baldrick

get yourself a decent stud extractor and it will come out pretty easily. some on the crankcase heat helps break the seal. or stick a nut over the stud and fill the pool with weld, then it will wind out with a socket

tlr is hydraulic and tls is cable, so you will need master cylinder etc, but yes its straight forward.

brand new aftermarket coils for a gsxr are only about 40 quid on the bay of eeeeeee scrub that, they are also glued in by the looks of it. what about just using some red heatshrink over the standard wires.

did you notice much improvement with the r1 shock installed? ive got a couple of tls too and a shock sitting on the bench.

lovely powercurve, straight up, no dips etc. Tuner obviously knew what they were doing.

I did say "ball park". Given that probably 90% of members are around sea level , using unleaded etc.

not trying to complicate matters, but would it be an idea to put jetting settings up, for the commonly asked questions ? I fully realise there is no substitute for dyno time, im more thinking "ballpark figures" for the usual suspects, i.e.what size pilot, main jetting, needle clip etc for my gsxr with a race pipe and k&ns, for like 36's 38's 40's etc. Or am I opening up a minefield here?

yes

Thanks mate, I know the gap you are on about. between battery box and surrounding plastic shroud.. Top right of the pic below. that 'was one of the locations where I was looking to put mine. The surround is quite flimsy so I think I will make a lightweight bracket to mount it off.

thanks mate. Calling Captain Chaos...

hello, as the title says, does anyone know if this is an easy transplant (RF wheels, discs etc into std efe forks an swingarm?) cheers

and the 750m ones don't have the drain plug, 750L does, and both l and m 750s do have the powerjet tube between float bowl and top of carb body at intake 1100L has 36s not 40s. the M and N have 40s tho. great article though, thanks for taking the time. this is long overdue, and will be very helpful.

yeah I think you are right. im keeping the airbox, M models are a huge pain in the arse to set up properly without it. I will pull it all round to the left hand side I(as you sit on the bike think and mount it, and just extend the thinner cables. Think it will be on the front of the battery box to save it getting covered in road crud etc. thanks for your help

anyone? where did you put it? #

so does mine most of the time, so I have to make use when ive got him

hello, im in the process of training my slave child to replace shocks (its much easier than doing it yourself, and little fingers are great for finding relay bolts etc.). hes wondering where to relocate the starter relay etc from the underside of the battery box to? hes not up to soldering yet, so somewhere he doesn't have to chop the wires out preferably. Where have you all put yours? pictures are good. cheers

I remember that black and yella thing too. did he not chop great chunks out of the frame to make it fit? it looked pretty dangerous, …..and shit to be honest, imo

black and red punching stripe for the win, just paint the fairing to match

this will be good, im in.. whats the story with the engine in the bucket? good luck with it.

I don't know why the Japanese factories spend so much on R & D, when clearly some bloke in his shed knows better. why would you shorten the pistons? why would you shorten the liners? did you weight match them? Are you aware that they are a specific length to prevent rocking etc?

falicon stroker crank will increase the stroke.