Gammaboy

Machen sie schnell mit dem Photos!

This is the traditional drawing, but I added a couple of extra tubes at G (Works better on the early frames that don't have the big engine mount brackets like in the picture). Also, I ran the tubes at A towards the fairing side mounts instead of into the middle of the yellow tube.

You don't have something wierd going on like one of the guys on the Aussie Katana forum - someone had stuffed SZ plates into an SD (or vice versa) - the springs and plate thicknesses are different....

Because I can't trust my lathe do give me an adequate surface finish, I dropped my spare GSX Starter gear off today at a gear cutting workshop who have the gear for cylindrical grinding - they're going to let me know if they think it's through hardened, if not, it's off for case hardening or nitriding. Recieved my Chinabay stator on friday too.

I have heard of the "heavy duty" backing plates wearing through the chamfer before - the folded tangs on the stocker are better in this regard. CNC a backing plate with pockets for the springs that are fully enclosed and ship it off for heat treatment? will stop the springs escaping, but will make inspection harder!

H*nda front discs?

Photos?

Anyone ever seen a dry clutch conversion for a GSX11 motor?

Didn't he use a SV1000 engine? The red bike's engine is a bit different, and has a different mounting arrangement in the V.

On the temp forum there was a thread about converting the diaphragm clutches using ~06ish GSXR Clutch Hubs from memory.

Just got my Rotor out of the US - will see how things go - need to buy some more rigid tooling for the lathe.

The racebikes run Keihin CRs because the rules specifically ban flatslides (and i think accelerator pumps). I know one guy with CRs on a road bike, the rest of us use RS Mikunis - with the pump set up right you can snap the RS flatslides open anywhere over 4,000rpm and the get up and go. The CRs without the pump have to be opened smoothly or they bog. Unless you're talking FCRs, Keihins aren't the way to go.

That's an excellent improvement!

Yeah, you can't nitride cast iron, which is what stock A-series cranks are... Been messing with steel cranked motors for long enough that I'd forgotten that! Phosphor bronze spacer - I assume it's thicker than the stock unit? We have hijacked the thread a little, however, the answer to the OPs question does lie in here - small diameter Katana flywheel is the same as GN125...

US Eblag - but because the Aussie dollar is bombing, it's costing me ~$180 AUD shipped... it's rotor, sprag and starter gear, so have the whole lot to play with, and being a 2011, it's got the later hex bolts (saw a 07 with mullered socket heads for double the price - muppets). I can get the same stator out of China shipped for just under $100AUD - but will see how the GSX unit goes first. Good to hear it's through hardened - and I was thinking about the sprag itself - the gear is running on the needles of the stock setup, and the starter rollers are out of contact care of centrifugal force - i imagine the GSXR sprag rollers pull up under centrifugal force too. Nitriding gives plenty of surface hardness and can be applied to pretty much any steel - it's likely to cause less distortion than case or through hardening which is why I mentioned it - the stock gear isn't nitrided because its not black.

It's no biggy really, an engine reconditioner who can grind cranks can do it and sort the nitriding, will investigate once mine shows up, have a spare starter gear to play with.

So, talking to a mate, he reckons the GSX starter gears are case hardened rather than through hardened, and we'll have to get the gear re-case-hardened/Nitrided to get the surface hardness back. @coombehouse Did it get easier to machine once you were in a mm or two?

So, a quick rundown of dimensions Standard ET rotor OD: 130mm ID 105mm Depth (measured internally) 35mm. GSXR rotor: OD 118mm ID 108mm Depth (measured internally) 27.5mm I suspect the backing plate on the GSXR rotor is thinner, not being rivitted together out of 2 pieces like the ET rotor... Katana/750 rotor (Rotors and stators are pretty easy - GN125 apparently!, cases to take the small stator are rare as hens) OD: 118mm ID: 95mm Depth (internally) 35mm I wonder if the ET stator will work spaced inwards? All told, looks a lot easier than Arnouts epic of ungluing magnets, narrowing the housing, and machining things down to gain an extra 1/2"... Just ordered a 2011 750 rotor and sprag, will try it with a spaced GSX stator first.... Much easier than the 3XV TZR250 rotor i was contemplating (105mm OD, 92mm ID)

They're tough, but high mileage roller bearing cranks start lifting the hard chrome from the oil hole drillings. I think in my case the crank failure was driven by the welded/ground cams spitting an inclusion out... whatever way you cut it, I was down a few crank bearings, and the cams and rockers were trashed (bearing material wound up blocking the oil feeds in the rocker shafts)

Hey, there was plenty of bearing metal in the bottom of the cases - it was all hardchrome slivers though. Oh, and bits of cam lobe and rocker pad...

Interesting to note that the later (2011ish on?) bikes did away with the button heads and went to a normal hex bolt.

I thought it looked like the kind of debris you get from plain bearing failure - when my GSX1100 crank ate it's bearings it looked nothing like that! I certainly don't recognise the big brass? chunks!

Does that Vernier say 39.99? Anyone remember off the top of their head the diameter of the small Katana flywheel? Oh, and what's the PCD on the 6 socket heads that bolt it to the sprag?

750 plain bearing engine?

Oh, meant to ask - what angle is that taper? Also - were you starting with a small crank, or the later Big ended crank (EFE etc)? What size is the puller thread? How much lighter than stock do you reckon it all is?