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Removing carb inlet rubbers


Basel

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Posted

Got the engine out of my Slingshot, I’m trying to get the carb rubbers off but every cross head screw is so tight they are on the verge of rounding out.

I’ve tried with a ratchet and a battery screw driver, tried molegrips too but there is little to grip on and they won’t budge.

I thought about using an impact driver but it may damage the head.

Another thought was to cut the rubbers out then get a good grip with some molegrips. 
An thoughts would be appreciated.

Posted

I'd go for drilling the heads off the screws, removing the carb rubbers then get your grips on the threads of the screws. Cheeper to replace the screws than the rubbers.

  • Like 1
Posted

Get an impact driver with JIS bits. Regular phillips bits slip out of Japanese screws. You can replace all of them with allen head screws when you rebuild it, but anything on a Suzuki that looks like a phillips is actually a JIS screw and really needs the correct driver. The intake boots take a JIS #3 bit, carbs are a mix of JIS #1 and #2.

  • Like 5
Posted

To do that same job I used an old soldering iron to heat up the thread of the screws Without flaming up the surroundings

Switch on to top heat, and prop the Iron so the tip is rested in the screw print.

You can leave it as long as you like, but a good 10-15min worked wonders on my engine

  • Like 3
Posted
1 minute ago, Basel said:

Thanks for the input, it gives me different steps, if one doesn’t work move onto the next till I get to drilling a  head off. 

Yeah, the JIS bits aren't magical or anything, but they're a hell of a lot more effective than a normal phillips bit on stubborn screws. Biggest difference is they're a lot less likely to immediately strip the screw head and require drilling or notching. Good luck.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

If you stuff the head up use an angle grinder with cutting disc cut a slot and use flat head impact driver.. softly... worked for me

Then replace them with Allen head screws

Edited by Lachie04
  • Like 1
Posted
8 hours ago, wraith said:

Just be careful with the one that are only a tab sticking out them ones can break 

:L he's right you know, be very careful using a impact driver :tu

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Heat can also be applied directly to a screw by holding a crappy (JIS!!!) screwdriver as supplied in a bike toolkit in a pair of mole grips and then heating the screwdriver shaft with a blowtorch whilst the screwdriver is held in the screwhead. The heat conducts across the screwdriver into the screw.

+1 on being extra careful with the impact driver on these screws as it can easily all end in tears:(.

Edited by Dezza
  • Like 2
Posted

All off, thanks for the help guys. 
What worked for me was a tiny chisel and tapping it with a hammer to get them to start, only had one that caused issues but it came out eventually. 
The soldiering iron method didn’t transfer enough heat even after 30 minutes. 
I didn’t use the impact drive out of fear of breaking something. 

IMG_3903.jpeg

  • Like 2

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