KATANAMANGLER

Respect to anyone who spanners all day and then still retains the gumption to do their own thing after ours.

Yes it's true I am but a mere gifted amateur who likes to fiddle. Glad I don't have to fix other people bikes though. That sounds like hard work

It's true though we cant help ourselves even when the performance gains are marginal and the reliability is compromised. One day we'll see sense and leave them alone when they are working ( maybe)

Stop trying to ruin all the pointless fiddling fun

Standard cams with slotted sprockets properly dialled in work really well.

This is definitely a build that is taking the road less travelled. Good to see someone not afraid to make it up as they go along.

RS38 might be a bit big RS36 would work better.

That is absolutely beautiful. Spokies and the tank cut outs. It's too much for one post.

Ta

@Jaydee could you post he link in requests for the vault as a reminder to republish it there. Ta KM

Keeping the valves up is your challenge. You need the valve locked to compress the spring and remove the retainer and collets.There is a snap on set up that puts compressed air into the spark plug hole to charge the cylinder and keep the valves up and a tool that compresses the spring and removes the collets. Ask Yoshi Johnny. Personally I would just remove it and check the seats too. If it's been burning oil down through the oil seals it will be coked up. You can clean it and check the seats when it's off.

Ian there are lots of free apps for the iPad that allow simple resizing. For example https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/simple-resize/id327776379?mt=8

Spitting back through the carbs would suggest a lean idle circuit. Have you tried richening the idle circuit? Could also be caused by an air leak have you checked all the boots for leaks?

Ahh the car park party. My head still spins and my stomach convulses at the memory. Sometimes I swear I can still hear the carousel music and smell the sweet sickly whiff of Matt's over generous vodkas and orange.

You can have them rebuilt by IKON @Deeds had his done a few years back.

Very tidy repair and a very reasonable price.

Really nice to see an EFE powered Spondon. Understandably in terms of availability many have been fitted with oil cooled engines.

I got some ally welding done on a set of crank cases by a local engineering company a couple of years ago and it cost me £30. Worth phoning around to find out what it would cost. Doesn't cost anything to find out.

It's the valve seats themselves that are the critical area. Are you planning to strip the valves out and inspect the valves and seat contact surfaces? Be careful with the dremel that you don't take anything off the flat mating surfaces of the head around and between the valves. The broken exhaust port needs to be ally welded.

Not knowing my 8 valve technology very well. would the an EFE starter motor and intermediate starter gear fit the starter clutch? This works for the ET engines when they are slow to turn over.

Yes it's quite common on the ET with 1170 kits. The answer , I believe, is to fit and EFE starter motor and intermediate starter gear . This solves the the problem. @Deeds did this just a couple of weeks ago because he had the same problem on his 1170 ET.

Something very satisfying when you get it running. Is it a UK spec thou Mark?

I have only ever dialled in standard cams on slotted sprockets and I have only ever gone as far as 110 IN 110 Ex . They were in reach of the slots. I didn't need to to jump a pin but I have been told by others who are in the know that pin count is not essential as long as you have calculated TDC accurately and your degree wheel is showing you are getting the correct lobe centre calculations with good repeatability. Hopefully someone who has actually been there will confirm.

RS 34s would work a treat.too

Good point. They're probably still watching your gaff. You aint seen me ...right?