Jdeac Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 Hi all. Could some shed some light on the lower engine case removal. I'm sure there was a Wright up about it somewhere. I've never done anything like this before. So something to have on the screen whilst doing it would be helpful. Also am I going to need any special tools. Work bench is clear and ready to go. 2 engine mounts and engine is out ready also Cheers all Quote Link to comment
Captain Chaos Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 Get a service manual. 1 Quote Link to comment
Jdeac Posted October 4, 2022 Author Share Posted October 4, 2022 @Captain ChaosI've got a Haynes. But I'm sure that I've seen or heard about a write up a member did about doing it. Quote Link to comment
Captain Chaos Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 And when you've removed all the bolts/nuts holding the engine cases together, look for the ones you forgot or didn't know about. Behind the front sprocket is one, usually covered in chain lube. And remove the oil filter to discover two more bolts. And behind the clutch basket is another one. 3 Quote Link to comment
Captain Chaos Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 Just now, Jdeac said: @Captain ChaosI've got a Haynes. But I'm sure that I've seen or heard about a write up a member did about doing it. Maybe @fatblokeonbandit? Quote Link to comment
Jdeac Posted October 4, 2022 Author Share Posted October 4, 2022 OK. Thanks for that. I should add that I want to leave barrels and head etc in place Quote Link to comment
Captain Chaos Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 Yes that's possible. Quote Link to comment
Captain Chaos Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 And it's easier to remove the front sprocket and clutch with the engine still in the frame and the drivechain connected. So you can apply more force on the bolts. The starter clutch does not have to be removed. Quote Link to comment
davecara Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1053286/Suzuki-2005-Gsf1200.html?page=110#manual I know thats B12 but the procedure is the same. Dont be tempted to use a pry bar to split cases. Once ALL the fixings are out they'll split easy enough. Just be mega careful not to drop the crank shells or get any grit/shite on them. You want to be operating theater clean, dont be tempted to wipe the shells either, leave them be. As CC said, easier to remove the clutch assy and the front sprocket while the engines in situ but a dugga dugga should still get them off. make sure youve got JIS screwdrivers to get the screws on the bearing retaining plates out inside the clutch housing, Impact would be better. Dont lose the little twagger that the oil pump drive gear sits on either if you go that far. Take loads of photos as youre doing it so you dont get the selector forks the wrong way around when it goes back together. Brake cleaner aerosols are your friend So is blue roll not kitchen towel as it leaves lint everywhere take your time Pick the phone up if you get stuck 2 Quote Link to comment
Jdeac Posted October 4, 2022 Author Share Posted October 4, 2022 Anything I need to know about lockup removal also. Again new to me?? Be heading garage very soon Cheers for the input so far everyone Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 No - lock up is just the 4 bolts that compress the clutch springs then it falls off! Quote Link to comment
Dezza Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 Suzuki have provided built-in indentations in the case in which to hold captive an M6 nut (or M8, I can't remember). This enables the cases to be split easily and with care using an appropriate sized bolt. Just slowly tighten each bolt and the cases come apart without the need for screwdriver butchery. 1 Quote Link to comment
clivegto Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 It's not that difficult just take your time and as said remember the hidden nut and bolts. Quote Link to comment
Jdeac Posted October 4, 2022 Author Share Posted October 4, 2022 Can I leave the dyna ignition plate in place and just remove the lower fixing screw and oil pressure lead??? Quote Link to comment
Swiss Toni Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 22 minutes ago, Jdeac said: Can I leave the dyna ignition plate in place and just remove the lower fixing screw and oil pressure lead??? Probably. But it’s just something else you’ll have to keep an eye on when you’re re-assembling it. Take it off. And don’t forget the long Allen bolt above the clutch. You need to remove the blanking plug above to get at it. Quote Link to comment
Jdeac Posted October 4, 2022 Author Share Posted October 4, 2022 @Swiss ToniCan remove it completely. As has a big plug on the end of the wiring. OK to just tie out the way I guess?? Quote Link to comment
Swiss Toni Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 (edited) You’ll have to remove the plug with one of those little terminal doo-dad tools. Or, take all the screws out, give yourself a bit of slack, and tie the whole plate to the case, out of the way. Edited October 4, 2022 by Swiss Toni Quote Link to comment
Jdeac Posted October 4, 2022 Author Share Posted October 4, 2022 Right it's out the way. Next how does the lockup back plate come out?? Quote Link to comment
inmate Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 @Jdeacthanks for asking the question, I will be doing the same work as you soonish, keep the photos coming please it will be a great help will be following Thankyou @davecarafor the online manual Quote Link to comment
Jdeac Posted October 4, 2022 Author Share Posted October 4, 2022 So I have found out. Its an mtc lockup cheers @davecara Mr dunlop says its threaded. So I need a tool. Lets See if this will work Quote Link to comment
Swiss Toni Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 What engine is it? Might have a gen. manual. Quote Link to comment
Jdeac Posted October 4, 2022 Author Share Posted October 4, 2022 Gsxr 1100. But it's part of the lockup Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 1 hour ago, Jdeac said: Gsxr 1100. But it's part of the lockup A later one - M or N, if its got a diaphragm spring clutch. I thought the aluminium backplate was retained by the big 50mm sleeve nut? Could be wrong though as only took a std M clutch apart to fit a proper spring clutch and lock-up LOL! Quote Link to comment
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