Toecutter

I wouldn't necessarily say they are undesirable. All the major manufacturers were trying all sorts at the time, they all had their own ideas to alleviate 'dive' some better than others. I think modern suspension has come a long way. If you look at motocross forks and Many road bikes where one fork is compression, the other rebound etc times have changed. Still, no matter what technologies exist it's still an unavoidable issue to a degree. But does it really matter? If you brake hard in a straight line and experience dive what actually happens? Nothing really. If you brake hard mid corner the bike tries to stand you upright and anti dive surely becomes meaningless. I think its just a gimmick of the time really. I'm sure someone may pop along with the answer shortly...

All back together. Painted anti dive units, vapour blasted fork lowers, new seals etc. Looks tidy enough. No more leaks. Anti dives still poo...

I measured the seal/plunger diameter. It measures 22x12x5mm. Got a pair from egay, viton double lippers. All o-rings inside are easy to get hold of. Suzuki don't list any repair kits of any kind and suggest you replace the whole unit...hope that helps.

Stripped the leaking anti dive down and it's the main oil seal that's failed, leaking oil into the top housing and out through the cable guide hole. Should hopefully be able to source seals the same size. Will go for a double lipped seal of I can get them. Hopefully that should sort them. Hooked them up to a battery to test they both function before stripping down. Ones a bit lazy so that also needs rectifying/good clean should do it.

Has it got a hole for a peg and 1x threaded hole? If so, a busa front brake switch should fit that cylinder.

Interesting. I'll just order the five hole gasket and snip off the unneeded mounting hole portion then. Cheers.

It's leaking from the top cover plate on mine where the cable exits. The plunger seal is where it's leaking from unfortunately. I'll whip em apart when I get a moment. The bike had been off the road for 20 years. Rebuilt everything apart from the dive units which have lasted a year before showing signs of leaking. Only myself to blame lol.

Cheers, I'll have a look at them when I pop them apart and go from there. I would like to keep the anti dives if possible, although they aren't that great...but that is mainly for the look etc.

Has anyone any info/links to a supplier of antidive blanking plates in the uk? There's some nice machined items that resemble the original units with both passages to allow correct oil flow available from a company in canada, but unfortunately don't dispatch to the uk. Ideally would like to rebuild my stock units as leaking now but to be fair they are pretty shite when they were functioning correctly before leakage. Any info greatly appreciated. Cheers, T.

180 is the biggest but still very close to the frame at swingarm pivot area. 3/8" offset sprocket in 530 chain and machined rear sprocket carrier to get chain run correct. Chain to tyre clearance can get a bit chaffy. I run a 170 Rear in mine to help with tyre munching issue I had with mine with the 180. Going to notch the frame out in my other project. Could run a 520 chain of good quality. Sprocket cover may need the web's whittling down a little to allow for offset front sprocket. Manufacturer tyre sizes don't always measure true 180 between brands so also worth bearing in mind...

Oil cooler straight forward. If you can source an efe oil filter cover (still available) then just need the lines and fittings and a suitable cooler. Then just make a bracket to mount to the two holes just below the steering head tube. Looks a nice bike by the way. Buy it!

Can you fit a set of new oem plates and use oem, original steels that aren't blued/warped if you have some to hand?

Thanks, will take a look.

Spot on clive. Will do Cheers.

This type be the one.

I'm struggling to find a UK supplier of exhaust gaskets for the he221w, earlier type with 4 hole mounting. Plenty available in 5 hole. Anyone in the know? Cheers, T.

Nice job, looks neat. All the best with your tig welding course. So glad I learnt. Great skill to gain.

An led flasher relay should work fine without any mods to anything else. If you can get an adjustable flash rate one in the correct pin configuration should do the job. The orange ones can be found on Amazon for around £6 I think.

Delkevik won't supply gsx 1100 flanges separately unfortunately. Will get some lasercut. If anyone needs any whilst I'm at it let me know. Will be 8mm thick stainless.

Can you not get a new set of emulsion tubes for it. There's some pretty extensive rebuild kits available that are of good quality. You can then just tap out the tube from the bottom with the main jet screwed in slightly so as not to damage the carb, once it's moved a little just tap the rest out with a punch.

I'm going blow through on this one.

Pipe layout very similar to truls build in the forced induction section as so expertly demonstrated.

I've made a start, main holdup is the flanges at the mo. Using 1.5 mm wall 304 stainless tube 38mm dia due to space restrictions at the turbo flange. Pre bent 90 tubes to get everything in the right place where needed. I will put up pics when some substantial progress has been made...

Niceone, cheers. Could be helpful but the pipes I'm using for my particular header design are 38mm dia, with gsx 11 stud spacing. 38mm dia due to space restrictions at the turbo flange. Cheers.

Best way is to pop the whole 17 digit number into a vehicle vin decoder via the interwebs. Just six digits to go by is lacking somewhat. Have you the registration number? If so, just pong it into a mot history check search on the dvla website and it should bring up the model no and mot history from 2005 onwards.