Jump to content

Spondon no 10


clivegto

Recommended Posts

Posted

Got a set of ISR's of an old site member Banzai. They had a couple of little marks that I was able to polish out. Fitted them with some titanium bolts as the old ones were a bit tatty. IMG_20230906_192806.thumb.jpg.86b8f4ec8349adf6ce47d0e41e88b045.jpg IMG_20230906_194053.thumb.jpg.b9bf850c78d98555a09ae24f3c84d754.jpg IMG_20230906_194120.thumb.jpg.5ba569c93c7ed62953578afcf96b5dc6.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted
45 minutes ago, clivegto said:

Got a set of ISR's of an old site member Banzai. They had a couple of little marks that I was able to polish out. Fitted them with some titanium bolts as the old ones were a bit tatty. IMG_20230906_192806.thumb.jpg.86b8f4ec8349adf6ce47d0e41e88b045.jpg IMG_20230906_194053.thumb.jpg.b9bf850c78d98555a09ae24f3c84d754.jpg IMG_20230906_194120.thumb.jpg.5ba569c93c7ed62953578afcf96b5dc6.jpg

What's the reach like on these clive when on the bars?? You going to have matching calipers??

Posted
14 minutes ago, Jdeac said:

What's the reach like on these clive when on the bars?? You going to have matching calipers??

Reach seems alright, matching calipers would be nice. 

Posted
58 minutes ago, clivegto said:

Reach seems alright, matching calipers would be nice. 

Strong money for the calipers!! Wonder what combo would work good. 

Posted
On 7/28/2023 at 3:37 AM, clivegto said:

That thought had crossed my mind, unfortunately it has pockets underneath. Perhaps I could fill them with something and fit risers 

Hayabusa’s run two top yokes. The lower of the two grips the forks and the stem, the higher of the two has the bars. The top one doesn’t need to do any fork / stem work, just steers the one below it.

Not using Hayabusa parts but to make something up. Just another option. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I stumbled on a 1340cc 1100m engine les than 10 miles away from my house :D. Orient Express big block, 1340cc, 1100m flowed head, APE cylinder studs, coil spring clutch conversion and carrillo rods. Though I'd best gather it up :pimp:IMG_20231026_160749.thumb.jpg.1af4371b6b1791cb7291e0cc1149519d.jpg IMG_20231026_160755.thumb.jpg.a2d99f8cc7b12d3a55ee2f750b1199d1.jpg IMG_20231026_163409.thumb.jpg.7895d41e548b465d34848c560bce99b0.jpg IMG_20231026_163212.thumb.jpg.7b7ec7501e908be235222396e0281115.jpg IMG_20231026_165919.thumb.jpg.03151fcaa8cfb95f9fbbb54d05c5d531.jpg

  • Like 7
Posted
12 minutes ago, davecara said:

That'll be lively!

Given how far over square that is with the big block it'll scream its bollocks off. xD Sounds like the forged rods will be put to good use.

Posted
23 hours ago, clivegto said:

I stumbled on a 1340cc 1100m engine les than 10 miles away from my house :D. Orient Express big block, 1340cc, 1100m flowed head, APE cylinder studs, coil spring clutch conversion and carrillo rods. Though I'd best gather it up :pimp:

Similar Spec to mine Head on mine was done by Dom Trickett 

And i need to remove the spacer from its brief turbo &  Nos Time :pimp: 

Posted
11 minutes ago, Duckndive said:

Similar Spec to mine Head on mine was done by Dom Trickett 

And i need to remove the spacer from its brief turbo &  Nos Time :pimp: 

I need a spacer for this one  :vu:

Posted

Took the sump off for a look see, all looks fairly clean :D. There is a modification to the sump I've not seen before it has a wall welded in. Any one know why ? O.oIMG_20231027_172926.thumb.jpg.54e92b16bf9fe479f6a21b299c8e0d05.jpg IMG_20231027_172943.thumb.jpg.f48849dfc6b09a7aa8eb374dc88ef56e.jpg IMG_20231027_172954.thumb.jpg.2526a5139dafb8b582e79981d116d751.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
3 minutes ago, clivegto said:

Took the sump off for a look see, all looks fairly clean :D. There is a modification to the sump I've not seen before it has a wall welded in. Any one know why ? O.oIMG_20231027_172926.thumb.jpg.54e92b16bf9fe479f6a21b299c8e0d05.jpg IMG_20231027_172943.thumb.jpg.f48849dfc6b09a7aa8eb374dc88ef56e.jpg IMG_20231027_172954.thumb.jpg.2526a5139dafb8b582e79981d116d751.jpg

Some form of baffle plate maybe. As you say it was in a car

Posted (edited)

Tried the 5 spring clutch conversion and as I suspected the shaft is to short. Recon I could always fit a longer B12 item. Tried the lock-up for size and I think there's no way in hell it'll fit in the frame with that bolted on :/ maybe it'll work with all new fibers and steels with 5 extra heavy duty springs. IMG_20231027_180123.thumb.jpg.25ab6ebcddc99a3c29f8cfb47f4ae976.jpg IMG_20231027_181126.thumb.jpg.8c5dbdc15343d487223965c3e14371ca.jpg IMG_20231027_182200.thumb.jpg.20ea61643785dc68971799e5b393803a.jpg

Edited by clivegto
  • Like 1
Posted
34 minutes ago, Duckndive said:

Even with an oil boiler in those frames are not very doing engine work friendly :S 

I know, have sat and looked at it for quite a while now O.o

  • Like 1
Posted
6 hours ago, Duckndive said:

Even with an oil boiler in those frames are not very doing engine work friendly :S 

Often so but this isn't as much a pain-in-the-arse as it first seems. Both may Harris and Spondon framed bikes need the engine to be removed in order to take the cam cover off but the lack of a frame cradle means that after removal of the ancillaries and the engine mounting bolts, the chassis can be simply lifted easily off the engine (when engine is securely supported). With practice this is pretty fast an easy, especially with help from someone who knows their way around bikes.

Some P and M frames require the cylinder head to be removed in order to get the engine in and out though, which seems bonkers to me.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Got a bit of motivation from the Steve Burns one for sale so thought I'd see about shifting the engine over to the left as it wasn't central which will give me a bit more room to get the clutch cover off. I left the motor in until now for the turbo mockup. Recon I can move the lump 10mm which should at least give me room to get the clutch cover off. Whipped the engine out for a look see :DIMG_20231209_123732.thumb.jpg.c1bbf2499096693b991e74a4dfdabb6f.jpg IMG_20231209_130246.thumb.jpg.4592ac29416cfcd34d164ca0d82b4781.jpg IMG_20231209_145308.thumb.jpg.f11807b6ea0ad554ff1bb36bd83c89b7.jpg IMG_20231209_145330.thumb.jpg.a8724a8972537ba65033db9798c3dcdd.jpg IMG_20231209_150226.thumb.jpg.ac6d121bfb62903f1eda12b72717f701.jpg IMG_20231209_151258.thumb.jpg.fb5fa47c8e6ba27f955e9cbdabc5395f.jpg IMG_20231209_152503.thumb.jpg.a3a47c401ba15c947fc32e4a5ecaa7e2.jpg IMG_20231209_161409.thumb.jpg.89dfc644f2b0082b98970302fd3e08eb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

So the bottom back engine mounts on the frame were only 10mm which had 1/2 snapped bolt in when I took the motor out. Drilled them out to 12mm and found a suitable bolt for it. Previous owne had cut the top right (in pic) engine mount down at an angle and had a penny washer in there as a spacer. I squared it up which gives me an extra hole 3mm movement to the left for the engine. Just for fun I tried the back Dymag for size in this swinging arm setup and it don't look to be a million miles away :)IMG_20231211_164144.thumb.jpg.c4f2182b56e7d0a396d2f2ca593cad31.jpg IMG_20231211_170513.thumb.jpg.94ce81030b2df6e61bfdd1123597540c.jpg

  • Like 3

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...