NitrousSuziPower

The cube has Nothing to do with the "rotor" which isn't nothing other than a round piece with a couple magnets in the S system first off. And YES squeezing the tabs which limit the advance like I said. Why would you do anything to rotor SMH. And high compression LMAO The poster obviously has a bone stock GS. That's FAR from high compression. My car runs 4.60's & I blow 700hp of nitrous thru it in those 4.5 seconds. I'm fully aware of how to tune timing & how it works. But thanks for your mention of high compression which has Nothing to do with this question asked. And any real tuner can Easily dial in a simple basic mechanical advance without any help of a digital ignition box.

It's simple performance tuning of any engine! You limit the total advance & advance the initial timing which will give any gasoline engine better performance... Not sure how much more basic I can explain it... There's a cube that spins that the weights are attached to. The edges of the cube catch the advancing pieces. So you squeeze the edge tabs which limit the mechanical advance. In case you still can't understand that means it has LESS advance now. So you advance the initial (base) timing and your still at the Same total... Total timing is what truly matters

It's easy as can be to change the adv. Specially the total advance. As all you do is squeeze the cube a lil. I tune muscle car's for a living & these are just like the inside of a regular distributor. By limiting the total advance you can Ealisy advance the base timing which gives you much better throttle response & torque

Have Dyna S system on 2 GS's for decades NO issue's... Just installed system on 831100E which was Green 3ohm coils, S pick-up system, Taylor Pro wires, & did the 12v Bosh relay upgrade to feed coils full battery voltage. Noticed a large improvement in throttle response & power. The biggest mechanical advantage I can see is the Dyna S pick-up plate has much larger slots. Larger slots allow for more timing adjustment. Can't say IF your bike will want or need more timing. But Dyna has been a leader in the race scene for decades. I wouldn't think twice about any concern of parts failure from their stuff. Majority of any failure or issue's I've ever seen has been from piss poor installation of owner's that should Never touch a wire crimper much less replacing a ignition system on a motorcycle

I'd run the 1327 BIG Block myself. As there's No substitute for c.i. I'd strongly recommend checking out Total Seals YouTube page & feed yourself with the wealth of knowledge Lake Speed Jr has been handing out for free... The new FACTS on actual cylinder honing & true finish needed for good sealing is way different than majority of us have been taught to believe... That being said I'd also Strongly recommend you send that jugs out to IF you don't have a local up to date machine shop. BUT they have to have special expensive tool that measures the cylinder finish to even correctly hone... The finish being left on the cylinder walls (grooves) is needed to carry oil (hold) for the rings to seal. That BIG motor will be much more fun to ride & have stupid torque that you only get from that sized engine... Just my 411

Do you know how to do voltage drop measurements? If not watch a couple YouTube video's & perform those on the grounds. You can also just run a couple New grounds to the old grounding points. Those monitoring lights are very sensitive so a corroded connection, loose pin on the connection, using LED bulbs, loose or poor ground all will make those lights come on or flicker... There's many connections inside the headlight bucket that could be your culprit as well. I recently took my 83 1100E apart upfront to powder coat the headlight bucket & other small pieces & ended up with all kinds of issue's that were never a problem before that... I ended up cleaning many of the corroded pins inside the connectors then packed them with dielectric grease & since solved my problems

LMAO at some of the responses. It's 2022 nitrous is very safe unless your ignorant on installing it & jetting. First off how much boost are you running? Secondly has the bike been tuned on a quality dyno that has a Eddie current brake so the bike sees a load & not just free rolling? If it has what's the air/fuel ratio looking like before the boost starts then how does it respond to the boost? Your much better off to call the actual nitrous companies & talk to people that specialize in tuning and nitrous knowledge as some of the info you were giving here doesn't make sense. We use small nitrous kit's on all kinds of turbo engines as a mechanical intercooler as it does have Major cooling properties. Anyone burning Anything let alone even nipping spark plug ground straps NEEDS Major help in 2022. There's endless safety measures now that will cutoff the nitrous way before there's ANY damage to anything