Dynatek Ignition Swap

[Spirit]

I've been offered a complete Dynatek ignition system for my GS1150. The whole setup includes the system, Taylor wires, coils. But is it any better or any measurable improvement  over the stock system? Does anyone here have experience with this setup on the street?

[jensvonbustenskjold]

I'm currently using a Dyna S ignition system. The old system was function perfect, but I'm using my bike for commuting, and I really need it to work. So I made a new wiring harness, and swapped all electrical components.

I cannot tell the difference, other than my bike starts easier.

It kicks right at it with refurbished starter motor, new relay and ignition system.

Easy to install.

I've heard that the quality is poor. It might be. Haven't had it not than one summer 

[denisd]

3 hours ago, jensvonbustenskjold said:

I'm currently using a Dyna S ignition system. The old system was function perfect, but I'm using my bike for commuting, and I really need it to work. So I made a new wiring harness, and swapped all electrical components.

I cannot tell the difference, other than my bike starts easier.

It kicks right at it with refurbished starter motor, new relay and ignition system.

Easy to install.

I've heard that the quality is poor. It might be. Haven't had it not than one summer 

The quality of any of the ones I used were top notch, people have their preferences and some therefore will not use anything else and some others will knock other brands apart from their favourites, dyna have been around for a very long time, that kind of says something too. 

[Fazz711]

Had a few dyna set ups all were good and reliable 

[wraith]

Dyna S on my gs1000 and has been on it for well over 20 years with no problems 

[rodneya]

Dyna S or Dyna 2000 system?

[Gixer1460]

On 10/10/2022 at 1:32 AM, rodneya said:

Dyna S or Dyna 2000 system?

Either work - former is mechanical advance, latter is electronic. I think Dyna subcontracted a lot of their production to the Far East and quality has suffered although i've never experienced any failures so who knows! If you use a Dyna S with ATU you must use a GSX ET type deep cover - EFE type too shallow!

EDIT - As regards performance, anything that deliver a spark at the right time, reliably, is as good as can be got, performance wise! The Dyna 2000 may have more features, most are gimmicks - preset advance curves, no advantage using anything other than #1! Retard will use curve #1 anyway and adding pressure switches is a PITA and I found no benefit at all. The kill wire is really course / laggy IMO and proper kill switches work better. Maybe the 2000i with a user programmable ign. curve is 'ok' but it is a bit limited. I like Dyna stuff and used loads then I discovered EFI which has Sooooooo much more potential I don't consider going back!

Edited October 11, 2022 by Gixer1460

[Spirit]

So all replies prettty much "Works but no impovement in performance"?

 

[rodneya]

1 hour ago, Spirit said:

So all replies prettty much "Works but no impovement in performance"?

 

You never answered if it is a Dyna S or 2000.

The S will be pretty much the same as stock.

The 2000 has 5 advance curves and 4 retard curves, a built in rev limiter and cut out switch for something like a quickshifter. And you can set static timing accurately timing with the engine switched off. So Id say better than stock

[Reinhoud]

On 10/9/2022 at 5:21 PM, jensvonbustenskjold said:

I'm currently using a Dyna S ignition system. The old system was function perfect, but I'm using my bike for commuting, and I really need it to work. So I made a new wiring harness, and swapped all electrical components.

I cannot tell the difference, other than my bike starts easier.

It kicks right at it with refurbished starter motor, new relay and ignition system.

Easy to install.

I've heard that the quality is poor. It might be. Haven't had it not than one summer 

I've read that more people had problems with the Dyna breaking down.

But then I wonder, how is it mounted? Is it just bolted on the frame? Or is it suspended in rubbers?

I've had electronics breaking down because I just bolted it on the frame, as soon as I suspended it in rubbers, the problems were solved..

 

 

My Dyna 2000 is doing alright for the last 10 years

 

 

Edited October 11, 2022 by Reinhoud

[NitrousSuziPower]

Have Dyna S system on 2 GS's for decades NO issue's...

Just installed system on 831100E which was Green 3ohm coils, S pick-up system, Taylor Pro wires, & did the 12v Bosh relay upgrade to feed coils full battery voltage. 

Noticed a large improvement in throttle response & power. The biggest mechanical advantage I can see is the Dyna S pick-up plate has much larger slots. Larger slots allow for more timing adjustment. Can't say IF your bike will want or need more timing. But Dyna has been a leader in the race scene for decades. I wouldn't think twice about any concern of parts failure from their stuff.

Majority of any failure or issue's I've ever seen has been from piss poor installation of owner's that should Never touch a wire crimper much less replacing a ignition system on a motorcycle 

[Gixer1460]

21 minutes ago, NitrousSuziPower said:

Noticed a large improvement in throttle response & power. The biggest mechanical advantage I can see is the Dyna S pick-up plate has much larger slots. Larger slots allow for more timing adjustment. Can't say IF your bike will want or need more timing. But Dyna has been a leader in the race scene for decades.

Whilst the 'S' backplates do have larger slots, this only adjusts the base timing as an 'S' alone is a fixed timing device UNLESS paired with the std. ATU. I've never known anyone change the springs, bob weights or movement stops on these to achieve different rates of, or degrees of timing. Of course a dragbike with offboard starting can start with fixed timing at, say, 30 degrees BTDC but that would be a PITA for a road bike starter. Alternatively use the 'S' with a Schnitz box to control all the timing functions.

[NitrousSuziPower]

10 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

Whilst the 'S' backplates do have larger slots, this only adjusts the base timing as an 'S' alone is a fixed timing device UNLESS paired with the std. ATU. I've never known anyone change the springs, bob weights or movement stops on these to achieve different rates of, or degrees of timing. Of course a dragbike with offboard starting can start with fixed timing at, say, 30 degrees BTDC but that would be a PITA for a road bike starter. Alternatively use the 'S' with a Schnitz box to control all the timing functions.

It's easy as can be to change the adv. Specially the total advance. As all you do is squeeze the cube a lil. I tune muscle car's for a living & these are just like the inside of a regular distributor. By limiting the total advance you can Ealisy advance the base timing which gives you much better throttle response & torque

Edited November 20, 2022 by NitrousSuziPower

[Gixer1460]

You'll have to explain that better as it makes no sense to me!

[NitrousSuziPower]

8 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

You'll have to explain that better as it makes no sense to me!

It's simple performance tuning of any engine!

You limit the total advance & advance the initial timing which will give any gasoline engine better performance... Not sure how much more basic I can explain it...

There's a cube that spins that the weights are attached to. The edges of the cube catch the advancing pieces. So you squeeze the edge tabs which limit the mechanical advance. In case you still can't understand that means it has LESS advance now. So you advance the initial (base) timing and your still at the Same total... Total timing is what truly matters 

[Gixer1460]

It was your terminology that was causing confusion - why call the 'rotor' a cube? It replaces the std suzuki rotor, its circular and nothing like a 'cube'! BTW - its the limit tabs on the ATU that restrict the bob weights movement and the springs the rate at which they move. I can't see any advantage 'crushing' the rotor slots unless stopping ANY movement is what you want to do?

I'm fully aware of how mechanical advance works but advancing base timing on (for example) a high comp engine will result in piss poor starting characteristics if you can get it to spin over at all! - GS's and GSX's in particular can break starter clutches in high CR engines. You need ALL the timing to be right and is why Digital timing gives better power and responsiveness throughout the power band as it can give spark at right time for load, rpm & current fuel.

[NitrousSuziPower]

6 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

It was your terminology that was causing confusion - why call the 'rotor' a cube? It replaces the std suzuki rotor, its circular and nothing like a 'cube'! BTW - its the limit tabs on the ATU that restrict the bob weights movement and the springs the rate at which they move. I can't see any advantage 'crushing' the rotor slots unless stopping ANY movement is what you want to do?

I'm fully aware of how mechanical advance works but advancing base timing on (for example) a high comp engine will result in piss poor starting characteristics if you can get it to spin over at all! - GS's and GSX's in particular can break starter clutches in high CR engines. You need ALL the timing to be right and is why Digital timing gives better power and responsiveness throughout the power band as it can give spark at right time for load, rpm & current fuel.

The cube has Nothing to do with the "rotor" which isn't nothing other than a round piece with a couple magnets in the S system first off. And YES squeezing the tabs which limit the advance like I said. Why would you do anything to rotor SMH.

And high compression LMAO

The poster obviously has a bone stock GS. That's FAR from high compression. My car runs 4.60's & I blow 700hp of nitrous thru it in those 4.5 seconds. I'm fully aware of how to tune timing & how it works. But thanks for your mention of high compression which has Nothing to do with this question asked. And any real tuner can Easily dial in a simple basic mechanical advance without any help of a digital ignition box.