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Powerscreen motor with B6 cable actuator


2scars

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Posted

Hey folks, I scored the only 1127 I was able to find on FB marketplace and it happened to be nearby, like 10 minutes down the road.  Anyway.  I can't get it out of gear currently and the hydraulic slave was completely off the bike and wasted by the looks of it.  I remember stumbing across the suggestion of running the B6 sprocket cover with the cable actuator, but the 1100F is missing the clutch push rod also.  Which push rod should I get, the 1100F or the B6?  I feel like the mention was to modify one of them, but  I don't want to buy the wrong one.  

 

It seems the clutch frictions may be seized to the steels as I also cant get it out of gear when manipulating the gear selector.  Any insight on possibilty with that would be welcome also.  I am hoping I just need to pull the cover and separate everything, but I am not sure if this is indicative of a larger problem (i.e. helical primarys being fucked) or something.

 

Thanks and I will throw up some photos in a bit.

Posted

Yes the b6 sprocket cover goes straight on, instead of buying a proper push rod, get some 6mm round bar and cut that to size. I think the standard gsx1100f was about 102mm (without going and checking so maybe different) but a good start point.

The only way to find out about the clutch, is to have a look, always worthwhile with a unknown motor to remove the sump as well and have a look in the bottom of the engine etc.

  • Like 1
Posted
58 minutes ago, wraith said:

Yes the b6 sprocket cover goes straight on, instead of buying a proper push rod, get some 6mm round bar and cut that to size. I think the standard gsx1100f was about 102mm (without going and checking so maybe different) but a good start point.

The only way to find out about the clutch, is to have a look, always worthwhile with a unknown motor to remove the sump as well and have a look in the bottom of the engine etc.

I found the one in the donor B6 engine, I will measure that one.  Thanks for the information.  I assumed I would have to get the covers off this one.  The carbs are fairly clean judging by the bellmouths, and it has only done 26K miles.  It will go in storage until I get closer to done with the 750R resto, or until I fine decent running gear...

Posted

As long as the rod is roughly the right length it's not difficult to get the clutch to work correctly. This is because there is a free-play adjuster screw in the cover that mates directly onto the end of the rod. The screw can be easily changed for a longer one if required: screw in until it just touches the rod, back off 1/4 turn then tighten the lock nut.

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, Captain Chaos said:

move the output shaft while selecting another gear. As TonyGee said, clutch is not needed.

Yeah, I was hoping it was wheel bearings, rusty chain, and brake drag when I went to go pick it up.  But the gear selector won't change gears, even when trying the output shaft.  I put a wrench on the ignition side of the crank to see that the pistons moved.  Thats why I assumed the friction/steel scenario.  Oh, well, I will see once I have time to open it up.

Posted
On 11/2/2021 at 3:38 PM, Captain Chaos said:

move the output shaft while selecting another gear. As TonyGee said, clutch is not needed.

I was trying that, the sprocket/output shaft would move back and forth, but the selector wouldn't budge.

Posted

it could be a stuck selector drum if the engine has been sat for a long time ?  you can get to it with the clutch basket off and try to turn it from that side. 

if no joy then it'll probably be a crankcase split. :(

Posted

Looks like I will be doing more surgery than that.  All but two of the sprocket cover mounting bosses are either broken in half or, in the case of the one nearest the clutch push rod, broken completely off.  I can get a set of new cases off the bay, but between that and a full gasket kit and any replacement internals, this engine is pretty far on the back burner.  
 

Any advise on repairing these cases would be welcome, I think I can helicoil the broken ones, but with nothing to graft to on the center one I would bet there is some amount of deflection when the clutch is actuated.

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Posted

looks like that engine has had a hard life ???  if it was mine I'd be giving it a full strip down and having a good look inside and see how everything is before spending any cash and time on it. ;)

  • Like 1
Posted

I'd get that stripped completely and that broken part rebuilt up with weld and then drilled/retapped. As mentioned it looks like its been very unloved so i'd be opening it up to make sure the gearbox is ok and the bearings are in good order

  • Like 2
Posted
2 hours ago, davecara said:

I'd get that stripped completely and that broken part rebuilt up with weld and then drilled/retapped. As mentioned it looks like its been very unloved so i'd be opening it up to make sure the gearbox is ok and the bearings are in good order

yeah i think it makes sence, at least it doesn't cost anything to strip it. :tu

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, wraith said:

What's the white stuff on the left-hand side just above the selector?

Chemical metal?

Looks more like lifted paint and corrosion to me ?

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, wraith said:

Just thinking, has the chain snapped at some point and coursed the damage?

Not sure what it has been through in it's illustrious life, I did have to cut off the chain that was on it, but the sprocket cover had already been removed completely from the motor.  Not having the bike in front of me, just looking at the phone pictures more closely, I would say corrosion.  It's good to have it, but it is definitely a back burner project while I crack on with reassembling the R750(M) and fettling my other bike.  

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