baldrick

how did it go on the dyno mate, what sort of bhp did you see? brave move using the standard loom, i was dicking about with mine and couildnt get over how thin guage a load of wires on it were. i also found a few that were broken inside the sheathing...they were fun to find...not.

yes i know but i was wondering if the ohlins shocks for gsxr 750/1000 fitted hayabussas

Hi Anybody know if shocks are interchangable between say gsxr 1000 and hayabusa? thanks

i look forward to seeing how you modify it, good luck, great find.....

i am not certain but i doubt the bandit carbs would fit the std airbox, so i would go with a set of mikuni rs36 flatslide carbs, a decent exhaust, like the hindle, and a good flow/port of the head to let it breath. the cams wont make a hugely noticable difference for the money, but if you insist, go with a set of kent "fast road" profile cams. i wouldnt bother skimming the head or bigger valves, the returns are minimal compared to the cost

can i ask, whats the benefit of a cable clutch over the hydraulic one, out of interest?

just as an aside, the paint codes listed will draw nothing more than confused looks from most paint shops. 13L is a Mazda colour, for example, unless its a specific bike painters you wont get far.

Just the warm glow of satisfaction, knowing you've helped a brother out.

Ok, let's continue the game, any ideas on this. I'm thinking srad possibly, early gsxr 1000, I dunno? Came with a job lot

yes it is, with extender. heres one from fleabaaay cheers all.mystery solved, its getting flogged

yeah ive had a look on bay, i think its maybe a early 600 bandit, fitted with an extender. bandit 12 has flat mount on top this ones curved.

Any help identify this front mudguard. I'm thinking possibly bandit or sv..???

Doh! cheers for clearing that up, in all the years ive had these ive never even noticed before, worra nugget eh ?

I feel it's worth doing. I must admit that I'm also doing it because a liner has a very smalll bit of damage, way below the piston contact path, and it was only when I looked at it I remember, I think pdq, or some other reputable tuning company do it and mention it was well worth doin tbh.

Too true. I remember reading an article years ago about it and said tuner deemed it worthwhile, so I'm gonna do it. Thanks for your answers.

looks good, just needs a bit of a trim at the front maybe

ive been waiting for a parcel sent on the 12th. my sympathy for them is going down the drain......get back to work you lazy caaaaaants

hello, Way back in the midst of time i remember reading about some tuning houses "windowing "the bottom of the barrel liners, in an attempt to reduce pumping losses. This usually involved die grinding, i presume, material off the liners, below the travel of the pistons, between 1 and 2 cyl and again between 3 and 4. this was in the shape of a sort of square/rectangle, with rounded corners iirc. AFAIK, the idea was to reduce pumping losses and, allegedly, it did in fact help with power increases, although it was pretty marginal . Anyone ever done thisor have any direct experience of what was involved, amount removed etc. Cheers

Good information, thanks. I'll have to get looking for a decent set of barrels without the usual chipped fins etc.

thanks fellas

anyone?

hi, im on the hunt for a set of barrels / pistons for a project, its a gsx-f 1100 engine. just wondering what else fits it? i think slabby ones are shorter arent they? anyone know?

r6 shock also works iirc

Any recommendations for reboring? Sorry for the hijack

so the studs are obviously too short if torqueing them down means not enough thread left up top? or are you running spacer plates etc? if not then whats the answer? Maybe threadlock the bottom studs, but dont torquue them, leaving enough thread up top? im asking because i have a set of these to install at some point/#?