Gammaboy

If you get one of the series ones, it drops the oil temperature of the motor by about 10degrees - the shunt type (99% of reg/recs) dumps the current back through the stator coils and generates heat - it's why stator coils always look like they've gotten really hot - it's because they have. The series ones do run a bit hotter themselves, about 50-60degrees, so they always feel really toasty.

So, what's it weigh, and out of curiosity what's the wheelbase on it?

.95 springs work nicely for me - 90ish kg, bike is relatively light at ~205kg dry give or take.

Sure do. Bandit sprockets are a cheap and easy 530 upgrade, I think modern GSXR 520 conversions are the same front sprocket spline.

There's a boss on the bottom of the GSXR triple that sits against the upper bearing nuts - he skimmed it flush with the rest of the triple.- I think he knocked a mm off of each nut too - he was chasing every possible mm without going to blade triples or fork extenders. These things have so much friggin rake that if you've got modern triples you can really get them nose down without getting into trouble with headshakes... just use a bubble level app on yer iphone to check the steering head angle. fer example - current stance of mine - cranked round to 26* head angle, contemplating going further. (oh yeah, I'm running a jockey wheel on the bottom chain run as well - just tidys the chain up a bit when the bike is at rest and unloaded, and controls the flap a bit on the move - works great)

Measured mine up the other night - compared to stock I'm running an 18" rear vs factory 17", 18" front vs factory 19", my swingarm is almost 1" deeper, and my shocks are near on 40mm longer, forks are dropped 1" as well - gives me 26* head angle and 98mm of trail (vs OEM 30 degrees and ~118mm) - works pretty well, no steering damper needed. 0.95 springs in the front, rear is the springs as per whatever my XJR1300SP Ohlins came with, damping set up to suit. Someone will probably be along with something with modern forks for comparison. Can also probably sneak some measurements to compare for you. Mate of mine has a stock framed kat, stock swinger, same XJR1300SP ohlins, stock K1/2 GSXR1000 forks that he's eeked another 5mm of effective length out of by skimming the bottom of the top triple, 17" BSTs, no steering damper, works magic.

Not the same as EFE - 1170 is the biggest without swapping out sleeves.

L/M/N will fit. If you've got a busa arm in it, it means you've already done the spacer in a spacer trick for the bearings, but still have a 20mm axle - so L/M/N, WN/WP will fit, WR/SRAD/BUSA/Kseries/Lseries will fit with the spacer in a spacer job.

Oh, and SRAD/Busa/K series GSXR will bolt in with linkage swaps (and the bushing as per a WR swinger swap) , all are longer than W series 750 swingers from memory, K6 onwards are longer than W1100 I think, K8 onwards are really fucking long. (I researched the shit out of swingarm swaps for my aborted WP project)

Ahh fuck, wrote that the wrong way round, WN AND WP is the same size as oil cooled (20mm I think), WR (the braced one) is bigger, 24mm I seem to recall. Was chasing my 2 1/2 y/o around a playground while trying to write that earlier post.

Wn & Wp bolt is the same size as oil cooled, WR is bigger

Cheers guys.

To try to stop the end of the crank being snapped off.

Bugger - was hoping for 195mm and 35mm...

Cany anyone tell me what the offset and centre to centre spacing on the RWU Slingshot triples is?

Can someone measure the length of their TL-S rear brake torque arm for me? Thanks!

RF900 carbs are ~36mm downdrafts - flat out not going to fit in an oil cooled frame.

WT? as in the post 94 W/C 1100? Just put the 750 cams in it.

ES cam has more lift and duration from memory. Might obstruct the lugs on the gsx tank - Kat tank mounts slightly differently and should clear. Didn't even realise it was minus the side to side tube above the front engine mounts - there's a bit more bracing you can do in there too (couple of diagonals into the centre of the horizontal tube, then diagonals back out to just above the bottom corner of the down tubes.

Pyramid bracing is less stiff if the diagonals of a flat x-brace are going to be in compression or tension, however if you're twisting the sides then it can be stiffer than a flat brace - *but* you'd need to complete the pyramid by adding a horizontal tube just behind the engine mounting points. The latest version of bracing the headstock that I've seen (on one of the front runners in the historics down here) is a pair of tubes running from the headstock to the bend in the top tube - from side on they're completely parallel with the steerer "spine". When I eventually pull mine apart and tweak the frame a bit more, I'm going to do that one as well - I believe the tank tunnel has plenty of room in that area.

I think ZX9 pistons are 79mm with an 18mm pin? I've got a set at home somewhere...

94 got the the brackets when they put the chassis on a diet - they needed to pick the stiffness up after thinning down the wall sections of the extrusions and casting of the earlier frame. I suspect they do make a difference.

There's 2 variants of XJR Ohlins - theres the genuinely Yam OEM Kwality non adjustables, and there the fully adjustables - which I am very happy with. Of course, if you're happy with a set of Chinese non adjustables, go for it.

From front on the Harris Mag fairing always made me think of this dude from Star Wars: http://jerryjonestownmassacre.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/635px-Nien_Nunb.jpg

Yamaha XJR1300SP has fully adjustable Ohlins - Find a set, swap the eyelet bottom for a fork bottom and they're a great upgrade - they wind up about 340mm centre to centre though. I found mine on Yahoo.JP Auctions. Wound up about half the price of new ones.