MeanBean49
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Posts posted by MeanBean49
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32 minutes ago, Oilyspanner said:
Something I did to quickly work out true speed in each gear _ this is for gsxr1100 k-n and b1200
Quick calculation helper numbers.
1st gear 0.25381
2nd gear 0.37099
3rd gear 0.4841
4th gear 0.58182
5th gear 0.66275
Then measure rear wheel circumference in inches - you multiply with this number.
work out final gear ratio, you divide the number by this. This give mph per 1000 rpm.
Often used final gears and ratios
14 : 48 = 3.43
15 : 48 = 3.2
15 : 47 = 3.1333
15 : 46 = 3.0667
15 : 45 = 3
Here's 4th gear speed for my bike for example.
0.58182 ÷ 3.0667 × 79.5 inches = 15.08 mph per 1000 revs
For 5th
0.66275 ÷ 3.0667 × 79.5 = 17.18 mph per 1000 rpm
All I did was work out most of the calculation minus final drive and tyre circumference , I just like working things out .... hopefully someone will find it useful too.
Or just let gearing comander work it out for you
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18 hours ago, BanditPervert said:
Luckily I have a spare set of inlet valves, (although they don’t have a lovely back cut like these) so will lap those in tomorrow.
Has anyone re used a Cometic head gasket before?
What do you mean back cut valves?
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7 hours ago, clivegto said:
You ain't a slow at all man though
Because I have loads of power
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33 minutes ago, Captain Chaos said:
It would definately help.
Although I am living proof enough horsepower does make up for a lack of talent.
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11 minutes ago, BanditPervert said:
Got the head off and all looks to be fine, chambers hold fluid ok and no bubbles.
can’t understand if that compression reading was normal. Gasket is fine and everything was torqued to the APE settings.
Looks to me that you can see on piston 2 where valves have been hitting it
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1 hour ago, Captain Chaos said:
except for those "cam to cam" oil link thingies.
All they do is add weight, reduce oil pressure and look stupid.
Beat me to it.
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5 hours ago, Neveragain55 said:
Max horse power from a 1989 GSXR1100 was 143hp @ 9500 rpm (US spec)
Max horsepower from a 1988 GSXR1100 was 125hp @ 9500 rpm (UK spec)
Just found this tonight.......never realized, it sucks on a million levels, and it's incredibly unfair.
On the other hand, Suzuki, in their infinite wisdom decided "not" to sell this bike here in the states:
Our loss, so I'd say..........we loose.
Dont believe everything google tells you.
The power figures quoted back in those days were wildly optimistic at best.
Everywhere got the same spec engine and if anything the US were lower powered sometimes because of extra emissions stuff.
My point was whenever you look at Dyno figures they generally seem to give higher readings for the same spec of bike in the US for sone reason, possibly using different correction factors or crank figures.
Its not like theres some hidden magic tuning secrets the UK doesnt know about. Not that it matters, its just a number on a bit of paper
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What base fuel pressure are you running? Also worth setting tge floats to 16mm.
Worth trying to run the bike with gravity fed fuel, will show whether its fuel pressure related or a carb issue
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2 hours ago, Neveragain55 said:
Understood, for whatever its worth this guy has been building race bikes (specifically big bore Suzuki race bikes) for about 30 years, and raced professionally all over the US. He took many trophy's home and still to this day has pro's calling him up asking for pointers & tips.
Click on the link and search for Lewis Jolly:
https://www.theautochannel.com/news/date/19980711/news014450.html
There were some other mods he did to the engine other than just the kit , and I'm not engine-tech savy enough to know exactly what he did, but every time we talk about the bike he keeps telling me to be prepared for something a hell of a lot more than what I think. (whatever that means)
I promise to post the dyno numbers once she's done which will hopefully be later on this year towards the end of the summer.
Thanks for all the advice on the sprockets.....
That explains it, they are Merican horses, always seem to need 20/30 more of them than in the UK for the same spec of motor.
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4 hours ago, Neveragain55 said:
I actually thought about that, I thought "does any of this really matter anyway because this bike is going to be un-faired and the drag will probably never allow the bike to reach the speeds a faired bike would reach".
The motor isn't stock though, she's been punched out and she has an 1186 piston kit.
My mechanic say's the engine should be pumping out roughly 170 horses, if not a little more.
We'll dyno her when she's completely assembled, and I'll report back to let you know just how much she's really putting out.
Your mechanic sound extremely optimistic, or talking crank figures.
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4 hours ago, Neveragain55 said:
Before I start, I promise all of you that I searched the internet and all types of forums for the answer to this question, but all of that research only made my head spin……..
The 1989 GSXR1100 bike had a stock tooth set up of 15T (front) 48T (rear)
The motor going into “Project X” is a modified, punched out 89 GSXR1100 Slingshot motor (1186 kit)
The wheels are from a 1995 GSXR750 (17” straight, three spoke wheels)
All of these parts will be stuffed into a modified & braced 1980 GS750 frame with modern, upside down GSXR750 front forks, and a braced JCM rear swingarm.
I’ve been instructed to go with a 14T (front) / 43T (rear) set up if I want more top end (which is what I want) without losing all of the upfront & midrange punch.
Again, the wheels are the stock 17” units, 180 (rear) / 120 (front)
All of the charts I’ve seen online put the 14T / 43T set up at a ratio of 3.07
The stock set up of 15T front / 48T rear gives it a ratio of 3.20
These ratio numbers mean nothing to me and despite all of the videos I've watched and articles I've read, my thick head still doesn't get it.
It’s very simple:
Is the 14T / 43T setup the best in terms of getting good top end (over stock) without losing too much of the lower end and midrange punch
(in other words, is it a good compromise)
As always, thanks in advance.......
Google gearing comander
Put all the details in, and play about with sprocket sizes. Will give you all the info you need
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General consensus is dynojet needles are a pain in the arse for turbo use, best off sticking to standard.
You probably could get them to work but would take way more dyno time than setting up using standard ones
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1 hour ago, wobblegob said:
Putting a 12 bandit motor in my 750j, no electrics for either motor, anybody used these motogadget m-units any good. Also what is worth using for ignition side (going to be turbo use). Cheers chaps
Dunno about motogadget stuff other than hearing its good.
Ignition wise i highly reccomend Ignitech TCIP4 full versions.
Fully programable and have loads of other features like shift light, quickshifter capability, start limiter etc.
Pretty cheap too
Give me a shout if you want any more info. I get a really good discount, have got them for lots off OSS people previously.
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
The different carb tops could only affect the lift of the slide - the centre two may be lift 'limitted' which would affect overall running esp. top end. Slides lift by vacuum / air flow depression not pressure and isn't dependant on volume - it will apply equally to big or small caps.
They do work on pressure. Thats what a vaccum is, a difference in pressure between different parts of the airflow
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If they are gsxr 36's you want to get the propper shorter plastic tops, using the bandit ones is a bad idea, the slides open too far and apart from messing the fueling up, the needles can come out of the tubes and jam on the way back down.
Gsxr tops on bandit carbs stops the slides opening fully too.
Need to have the right tops for your carbs, had the same myself before and found out whilst on dyno luckily, not on road
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18 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
So you are constantly turning it on / off whilst riding? And i've never come across a speed regulated pump - Facet or similar - without outside control hence my 'flat out comment - they pump at one speed, all or nothing!
Why would I be constantly turning it off and on, i have a pretty constant feed to my turbo with a matched constant scavenge.
Electric pump loke I use only have one speed, ON, thats its design, and its,warranted to operate in its on condition, your implying "flat out" running isxin some way goimg to affect its reliability, it doesnt, its just working as intended. Much like electric pumps used in billions of applications the world over
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
Won't an electric pump suffer equally for scavenging to fast as it is running 'flat out' all the time which isn't what is needed at idle for example. I have no preference although prefer the mechanical 'always running' pump over an electrical device, having other electrical pumps die when used in less severe situations.
Electric pump doesnt have flat out, just on or off, exactly what its designed to do.
Engine rpm is largely irrelevant, turbo gets pretty much the same oil flow through it all the time, just a case of matching your oil in to what the pump is taking away. Imo thats easier to do when your not having to deal with constantly varying pump speeds
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What Ive never understood with these pumps is how you get around the fact they are constantly changing the volume they are scavenging. Turbo is getting a relatively steady flow of oil through it and needs a pretty constant rate of scavenge.
These vary massively with rpm, way I see it thats not going to work properly either at lower rpms or higher, either not scavenging fast enough or too much and sucking turbo dry.
Realise loads of people run them but personally I will stick with a simple electric facet pump
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42 minutes ago, Allspeeds said:
Thanks mate early stages yet seat will look better after final trim but seat line follows frame rail nice got a head cooler and oil cooler to mount a new rims a 6 inches in rear so will fill swingarm nice to give it that aggressive 90s look gona have a few months burst on it then probably put it back in a corner in spring
Will get those cases dug out for you and hopefully make trip up when we are allowed. Might need my bits back off motor too, going to start getting my slingy together
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Looking good mate. Glady your doing something different with it
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Ive got a little bailey dump valve on mine, and you can hear that going off a bit at slower speeds anf mid revs, not a huge noise but its reassuring to know its working as it should
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6 minutes ago, mick-ne said:
Thanks for that, did you run a check valve in the supply line
Nope, prefered to have a brief moment of smoke on startup to let me know o had oil to the turbo
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5 minutes ago, mick-ne said:
Out of interest Rob what size restrictor did you use with VF23 I am running that Turbo I got off you on my build .Thanks
100 size mikuni main jet i ended up with
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54 minutes ago, clivegto said:
Aparantly there building there own race bike based on this frame. Do you not think it's up to the job?
If I was building a propper race bike I wouldnt want to use one without a fair bit of bracing.
But for what they are, and how they are mainly used they are great, did a track day on mine and it worked well enough in much the same way a bandit does.
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CV carbs slow to pick up in high gears?
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Stop guessing and get it setup on a Dyno.