MeanBean49
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Posts posted by MeanBean49
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Personally I wouldnt want to go smaller than standard, especially as the motor is going to be constantly working harder than stock, its going to be running hotter.
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I put a k1 arm in my slingshot race bike, used standard slingy linkage and made some adjustable dog bones using rose joints.
Had to grind a bit of the swingarm in the middle to get bit more clearnce for the shock.
Used an ohlins and had it resprung to suit. Had no issues with it at all once I got it setup how I wanted it.
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2 hours ago, Bluex5 said:
Hi all, long term lurker but first time poster.
Took my standard GSXR1100L out today, the nature of the bike and the fact it’s my every day road bike means it rarely gets revved hard however I went for an overtake in second earlier on a slow moving car and it misfired but it felt really rough, not like hitting the limiter. Did some experiments and found that it’s misfiring at about 9 to 9.5k, which is accompanied by the tacho bouncing around like its signal is also braking down. I’m thinking CDI failure. Below this the bike rides perfectly, wiring harness was new last year, bike runs dyna mini coils. Tested the charging rate and it’s hard capped at 14.68V regardless of revs so I don’t think that’s an issue. Any input would be appreciated, I know the black boxes are 30+ years old now so failure wouldn’t be entirely surprising, however the couple of failures I’ve seen previously gave total loss of spark or loss of spark on one output (I.e. 1-3 or 2-4 dead). The tacho going mad leaves me pretty sure it’s electrical.
Had pretty much same thing with my race bike once, dropped off 2 cylinders at about 9k. Was the cdi.
If its at exactly same rpm its likely to be cdi, if it varies a bit then could be coil or pickup breaking down
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Could also be the movement of the pads in the calipers and the discs on there bobbins
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2 hours ago, mikeyd said:
I never had to clearance 1127 cases to fit Carrillo rods with stock stroke crank. Also, if this bike is strictly drag race, buy a set of rods. A lot of people use Busa, water cooled, Bandit rods and made good numbers on the dyno, but they are street bikes that never see that horsepower number again and certainly not constantly so irrelevant what held up in their motors. If you are drag racing, mass produced stock rods out of any motor were never meant to see triple the power.
Not strictly true, ive been running stock b12 rods in mine for years. Thousands of road miles, tons of trackdays and lots of landspeed events with no issues. Running at over tripple hp, and way way more torque.
Keep things well setup and well serviced and stock rods are pretty good. Ive only had any issues when pushing on above 300bhp
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2 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Or in your case, a large hole and a small hole and a butterfly shaft . . . . . . 'not all carbs are created equal' Glasshopper!
Like I said for the sake of the 3bhp top end having the butterfly there costs me i can live with that
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45 minutes ago, Wagola said:
All this makes total sense but.............having said that I do fancy a set of FCR's
Just got to remember when there fully open they are all just a hole with a smaller hole for fuel.
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1 hour ago, vizman said:
Not necessarily, some people on here use fancy things in anger.
Yup, and in all honesty unless your at top level and every minimal gain makes a difference, your money is better spent on good suspension and time on setup. I went back to bst's with my race bike because the 3bhp I gained at peak was not worth the constant fettling and maintenance to keep it running right. Good smooth consistant reliable performance from standard carbs makes much more sense to me.
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Spose if you want smooth running refinement but not a modern bike, wants some standard CV's on it, thats why cv's were invented, because they make running much smoother and more refined than carbs that only have a slide.
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So the aim of the project is?
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1 hour ago, Foz said:
My knees don’t fit the tank on them , it’d be down to bare metal within 6 months
They are smaller/narrower than a bandit
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15 minutes ago, vizman said:
Well, I’m not anywhoo....if he wanted to hit ‘this group of likeminded individuals’ for selling his bike, then like every other user on this site he can take some effort to get up to 50 posts and put it in the relevant section. It’s pretty simple, it’s in TFR.
Incoming "nice bike" comments on rapid fire
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27 minutes ago, dupersunc said:
Too fast. You want a nice Suzuki Burgman with a top box.
I actually had a go on one of those the other day, was a full fat 400 one. Actually a right laugh and bit of a handful round town, bandit wouldnt keep up
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13 minutes ago, vizman said:
You’d be better off with fuel injection, carbs are not that refined, and the 3 you’ve listed are more race oriented anywhoo
Or just buy a gsx-s 1000.
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1 hour ago, Jdeac said:
So from what your saying. I need to lean out the lower and top end??
Yes. Putting smaller mains in will lean it all out.
You need to get tbe top end fueling right before you think about trying to sort anywhere else out.
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5 minutes ago, Jdeac said:
Please excuse my lack of knowledge.
So the lower the number on afr is rich or lean??
Lower the number the richer it is.
Its the ratio of air relative to 1 part fuel.
14 :1 14 parts air to one part fuel
11 :1 11 parts air to one part fuel
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1 minute ago, Jdeac said:
When I say stock. I'm on about the carbs. Bike has full system and filters
With no engine work, 133bhp is not a genuine rwbhp figure.
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2 minutes ago, Jdeac said:
Is it right that the Afr should be between the red and green lines?? This is all new to me. Never had a bike on a dyno. And have done the jetting myself through lockdowns etc.
Yeah wants to be about 13.1 right through which should be centre of the red and green, within that band is close enough.
Looking at how rich yours is going main jets are far too big as a start.
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56 minutes ago, Jdeac said:
It was just a power run. To see what was what. No tuning.
Sounds like dyno guy doesnt actually know what hes on about.
Take it somewhere that does know and have them do the setup too would be my advice
If its a stock motor, the 133bhp figure is most likely an uncorrected crank figure
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I thought you werent supposed to actually ride it.
Supposed to just take it to loads of shows in a van and tell eveyone about how good it is and how much you pretend to use it instead
In all seriousness, awesome to see it being used, bet it would go well round a track too.
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8 hours ago, wombat258 said:
Electric pumps are simple, heavy, unreliable (not designed for high oil temperatures), and draw a lot of current on a small charging system, especially if you go EFI. Mechanical is light, reliable if designed correctly, draws no current, and has little parasitic drain on HP. Either way works in scavenging oil from the turbo, but have their own merits and limitations.
I found the opposite to most of that, facet pumps weighs no more than a mech scavenge pump (less than the one i looked at), seem more reliable due to less working parts and doesnt draw much current at all as well as working at a constant speed. Mines still going strong after 8 years.
Can see how it would help on an EFI bike where current draw is bit more important.
For me its extra expense and hassle, and most of the time people are asking about oil drain, catch tanks and smoky turbos, the people asking all seem to have mech pumps. Or that is ny observation.
Guess its a personal preference thing. I consider them the same way I do Cam Feed kits
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1 hour ago, clivegto said:
After a bit of external OSS research these work well.
As Gixer1460 says the oil needs to drain after engine shut dowto stop smokey startups.
Id rather know the turbo has oil at the bearings and see a puff of smoke on startup than drain it all away and potentially have a dry spell.
Personally I dont understand why anyone would use a pump whos volume changes with Rpm to scavenge an oil supply/drain that runs at an pretty much constant volume. Just doesnt make any logical sense
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1 hour ago, clivegto said:
This is what I need to know. Seems like lots of people have them, why ?
I can only imagine they either dont have oil pumps that move enough oil and are masking it with a catch tank, or they are just goimg on what they have been told by someone else.
Oil pump should shift whatever is put to it, whether its hot, cold, airated etc.
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49 minutes ago, clivegto said:
Looking for pictures and advice on catch tank from Turbo then to mechanical scavang pump. Any tips do's and don'ts.
Why do you need a catch tank? If your scavenge pump is ckearing as much oil at flows through the turbo (or technicalky more) there is no need for one. Waste of time and money
Teapot oil cooler question
in Oil Cooled
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Rotate standard by 90 degrees?