MeanBean49
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Posts posted by MeanBean49
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7 minutes ago, dupersunc said:
Fluid dynamics 101.
For a given flow rate, reduce pipe cross section, you increase pressure.
So if you reduce the bore size you either increase pressure or reduce flow.
In this case we aren't talking huge pressures, thepump will maintain the flow needed, but it will put a little more drag on the pump, so parasitic losses would be higher and slightly higher temps generated.
Real world, will you notice a difference? Probably not.
Yep, probably notice more in the wallet, bit cheaper to buy -6 lol
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10 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Not gonna argue with you but that's backwards! Oil cooling is based on a lower pressure system that shifts bulk volume and simple maths says you get bigger volume through a larger pipe at a given pressure (pump output) over the same time period. The in-pipe pressures can only increase / decrease with varying the restriction at outlet (which in this case is fixed!)
I suggest you do some research into pressure within a pipe vs csa.
Same volume (flow) equals higher pressure in the pipe the bigger the bore of the pipe
Thats why fuel injection systems use as small bore pipe as possible. Pressures in the pipes would be far too high otherwise
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Its funny, I was following that FB thread too, and if you get into it, the person saying top end oiling kit fixed their issues, actually failed to mention that they had previously also trapped the oil o-ring washers on top of the studs, which is what actually caused the issue, they fitted the oiling kit the same time they sorted the orings, and believe the kit fixed the issue not the o-rings.
My take on this, the oil "feed" kits actually tap into the low pressure system and supposedly feed into the high pressure system. Given that the low pressure is less than the high pressure, whats actually most likely to be happening is you bleeding off hp oil back into the lp system so in effect are reducing the oil supply in the HP system (crank as well as cams) in reality it probably has little effect given the pump should have enough capacity to cope. But the kits are nothing more than pointless bling.
Suzuki designed the engine and are pretty switched on, Im pretty sure if a few banjos and some pipe made an improvement to the oil system they would come from the factory like that.
Regarding the stud size causing a restriction, have a look at how big the hole is in the oil jet where the barrels meet the crank case, all the oil to the top end goes through those, and im sure if it gets through that ok, it will get up past the studs fine (just make sure the o-rings at the top leave a gap round the studs)
I have a pretty good idea how it all works, but if im in doubt I just look at the setup suzuki went with on their race bikes, if anything worked better it would be on them.
Regarding oil supply for your turbo, i found it easier to use carb jets tapped into the banjo on the take off, I start fairly big, so turbo smokes a bit and downsize in small increments until it stops, then take the return pipe of and run it check theres oil going through the turbo. Never had a problem, not all turbos are the same.
Thats my input anyway
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Looks to me like a 750 setup, slightly shorter hoses, you can get a meter of new hose for about £10, cut to size you need.
Regarding bore size looks to me like its -6 stuff, most people seem to go for that for some reason. Personally ive always gone with -8 for mine to mirror stock. In reality probably makes very little difference, small bore hose will put a bit more load on the pump but pressure in the hoses is less. Big hoses means less load on pump but higher pressure in the hose.
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On 1/9/2021 at 1:49 PM, Kamikaze said:
Yep. Great project frames they are.
Still got mine sitting in the shed after I bought it 4 yrs ago. It’s one of those projects to work on when u have nothing to do.
Plus I still need to pilfer all the parts off the other slingy’s I have to make it a roller.
Let me have it, ive got bits to make it a roller
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11 minutes ago, Hoomietune said:
SPS Offset Front Sprocket. 10mm/3/8th Offset from standard. Avaialble in 15,16,17,18 tooth Size
Cost was £65 plus £ 5 postage
@MeanBean49: details Msg to you
didn’t want to be whipped by Hierarchy for advertising products
I dont need one mate.
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4 hours ago, Jpich85 said:
Going from this picture, if you removed the internal wastegate and opened this flap up permanently, wouldn't the manifold gas just pass straight through the turbo then build up in the wastegate if you mounted it like I mentioned at the beginning of the thread.
I'm not sure how turbos are designed so maybe by the time it come out of this separate flap it's already passed through the turbo?
In order to run an external wastegate with turbo housing like this, you can either weld the flap valve shut and put the wastegate into the headers, or weld the flap open, make a seperator plate in the housing that seals against the exhaust flange and feeds into a seperate pipe with the wastegate in, like the pic you put up earlier.
That all being said at boost levels up to about 18psi ive never had a problem using a standard internal wastegate on either td04 or VF range turbos, i just change the actuators for adjustable ones for easy boost adjustment.
Big aftermarket turbos are a different kettle of fish
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On 12/12/2020 at 1:35 PM, clivegto said:
Splashed out on some moto gadget blaze pin indicators, there bloody bright and look way better than the cheap ones I was going to use. Also got some brembo discs of MeanBean49 which have done less than 2000 miles (cheers Rob). Will fit them when I fit the mudguard.
Your welcome mate, good to have a natter and catch up.
Pics really dont the bike justice, its even nicer in the flesh
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18 hours ago, TiZiK said:
Not trying to have a pissing match here bud. Read closer. You mis-understood from the get go.
Main gallery line to head has been removed as stated right above the pic.
There are 6 other ports supplying oil to the head which all have restrictor to maintain pressure. These 2 that I blocked have no restrictors and dump straight to atmosphere.
Also read the part where I said its a race bike, not a street bike.
Also read the part where another member with a similar set-up, who recommended this work around, has been running his like this for a couple years with no issues. Unless he went out of his way to fabricate a big lie which I highly doubt.
I'm just passing on the info for others in the future as none of this could be found online when I was initially searching before I even started to build the engine. I just hope it helps someone else out.
Read what ai told you properly, your cross connecting and messing with 2 seperate oil systems. One high pressure and one low pressure.
Those two ports are open to "atmosphere" are like that for a reason, they supply lots of low pressure, high flow oil for cooling of the cylinder head. You niw dont have any.
You also have 2 systems cross connected, with a high pressure system now bleeding off into a low pressure system, that lowers the pressure in the HP system, which includes the oil pressure supplied to the crank as welk as the cams.
You have messed with two oil systems and compromised both when all you needed to do to compensate for the dry block is run an external line from the hp gallery plug at the bottom up to a cam plug either side of the head which keeps the system working exactly as Suzuki intended. Everything they designed is meant that way for a reason
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54 minutes ago, TiZiK said:
Surely it'd be nice to get some recommendations for a solution when the question is first asked instead of the solution criticized after the fact.
Crank doesn't have a pressure issue. The cams did. The 2 ports I plugged in the valve cover were wide open causing a drop in oil pressure. Now that they are plugged, no more squeaky squeak. All the other ports and passages seem to have a restrictor in them to maintain pressure.
I'm no expert here. Another member with a similar setup as mine (big bore, dry block, turbo) had the same issue and this was the solution for him and his engine has been good since. Either way, something to be aware of. Take it or leave it.
See above where I gave the same advice before you did it too!
Those ports are open for a reason, they are for a cylinder head cooling oil from the low pressure system. You now have no cooling oil supply to the head.
And was refering to the crank oil pressrue now as a result of plumbing the high pressure system into the low pressure system.
Like I said the best way the oil system works is how suzuki designed it. Sounds like you have an espensive motor your likely to overheat and trash if your doing anymore than drag racing with it.
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8 hours ago, TiZiK said:
Couple pics. Tonight I removed the line from the main gallery to the head.
I really dont understand what youve done here, that bit you have blanked off supplies the cooling oil for the cylinder head?
Why you are plumbing into the low pressure system doesnt make sense either.
Surely all you need to do is take an external feed from the crank plug and feed it into the cam plugs whic lh replicates how the system is designed to work.
That to me us a recipie for overheated head and cams, and a crank with too little supply pressure
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1 hour ago, Dezza said:
Tis a semantics malfuction on my part. I mean the oil plunger thingy. Bits 11,12,23 and 24 on here
I think that one may be a cooler bypass
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26 minutes ago, Dezza said:
Blandit 12 mk1, no valve in sump as far as I can see
Item 18
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3 hours ago, Dezza said:
To stray from the OP slightly, if the Blandit 12 has a relief valve on the oil pump, what happens when a GSXR sump is used on a Blandit 12 engine? On GSXRs the relief valve is in the sump so should this be removed when fitting to a Blandit 12 lump? And then what happems when a B12 sump goes on a GSXR lump? I know this has been discussed before but to my knowledge no-one has posted a definitive answer.
Oil cooled motors as far as I knew all have 2 relief valves, one for the high pressure system and one for the low pressure, hp is in the sump pan and lp is on the pump.
Parts fiche does show mk 2 without one on pump, gewssing suzuki must have decided because their is verly low pressure in the LP and its highly unlikely to get blocked to do away with a relief valve, probably cost saving
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4 hours ago, JJSalo said:
That kind of a turbo may be an ideal solution for a small capacity mc. Unfortunately I allready bought a kp35. Anyway, also it should work. It is air-cooled and when used in cars 1200 cc engines it gives the maximum torque at as low as 1500rpm, meaning theoretically that the amount of pumped air is the same as it is when a 400 cc mc is running at 4500rpm?
At the moment I am wondering how to weld a double-layer exhaust pipe that I am going to use to keep the exhaust-gases hot before getting to the turbine.
How far away from the head are you planning on having the turbo? Having the turbo sat where most of us do, your not going to loose any heat worth worrying about anyway, its like 50mm
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51 minutes ago, badger said:
OK. Again going off what dave recommended and put together.
I'll have a see if there's any identification on it.
I'll probably pick up at some point then. Sounds like a good solution and a lot cheaper and easier than an external set up!
I dont know much about others, just 22, 23 and 24 lol
Yeah its a decent cheap thing to try, also easy to change spring on if you want to change base pressure. They also work really well with a cheap electronic boost solenoid so you can set boost to whatever you want, whilst your riding too
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1 hour ago, badger said:
I've had a total mental block on what models they were!
I ask dave if he remembers and he said
Either a 23 “ 28 or 29. I thought it was a 34 and something. It is on a stock actuator. I havent checked the diaphragm in it for holes bit I will.The arm coming out the turbo connecting to the valve is whats in the way but I've seen people machining this down rewelding.
Are the kingawa actuators OK then? If I can so the above you you've not had issues would resolve a bunch of problems!
Thanks!
Yeah kingawa actuators are really good, and are rebuildable, just got a new diaphragm for mine as it split after 4 years.
VF23 is what was on mine, great turbo. Cant really hybrid them in a way that will make them any better, just worse
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42 minutes ago, badger said:
Sooooooooooo,
My internal waste gate is set too 16psi but it doesn't stay there long! It will just keep going up and up. I have an IHI vf hybrid and i've read this is a common-ish problem. Anyone else had an issue and what was a resolve? Im assuming an external waste gate will be best? I do have a bit of a fitment issue as the WG actuator arm sits pretty much in my oil filter and has twice stabbed a hole in it in 1500 miles!What sort of hybrid is it?
I ditched my standard actuator and replaced with a kingawa one, never had any problems at all with boost creep.
You Could have a pin hole on the actuator diaphragm.
Also swapping to aftermarket one allowed me to move it round so didnt foul on anything
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3 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
You got no oil cooling then?
I dont see why that would have any relevance to the operation of a bb turbo.
You hang it in front of the engine and feed it the right amount of oil, whether the engine behind it is air or air/oil cooled makes no difference
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6 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
The turbo from a Smart car may work but even that is for an engine at least 50% larger than the OP is using! And regarding the VF20's, I personally wouldn't fit a BB turbo to an aircooled engine without some form of liquid cooling!
Been working fine on mine for 6 years
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10 hours ago, Superaiden1 said:
Brilliant thank you mate how did you know how much to take off mine is b12 with k7 1000 swing arm
That was about as much as its safe to take off K1 wheels
Yeah had to trim 5mm off the rubbers too.
The other 5mm difference needed I did running a Talon sprocket back to front, and a 2mm spacer behind front sprocket
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1 hour ago, Superaiden1 said:
How much did you machine the carrier and or spacers ?
5mm off wheel/carrier and spacer to make carrier sit 5mm closer to wheel centre
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3 hours ago, Wagola said:
Just to add to the debate a bit. I have a Mag 4 on a Q plate that shows Date of 1st registration as May 1993 on the V5. I don't run any indicators and have never been pulled on this at MOT time for not having indicators. Seems like its at the testers discretion, or how well you know/get on with the tester , OR whether the tester is fully aware of the intricacies of rules ? Minefield !!
I was told that if indicators are fitted then they have to be working but this was many years ago and may not be valid advice now.
Like i said, it will pass an MOT because tester manual tells them to treat as 1971/75, but it isnt legal as per construction and use, and lighting regs.
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GSXR Earls Oil lines
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Yeah should be fine, the LP system is seperate from the HP so wont have any bearing on the crank/cam system that you feed your turbo from