KATANAMANGLER

I was about to ask what the drilled recess was. It's not a million mile from the fault line.

Generally speaking those head studs just stretch anyway but it sounds like your under at that rather than over. BTW didn't mean to imply your man was without mechanical finesse. I'm sure he has forgotten more than a civilan like me will ever know. It was just a question in the interests of establishing why the stud housing is cracking. I once set a torque wrench to Lbs ft while reading a Nm table lets just say I never had a leak on that head

I run 1230 on my EFE engine in my Kat. It gets caned mercilessly and I've never seen any signs of a problem in that area. I have had another 1230 before that as well as a couple of standard motors and I've never seen that.. What torque settings are you using on the head?

I've had quite a few of these engines normally running at around 125 BHP and I have never seen one go there. It's the drag boys that test the cases to destruction and I'm sure they would be a better source of data on the standard cases' weakest points but then they are running 200+ BHP.

Does seem suspicious that they both went in the same place. As you say it could be the crank as it's the common denominator . What sort of power is the engine putting out?

Mine is a flat plate not boxed. If you hang on until the end of the year. Our GSX frame bracing Guru Stragewayz should hopefully have completed a detailed how to for us. ( he did the Lucky 7 frame too) The undertray in JohnR's picture is a Lucky7 prefab too they come in two parts.

The valve is a dampener that reduces the vacuum pulse and steadies the needles on the gauges. Otherwise the pulse causes the gauge needles to flick back and forth without a reading. First thing is first you should ensure the gauges are calibrated correctly. DO this by connecting one gauge at a time to the same vacuum take of on the bike. This way you can make sure that the gauges are all giving the same reading on a single source.Use the the little valve taps to adjust the dampening so the needles are steady but dont over tighten them or you will close the valve and get no vacuum signal. After that you can go ahead and connect them to the separate vacuum outlets safe in the knowledge that the readings will be accurate. Make sure the engine is nice an hot. Set an elevated tick-over of 1500 revs and balance. After balance as you rev the engine the needles should rise and fall to to same points.

Did you see this?

The Bandit 6 wheel will go in with the existing arm. You will need to make spacers and possibly shave the sprocket carrier face to get the chain run right but nothing major.

The bandit 12 swinger works well with a couple of shock mounts welded on. Lucky7 do prefabed mounts for the job.

Lemon squeezy.

Thanks chaps. The main thing is it's doable. I may have some additional questions once I get going.

Cheers Viz.

I have 6" 1st generation Busa wheel and I'm contemplating puting it into a Slabby I'm building. I don't have the frame and swing arm here yet so I ask the question in advance: What are going to be my major challenges here ( spacers and spindle issues aside) chain run on the frame? Tyre clearance on the swingarm? Caliper position? All of the above? i've read that the 5.5" wheel is an easier option and a 6" wheel is a major ball ache. So what's the score?

And some more...

Here's mine.

Cheers John Steve and I are already quite far down the road now. He's going to fine it a bash

I have PMd Steve to find out if he is interested in an OSS trader agreement. I'll keep you posted.

John's a plumber they know more about PTFE and blocked tubes than most.

That looks great. Good choice.

Personally I have never rated after market friction plates. Tried the EBC plates once and I found they slipped a lot when the bike was cold and dragged when it got hot. I switched back to OEM ( they cost more for a reason) and the problem disappeared. That's just my personal experience.

How old is the cable? If its frayed, stretched and unwinding it can have the same effect.

might have to put knobblies on the Katana.

The basics are covered. Bigger engine.Better wheel size and subsequent improvement in tyre choice.Front end change gives you better brakes.Improved performance, improve handling and improved stopping power. What's not to like.

Just saying......