Spelli

Hi Can anyone recommend a decent set of engine protection bars for my old 1100et?

Country codes. great … got it. looks like Uk is E02 Thanks

So you recon the level is not that critical?

Just come to top up the fork oil after replacing the seals on my 1980 1100 et and found the manual gives 2 different specs and levels The manual states a level for “E-01, E28 and E-30.” Of 238ml / 216mm and a second level of 252ml / 193mm for “The others” I can’t seem to find from the manual what these 2 different specs refer too. Any help would be appreciated.

The Petcock filter is intact and from memory it looked fine enough to me. I am thinking that the Petcock filter may well be sufficient. To be honest I am not entirely happy with the in-line fuel filter as it opens up the potential of leaking fuel onto a hot engine which never a good idea.

I can not face getting muck in those lovely clean carbs. They took a lot of effort to get them clean, don’t want to block them up again just for the sake of a bit of fiddling with the pipes.

Thanks for that suggestion. I will check that out tomorrow

The thread is quite fine. Tried the local nut and bolt supplier but no luck. was thinking of buying spare carb drain plugs and drilling through and soldering on a tube to make a connection for the tubes. Think that should do it.

I have de rusted and lined the fuel tank. The carbs have been striped and ultrasonic cleaned and have used an inline fuel filter. So I think everything should be clean. I think this re routing of hose to incorporate the filter has caused the main fuel pipe kink. The pipe looked ok to the eye but it is hard to see when the tank is fitted but I think it is the only reasonable explanation. Think I need to route the pipe with a less tight curve or find a way to stop it kinking.

Think you are right, that doesn’t make sense that would be too much of a coincidence Have you seen those adapters to fit into the drain plugs?

I seem to be having a problem with the rebuilt carbs. On my Gsx1100et At first I was getting some poping in the exhaust which I put down to a lean condition caused by air leak. changed the carb mounting rubbers which had gone hard. This at first appeared to solve the problem. Started the bike this morning and it started straight away, run for a few minutes and then started to die like it was running out of fuel. then it stopped and would not restart. Spark ok. Plenty of fuel. Opened the float bowl drains and very little fuel came out. attached a remote fuel tank so as to eliminate any fuel tap issues and found fuel was still not flowing even though the one of the float bowls was empty. Pipework is intact. Looks to me like the needle valves have been sticking closed. dismantled the carbs …again and all looks ok. Needle valves appear to open and close as needed. what am I missing ? Could the replacement needle valves and seats be giving me the problem. Should I replace them again? I have seen reference to adapters that fits into the float bowl drains enabling clear pipes to be attached so as to see the actual fuel level in carbs. Any idea where I can buy these or how to make them ? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Thanks guys for the info. that is appreciated

I understand th rear of the chain needs to be supported by something heavy at the rear. But I didn’t understand that last comment. Could you clarify please.

Here is a question about chain riveters. there seems to be a lot of cheep tools on the market. Are they any good? Or is it worth spending a little more. what do you use ? can you rivet a drive chain by hand with a hammer and punch?

“ Well what do you know” a bit of wiggling and tapping and it has gone on. Quite a bit tighter than the original but it is on none the less. Yeh. has anyone reused the original spacers? looks to me like it is just the outer one that is needed.

The splines look good. I think taking a file to the sprocket might be worth a try. Nothing to loose if the alternative is to buy another anyway I was half expecting to be told that heating the sprocket before fitting was a standard practice. Or that JT sprockets were such poor quality that it isn’t a surprise that it doesn’t fit.

By eye they look identical

Hi All, bought a new chain and sprocket set for my very slowly being put back together GSX1100et earlier this year from wemoto it is a JT sprocket set. Bit disappointed as the pattern of the rear sprocket is not the same as the original, but hey ho…. I have come eventually to fit the front sprocket and I understand that it is a different pattern from the original no longer available part, but it seems too tight to me. The original slid on and off the spines with ease but the new one seems too small to me. I certainly can not push it on by hand and I do not want to use force. It occurred to me that if it was heated first it might go on, but I feel this is not right approach. Could someone advise me what I should do, should I just buy another and hope that one fits. I was planing on using the original washers and spacers to align the sprockets Pattern parts…… arrrrh

Looks like All Balls racing do master cylinder seal replacements but I cannot find any model specific information on their web site. I have emailed them. Hopefully they will reply.

Thanks for the info. having looked up on their web site, this part no refers to the rear master cylinder k & L might be worth researching into Thanks for the help. It is really appreciated

Hi, bomberone, I am still struggling with getting a repair kit for the front master cylinder. There is a company in France that is listing the part as available but having had a less than happy experience Will ordering the part from goparts in the Netherlands I am a bit weary. Their digital footprint looks a bit off so I am not going down that line. I am currently looking at a similar looking kit for a GS1000 and hoping the seals might fit. a repair kit for the rear master cylinder is available from Tourmax so you shouldn’t have a problem with that. I think the only option for a front master cylinder is either a used part or to try to get one that looks similar. Please let me know how you get on. It would be interesting to compare notes.

Toni, can I ask you, how did you manage to cross reference the part numbers to discover they are used in other machines?

That looks very interesting. Thanks very much Tony. I will have a look at those.

So just an update on previous saga. Goparts have eventually come back to me after about 5 weeks to tell me the GSX master cylinder repair kit is not available and is refunding the money. I found another supplier in Australia who has 3 in stock but will not export the part because it is in short supply and is saving them for his long term loyal clientele. ( fair enough. ) does anyone have any other suggestions as to how I might track down the part or any alternative ideas as to how I might solve this issue….. ie alternative pattern parts / visually similar master cylinder that might be available.