are things that slip inside the bars to dampen vibration or a cheap trick is to pump a tube of silicone into the bars 

[Spelli]

28 minutes ago, DAZ said:

You say "I am very out of the groove" , if you haven't ridden in a long time it may be that you're a bit tense and gripping the throttle a bit tight , if you can't find a reason other than it's just a bit vibey then there are things that slip inside the bars to dampen vibration or a cheap trick is to pump a tube of silicone into the bars 

I am definitely gripping the bars quite tightly and it could explane why it is mainly affecting the right hand but there is definitely quite a bit of vibration.

Damping the bars is an interesting idea.

What else would do the trick?

Are there any alternative grips that would reduce vibration?

[Fazz711]

Had similar vibration problems with GSX.

Made some heavy stainless bar ends and that helped 

[Gixer1460]

1 hour ago, Spelli said:

Damping the bars is an interesting idea.

What else would do the trick?

Anything that increases the bars' mass and is a 'loose' substance - Sand, lead or steel shot, Mercury ! (although I wouldn't recommend that LOL) Heavy bar end plugs often used on 'naturally' vibey bikes - odd cylinders or Vee configurations, only problem with them is increased width for squeezing through gaps !

[Spelli]

26 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

lead  shot

Now there is an interesting idea. Easy to instal and if needed remove. 

Like it !

I also thought about picking up a second had top yoke, reaming  out the handlebar clamp to allow enough space to dampen the bars with some rubber inner tube. 
 

I would not do that to the original yoke but a second hand one might be worth experimenting with. 

Edited June 21 by Spelli

[DAZ]

3 hours ago, Spelli said:

I am definitely gripping the bars quite tightly and it could explane why it is mainly affecting the right hand but there is definitely quite a bit of vibration.

Damping the bars is an interesting idea.

What else would do the trick?

Are there any alternative grips that would reduce vibration?

You can get foam grips ,I don't like them personally but as a last resort it may help 

[Fazz711]

Baja foam grips there's a blast from the past LoL 

[Gixer1460]

3 hours ago, Spelli said:

I also thought about picking up a second had top yoke, reaming  out the handlebar clamp to allow enough space to dampen the bars with some rubber inner tube. 

I wouldn't! - you want bars solidly mounted - imagine what happens in an 'oh shite' moment and the bars rotate due to the rubber - Messy! 

[TonyGee]

3 hours ago, Spelli said:

I also thought about picking up a second had top yoke, reaming  out the handlebar clamp to allow enough space to dampen the bars with some rubber inner tube.

if you mean putting rubber between the bar and the clamp then as said its an accident in waiting !!!!!  any rubber mounting should be where the handlebar clamp bolts through the top yoke. 

[Dezza]

Aircooled RD Yamaha 250/400 handlebar clamps have rubber mounts where they attach to the top yoke. I think daz makes a good point in suggesting having not ridden a bike for a few years you may be tensed up and gripping the bars too tightly. I find it always helps to relax on the bike, although this is now often a challenge given the amount of numpties on phones when driving, potholes, and mobile roadblocks (i.e. hgvs following their satnavs down totally unsuitable rural roads). Rant over.

[Spelli]

5 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

I wouldn't! - you want bars solidly mounted - imagine what happens in an 'oh shite' moment and the bars rotate due to the rubber - Messy! 

The bars would still have to be tight. 
I would  expect the  knurling on both the bars and yolk would provide a tight grip as long as the clamp was tight enough. The reaming out would need to be a progressive process to ensure the grip wasn’t lost. 

[Spelli]

Just now, Spelli said:

The bars would still have to be tight. 
I would  expect the  knurling on both the bars and yolk would provide a tight grip as long as the clamp was tight enough. The reaming out would need to be a progressive process to ensure the grip wasn’t lost. 

The perpose of using a second hand yoke would be so the whole process could be reversed if it wasn’t successful 

[Gixer1460]

1 hour ago, Spelli said:

The bars would still have to be tight. 
I would  expect the  knurling on both the bars and yolk would provide a tight grip as long as the clamp was tight enough. The reaming out would need to be a progressive process to ensure the grip wasn’t lost. 

Tight enough to prevent movement = no isolation for vibes!

[Reinhoud]

Haven't read all the replies..

 

The engine cause the vibrations, you can reduce it with weights on the ends of the handle bars, bar end weights.

 

[Spelli]

8 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

Tight enough to prevent movement = no isolation for vibes!

Yeh… maybe this has not been my best idea .

Thanks for the input.  

[DAZ]

If you really want rubber mounted bars please do it properly as @TonyGee suggests and use bar clamps that bolt through the top yoke and rubber cones as dampeners between the bar clamps and yoke . Expensive after market stuff 

Cheaper oem ones or also available for motocrossers

 

Edited Saturday at 08:26 AM by DAZ
Addition

[Spelli]

They look good. If the problem persists I will definitely give them a look. 
Thanks Daz

[Spelli]

It looks like I have found the cause of all the vibration.

One of the first jobs I did in bringing the old girl back to life was to change the chain and sprockets.  
 

I bought the set from Wemoto. On fitting I noticed that the retaining washer that buts up to the engine sprocket did not have the rubber bush round the outside that acts as a cushion for the chain end plates. 
 

I can’t remember whey I didn’t just fit the old retaining washer back into place, but  I seem to remember there was a reason. 
 

That was the early part of last year and in the  mean time I forgot about it. 
 

Having just removed the sprocket cover just to check it was all tight I noticed the clattering from the chain as I turned the rear wheel. And at that point it all came back to me. 

I managed to find a large o ring around the right size just to see if it would reduce the vibration.

it immediately felt better when moved by hand. And I could tell the difference within 10 feet of riding the bike. 
 

whayyy  !!!

My question is …. Has anyone else gone through this ?

And Is the original cushioned sprocket retainer still available from somewhere?

 

Edited Saturday at 05:26 PM by Spelli