[Swirl's Harris]

8 hours ago, 370steve said:

thats not the way i read it!! but thats half the problem with MOT, too many variables in how to interpret them!!

 

I agree, MOT tester has no acces to a V5 or anything that would tell them when the vehicle was first used, or what declared date of manufature is.

[Swirl's Harris]

It all depends on if the Q plate v5 has a declared year of manufacture on it, if it does then legally it must comply to the standards applicable to that year, if it doesnt its treated as pre 71 regs.

However for getting an MOT its treated 1975 emossions, and 1971 for everything else iirc. 

So it will go through an MOT but isnt legal

Had it with my old Harris because it had a declared year i couldnt run black and silver plate and had to have indicators.

[Slingshot swingarm upgrade]

1 hour ago, Toddy64 said:

Thanks for that, i will indeed try without the spring. I raced a CBR600 way back in the 90s and remember too well the faff setting up suspension

Could you remember what 20mm rear spindle you used as the 1100K one is 315mm compared to the 28mm 750K1 item which is 330mm?

Used k1 wheeks in my slingy so spindle wasnt an issue, may have been a zx6/zx9 one i used in HUC, couldnt be 100% though, i have many many random things in my lockup that im not exactly sure where they come from. I just usually manage to find what i need.

[Slingshot swingarm upgrade]

9 hours ago, Toddy64 said:

Much appreciated Mean Bean, I apologise in advance as i may badger you again as the job unfolds. 

Similarly to yourself I’m working with the Slingshot Linkage and have an Ohlins shock (not sure if the length is adjustable mind) and it looks like the dog bones i will need are about 15 degrees off the horizontal, so not sure how that will work on the spring?

Its quite a while since i build my race bike, cant remember what spring rate i ended up with, did have to change it a couple of times to get it right.

Its also worth fitting everything with no shock spring fitted to shock. Lets you move it through the whole range of movement to make sure its all ok.

I raced mine for 2 years after getting it setup how i wanted with no problems at all

[Slingshot swingarm upgrade]

43 minutes ago, Toddy64 said:

Hi Mean Bean / Gentlemen

Newbie to the group, but been running my 1100k for 20+ years.
Inspired by some of the stuff I see on here, so took the plunge and got a 750 K1 arm off Eblag for a bit of a winter project.

As I’m also using the original Slingshot wheel and spindle, i notice there is an 20mm gap using the standard spacers as the K1 arm is 20mm wider. I’m not sure how to align the wheel/sprockets, so wondered if you remember what spacers you used, I’m thinking 10mm each side looks about right, but really don’t know?

Thanks in advance

 

Im not 100% sure but iirc the disc side is the same distance from inside face of swingarm to wheel centre, so you just need 20mm thicker spacer on sprocket side.

[OSS trackdays.]

2 hours ago, Kamikaze said:

good cause besides Rene, we need someone else to bring the slingy numbers up. HAHAHAHAHA

Also got @Allspeedson a slightly tweaked slingy too

[OSS trackdays.]

Im hoping to get out more than my one track evening this year.

Just need to pull my finger out snd build my sling

[Dry block big bore turbo oiling issue]

9 minutes ago, TiZiK said:

The oil gallery that normally feeds the head is indeed blocked. I tapped it and blocked it with a 12mm length set screw with red loctite. 

The valve springs are from APE so i agree that it shouldn't be a problem. Was just a thought that was passing through my mind. 

When I initially installed the top end Oiler kit, I didn't use the valve cover ports. That was the first set of rockers cooked. I then connected them to see if that was the issue. Guess not. 

 

@meanbean Do you mean the line i used from the main gallery to the top end Oiler kit? It's a -3 I believe. 

I searched my previous posts and apparently I posted about this a while back as well. One chap mentioned that there are 2 holes in the valve cover circuit that can be blocked off which helps increase the oil pressure as well. 

Any thoughts on that?

Personally I would re-instate the valve cover lines from the crank case, they are for cooling the head, not having them is a bad thing, head will overheat and wreck stuff.

I would also remove the cam feed from the valve cover, without the low pressure supply going in all your doing is removing oretty much all of the high pressure supply to any of the motor.

Suzuki got the oil system pretty spot on, best thing to do is leave it as intended

[Dry block big bore turbo oiling issue]

13 hours ago, TiZiK said:

Hey folks. Been awhile since I've been here. Also been awhile since I worked on my project. I have a slabby that I've installed a APE gorilla block on. I had to dry block it. I installed a set of top end Oilers from Dave at Fast by Me. 

I fed the top end Oilers from the main oil gallery and also the oil port in the valve cover.  The turbo (Holset HY35) is also fed from the main gallery. 

My issue is top end oiling. I think I squeaked another set of rockers and cams. 

Had anyone else dry blocked an 1100 (1052) and added a turbo? How did you solve the oiling issues?

I also installed heavy duty valve springs which also has me thinking the spring rate may me too high.

I'm thinking myself in circles right now and need some outside chatter to make sense of it all. 

 

TIA

Feeding from the valve cover as well as the main gallery could be your problem.

Your actually lowering the oil pressure to the entire high pressure oil system, (crank included) by connecting into to the low pressure system. There is virtually no pressure at the point you have tapped into. You high pressure feed from the main gallery wil bleed off into it rather than the low pressure flow into cams.

Also woth checking the internal diameter of the main gallery feed pipe, if its smaller than the size of the jet that sits in the oil way between crank case and barrels it will be restricting flow, or if its bigger could alter things too. The ideal is to have a feed to either side with pipe the same cross sectional area as the standard oil ways and with a jet the same size as standard in the pipe in similar position to the one in the cases

[Shock questions - K4 Swingarm in 1100L frame]

5 hours ago, 1989year said:

Yes I’ve done the same 

but have no travel up and down 

or limited travel 

can’t work it out yet

Are you getting to the point the linkages are parallel with the linkage? That will stop it being able to move. You would need a longer shock to lower the linkage and extend the dog bones.

I had an ohlins in mine and it was set really long to get it to work

[Shock questions - K4 Swingarm in 1100L frame]

9 hours ago, 1989year said:

Do you have a picture of this 

cheers sean

 

[BST36SS Carb parts]

1 hour ago, MeanBean49 said:

Could be lean, ive just been helping a mate sort his out, was doing the same thing, we ended up with his needles on the bottom clip and with 4 washers as well as the plastic doughnut to get it running well.

He had done the same, all new everything, could be from the same supplier, possibly an issue with the parts

Worth a go, i ordered a bag of 2.5mm washers so i could shim it lots easily. 

[BST36SS Carb parts]

34 minutes ago, Tombola said:

Thats lean right? 
@MeanBean49
@Gixer1460

Could be lean, ive just been helping a mate sort his out, was doing the same thing, we ended up with his needles on the bottom clip and with 4 washers as well as the plastic doughnut to get it running well.

He had done the same, all new everything, could be from the same supplier, possibly an issue with the parts

[BST36SS Carb parts]

2 hours ago, Tombola said:

I didn't think it would because moving the needle didn't make a difference but I will replace them.

When you say link pipe you are referring to the exhaust right?

 

Yeah exhaust where link pipe goes into the colletor

[BST36SS Carb parts]

1 hour ago, Tombola said:

I’m clutching at straws because I took it the next needle clip down anyway. Someone take a look at this photo of the needle assembly, theres a washer between the slide and needle bushy bit. I don’t have those washers... I know someone’s been at these carbs before as originally one carb had that top hat bit that applies spring pressure onto the needle missing!

if someone has a set of bst36ss handy to do a quick measurement on how thick that washer is I really would appreciate it.   

 

That washer wont make the difference between it running perfectly and an unrideable piece if crap, only makes a marginal difference, they are about half as thick as the gap between needle clips.

Could be worth comparing your new emulsion tubes to the old ones, theres 2 versions of 36mm carb, gsxr and bandit and iirc the emulsion tubes will fit either carb but are different and will mess with fueling if they are the wrong ones.

Wirth checking the link pipe too though for piece of mind

[BST36SS Carb parts]

24 minutes ago, Tombola said:

It’s hard to see in a picture but when you have them in your hand you can see that the taper is deformed, almost like the metal is too soft or the taper has been cut right. I’m not sure what seat into I assume it’s just a hole? 

 

How does it ride? Quite common for bandits to pop and bang because of the join between downpipes and link pipe not sealing or cracking. If it rides ok I would look elsewhere from the carbs

[Gsx400x Impulse problems]

3 hours ago, Leblowski said:

Mucho problemo's with my sons Impulse.

This bike stood for about two years and needed some work.

So i did valveclearence, ultrasone the carbs, new needles and seats, new pilotjets. Adjusted floatheight checked compression wich is just above the limit. Inletrubbers checked also they are fine.

I have some problems with it.

Yes it starts direct on the button but only runs perfect idle once it warms up a bit It starts only without the choke if you pull the choke it stalls.

I did a testride and it runs very good once warm. But if you let it stall it does not want to start, only if you start long enough it comes up again with hesitation.

If it's cold it start's much better.

I checked the plugs they where burnt clean not Black so looks very lean.

So i think it runs very rich cold and once warm it runs very lean.

 

I checked everything on the bike and kind on in the dark here.

 

What am i missing ??

 

 

 

 

Have you tried some new spark plugs in it? The 400's are terrible for plugs going off and affecting running, particularly idle and when warm. You will see a spark at the plug but they go weak really easy. After having similar issues with a bandit 4 years ago and wasting days going over everything else, its always the 1st thing I try when my 400's start running shit

[Harris Magnum 2 build]

1 hour ago, caferacerdan said:

yup definitely need a good day and a tailwind but thats my goal!
 

Unfaired at pendine would be a good one to get! Think you go 180+ last time didnt you?

178 is my best at Pendine, not had the weather since then to run a long enough course to get close.

[Harris Magnum 2 build]

52 minutes ago, caferacerdan said:

I have my turbo slabby for real top speed work and wheelie comps so the turbo bug will be tamed by that for a while!

My good friend Bob Cornforth owns the current record in class at 163mph with no fairings and 145hp on his Triumph Daytona 1200 fighter

If I can match his power with a bit less weight my hope is with the right gearing and a tail wind I can get close

I will get the fairing mounted over the next couple of weeks whilst the motor gets built. 

I love Bobs Daytona, like following his escapades on the FB pages.

I reckon Bobs record is achievable in the right conditions.

I still want to be the 1st to do 200 at Pendine unfaired. Thats another where I think the conditions need to be perfect

[Harris Magnum 2 build]

1 hour ago, Dezza said:

But 200 bhp isn't 150 hp, which seems realistic from a normally aspirated breathed-on GSX engine. The point being to go 175 mph with 150 bhp, my guess is some sort of fairing will be required

Thats what I was getting at, took me over 200bhp to get over 175mph, and a bucket load of torque unfaired

Also dont think 150 n/a will be enough, good to see someone having a go.

Also expect to see the project evolve to turbo or nitrous in the future to get more power

[Harris Magnum 2 build]

8 hours ago, caferacerdan said:

ive got a fairing to go on Ducati 748/916

motor parts bought...13.5:1 compression 1168cc piston kit, web high lift race cams, adjustable cam sprockets etc etc

keeping swingarm as is for now and see how i get on...i dont have to fight the higher speed wheelies or wheelspin as bad as the turbo boys.

We dont know if we dont try, all part of the fun.

Be interesting to see how you get on.

Look forward to seeing the turbo build next year 

[Forks: WAIT!!! I"ve read everything!]

4 hours ago, BenedictIreland said:

Hmmm which are nearest length and nearest stem length to WN/WP? Any idea?

 

 

Slingshots, water cooled ones, srads, busa, TL and  k series gsxr's all have pretty much the same stem length and can be fitted with nothing more than a funky sized top bearing that is available off the shelf.

[Harris Magnum 2 build]

5 hours ago, Dezza said:

You're going to need a fairing

Mine was good for over 200 with no fairing, Kearsley did over 200 too. Took nigh on 300bhp tho. And 200bhp ish to see over 175.

200ft lbs of torque at 6k helps quite a bit too. An N/A wont have anywhere near that

[metmachex swingarm wheel alignment]

1 hour ago, smudge said:

hi, thanks for the advice , like I said this is my first "proper bike build" mainly messing around with dirt bikes the last while, so any advice is welcome and appreciated, I measured like you said and I make it  somewhere between 105 and 108 depending on which carrier you use , which makes sense because there's a 2mm difference between them? I don't have the original slabby wheel to compare (Jesus I wish I did ) engines not in at the moment so can't check chain alignment , remeasured the slingy 4.5 in the swinger and it's not as off as the water-cooled 5.5 one (2.5-3mm of center to the right) if the chain alignment was right I could live with that? Was wondering if the water cooled wheel is the problem , maybe this mod only works out with the 17/5.5 slingshot wheels? I thought the backend of the bike would be the easy part!

Measurements sound about right for slingy, seem to remember a figure of 100mm, never measured a water cooled wheel, srad, busa and k series are all 110mm and if cant remember if slabby was 90 or 95 possibly.

[metmachex swingarm wheel alignment]

On 8/16/2020 at 6:29 PM, smudge said:

okay ,so after some advice I went and put the original swingarm back in with the 17/5.5 water-cooled and the 17/4.5 slingshot wheel and they to are 5mm off centre to the right ,(apologies to Metmachex) I have seen so many posts and photos of slabsides with the 17/5.5 conversion and although they do fit , are we sacrificing wheel alignment for chain/sprocket alignment? Would be interested in hearing from some one who has done this mod , thanks for all the advice and apologies for any confusion.

 

 

Its worth measuring the centre of the wheel to the inside face of the sprocket when doing anything like this, thats the measurement that matters. Thats how you know that the wheel is central and your chain run is right.

I could be wrond but seem to remember slabbies (or some of them anyway) and slingshots are different, slingy is approx 100mm, and a slabby is less, using a slingy wheel in a slabby irrelevant of the arm is going to cause alignment issues. (May just be a case of using slingy front sprocket spacer on slabby motor)

Anyway point is measure all the standard stuff and the new stuff and compare so you know what you need to achieve.

Or like loads of people do, chuck a 6" busa wheel in thats way out and just tell everyone its fine whilst riding round in a constant circle.