MeanBean49
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Posts posted by MeanBean49
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6 hours ago, Alex said:
Hello all. I have a mk1 b12 it has a gsxr750 k1 front end and gsxr1000 k1 calipers someone has put on. Is there a caliper upgrade for these forks, reason I ask is that I’ve read reports that some prefer to put 4 pots on over the 6 pots. Should I go back to k1 750 calipers or is there a good aftermarket caliper? All options are welcome. Thanks Alex.
The K1 6 pots are way better than the earlier 6 pots and work well.
The K1 4 pots are just as good and do still need a bit less maint and are easier to bleed.
Braided hoses and some good quality sticky compound pads will work really well.
Swapping to a radial master from any newer bike is a good upgrade, not really any better stopping power, but gives better feel.
Thing to remember is they are just Pistons in a hole, doesmt matter who makes them, they all do the same thing. Most of the "better performance" from a caliper upgrade is placebo effect, if you have just spent a shit load of money on some fancy brakes your going to convince yourself they are better irrelevant of if they are or not. You can bet your life that if say Brembo caliper piston size gave better performance, all the other manufacturers would make there pistons the same size too.
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28 minutes ago, davecara said:
It will in effect make the spaces between the Inlet valve and the butterfly one big vacuum chamber. I cant see it having any impact on AFR to be honest but time will tell! The MAP and FPR need to be referenced from the same place so I cant think of any other way of doing it really
I wasnt thinking about it affecting AFR, was thinking more about boost pressure and the loss off it.
I guess even though air can flow from one cylinder to another freely if they are all linked they will still be pressurised roughly the same irrelevant of what stroke each cylinder is on
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2 hours ago, davecara said:
As I'm fitting throttle bodies between my plenum and head I need to take my MAP/Fuel Reg readlings from between the throttle butterfly and the head.
To get consistant readings has anyone ever used a vacuum manifold? Something I can attach the 4 runners to and then take my metrics from there. Just thinking it'll be more reliable than T pieces etc
Wouldnt that just allow boost/air to bleed off from the firing cylinder into to others?
Ive only ever paired them up in pairs if that makes sense, 1+4 and 2+3
Probably doesnt make any real difference
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15 hours ago, Kid Kearsley said:
Where do retired Winged Hammer bikes live on OSS?
I am kinda ashamed at the state of what the bike is in now. Dragged the girl out from the side of the shed, I'd being using it as a shelf for stuff and there were pushbikes scratching all up on it etc. It's now crying out for a rebuild and the plan is SWB draw thru half faired (maybe). Iv stolen so many parts off it for the EFE that I'm on a mad scrounge for parts to get it back together and running for the 2022 TT.
Unfaired like MDM said. Give me a shout if you need owt, got fair few bitd kicking round
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4 hours ago, george 1100 said:
Can the switch be used and wired as a stand alone unit or does it need to be used with the ignition module?
No, you would still need a control module like most quickshifters.
Bonus of ignitech is its all in one box
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10 hours ago, dupersunc said:
I run my 1100 motors at 50m/s, its smooth as silk. 40m/s is too short and harsh.
60m/s is ok, 70m/s it gets jerky.
A decent q/s isn't a straight kill, it should feed the spark back in over 10-15m/s
Have you had a play with the delay time too mate?
Going to put one on my slingy I think, good to have a setting to start with
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Think people are getting confused with what a quickshifter and an air shifter do.
You can have both.
Air shifter is just replacing your foot doing the change. You still need a way of killing the ignition for it to work. They tend to have a primitive ignition kill switch wired in.
A quick shifter does not affect gear selection, it controls the ignition system when a gear selection is made, to allow it to happen with no clutch and no throttle back off.
Track riding I would only really want a,quickshifter
Drag racing i would have an ir shifter with a quickshifter
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Get an ignitech cdi and one of there quickshifters.
Great bits of kit, especially for a trackbike
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18 minutes ago, wraith said:
Ok, just put a set of carbs (38mm gsxr) on the kat, cleaned and oiled K&N pod carbs have the b12 pilot jets in instead of the gsxr750 ones. All runs ok but sluggish for the revs to drop when you blip the throttle.
This is the brain fade bit
is this rich or lean? I'm thinking lean but the brain won't open the right memory door Lean or rich?
Yep Lean tends to make revs hang up, rich makes them drop and pickup
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Contrary to the above ive swapped cam caps round on many occasions, the trick is taking all the valve gear out so the cam can sit in with no other forces on it. If youve got loads put them on one at a time, cam needs to turn with little resistance but with no free play. If they are a bit tight you can use really fine wet and dry to open them up a bit until they free up.
Takes a while but you can get them right.
If the origionals are there you should find the right ones by trial and error anyway.
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19 minutes ago, Hoomietune said:
Radial Brembo disc -caliper -MC are the best brakes I’ve ever used absolutely awesome
All placebo if they have been used on conventional forks.
Normal mounted brembos with a normal brembo master with the same discs and pads would perform just the same
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On 2/1/2021 at 1:24 AM, stueypie said:
Just thought I'd hijack this old thread for others who have searched for something similar.
Tokico 6 pots are rubbish. At their best & when looked after they are a good caliper but require frequent stripping to maintain the same braking performance as any decent 4 pot.
If you are looking for replacements and really want to stick with something that looks meatier than "just 4 pots", ISR, PFM, Harrison, Beringer all have 6 pot axial calipers for MEGABUCKS as they're a bit...special, but they're lovely. As a cheaper option, fit this axial-to-radial machined bracket from HEL: https://www.helperformance.com/axial-to-radial-caliper-conversion-brackets and then fit a common used radial caliper for less money because radial calipers are now the braking "standard" and because of the law of supply-and-demand they are now really affordable. And then you really have awesome stoppers. You will need to change your MC to suit.
You do realise because your mounting a radial caliper using conventional forks it completely negates the whole thing that makes radials better.
You dont need to upgrade your master cylinder either, its still just a piston in a hole pushing pistons out of holes.
A radial master will however give better feel over axial.
And you tend to find newer calipers have a better selection of pads available.
A radial master and some nissin 4 pots with good race pads and braided hoses will be every bit as good as radials mounted with those adaptors but at a fraction of the cost
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7 minutes ago, Tinsnips said:
6Sigma does jet kits based on engine, carb, intake type, exhaust model, and altitude. You could inquire with them what they would suggest. I bought one of their kits for my 40mm BSTs and it was an easy swap. They include the base settings and specific instructions.
Pretty much all jet kits are model speciffic and come with base settings.
They also all advise setting up on a dyno to get them right.
Also pretty unlikely anyone will do a jet kit for aftermarket flatslide carbs.
Its all just guesswork without a dyno or some way to monitor afr, or at worst plug colour
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9 hours ago, 1100G said:
Thanks for the input. I am waiting on some other parts, so maybe I'll begin with the 120 jets.
A dyno while a great idea simply is not feasible for a number of reasons such as geographic and economic.
Ahh, so it will be hours of the test ride and plug chop cycle then.
Might be worth looking at a Gunson Colourtune kit
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Best answer is get it on a dyno. Its not really worth the wasted time and effort trying to do it your self or even trying to get it somthing like prior to dyno, takes very little time in comparisson on a dyno to get a good setup even if starting from it running like a sack of shit.
Reccomendations for other bikes are largely pointless and irrelevant, as is advice based on different sized carbs and what jets have been used in them.
Not sure exactly what is being reffered to above with "good depression" carbs work on a pressure differential where the pressure in the float bowl is higher than through the carb body which causes fuel to be effectively blown/sucked (whichever way you want to look at it) into the airflow. The main jet is there to control the ratio of fuel added is correct at max demand, the needle helps modulate the fuel for lower throttle openings and constant throttle.
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Measure it, if you find the id and od you can find out if they are available on simplybearings website
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On 2/19/2021 at 11:09 AM, Gixer1460 said:
Longer or shorter dog bones - I can never remember which - think its longer! Oh and a significant raise will fuck up the 750's handling!
Doesnt work on a bike that has no dog bones
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37 minutes ago, Ted M said:
If I am reading this right you have a mix and match setup of Dynojet parts. The B12 Mk 2 carbs are different to the Mk1 carbs. 155 main jet is a Dynojet part for the Mk1 B12. They are too big for the Mk2 carbs. The mixture screw is also wrong for those carbs also it should be 2.5 turns out you also need to adjust the float hieght to 11 - 11.5mm. Google Dynojet B12 Instructions and you will get the details you need to set the carbs up.
They are still only ballpark instructions. Following them still doesnt mean it will run right.
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11 hours ago, motopsycho87 said:
Took it out again, same on the flat spot but definitely a bit richer off idle. Going to do the needle another clip leaner and see if it's better or worse. Or should i maybe try doing to a 150 main? Annoying thing is again it only happens when rolling on in a high gear just after cruising, otherwise it goes like hell... Any ideas?
Idle shouldnt have changed unless you have messed with the mixture screw.
I would just stick it on a Dyno. Even just paying for a power run with afr on the printout will show you exactly what its doing so you know which way you need to go
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11 hours ago, motopsycho87 said:
Done 4 changes today
Raised 2 clips, way better but now it has a lean spot that nearly clears when warm
Tried original needles on bottom clips, too rich at idle
Tried original needles at 3rd clip, too lean in the mid
So now I've left the dynojet needles in as they were, but out the original springs back in in the hope that maybe the carb was lifting too high too soon and not able to pull enough fuel during roll on, is this thought process correct? Work in the morning so no test ride until tomorrow evening
Also, visor flew off my helmet :'(
If that doesn't work then the next step will be to drop 1 clip and see if that's the happy medium
If your needles are adjustable they arent stock, b12 carbs have fixed needles as standard.
And whether your thought proces is correct is hard to say without knowing how your riding.
On WOT above about 4-6k rpm (depending on gear/load) needles and slides will have little effect on fueling as the slide will be fully open. Its purely down to main jet size.
The slides have more of an effect on low rpm range, smaller throttle openings and keeping the fueling correct at constant throttle
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5 minutes ago, wraith said:
My mistake,
I thought the stage 3 kits you had to drill the slides and put a plastic jet in them, and the stage 1 you didn't.
Putting on a Dyno is the best way some would say some not.
It all depends on what bike the kit is for to what stuff is in the kit.
Always found drillimg slides, adding jets, or sticking bits in the air correctors ultimately does do much other than mean more faffimg trying to get it to run as well as using standard needles and shimmimg/adjuating them to suit.
Ive always managed to get the same results using stock stuff and a £10 set of correctly sized main jets. Sometimes some bigger pilots.
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4 minutes ago, motopsycho87 said:
The plan is to get it nicely close then take it for a dyno run. I've got some 150 mains also to try. And I'm getting carbs out, rejetted and back within an hour
Its not just that though is it, its all the yest riding, being able to stop the instant youve done your high speed high rpm wot run and pulled your plug at side of the road.
And in all honesty it will save virtually no time on the dyno whether its a mile out or pretty close. Good dyno operator will know pretty much what jets are needed based on whats fitted and what the afr shows.
This is just my advice based on my experience, would rather pay for an extra hour on the dyno than needlesly waste hours and hours of my own time
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11 minutes ago, motopsycho87 said:
From what I've done so far
Rich - no power but smooth
Lean - cuts out, pops and bangs
So this is making me think leaner on the needle
With regards to the main jet, the range with pods seems to be 150-160 so I just went in the middle for now and it's a great improvement on standard
Normally find with a b12 on pods that work (k+n or ramair) the kit supplied jets are too big. Ive always found 140/145 to be where you end up, maybe smaller.
Needles its not really worth bothering with until main jet is right.
Which if you arent going to use dyno takes some WOT in higher gears at high rpm, followed by immediately killing motor and stopping so you can check your plug colour.
Give yourself about 97 days faffing and chopping and changing and you should get close enough to start thinking about mid range and needles
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37 minutes ago, wraith said:
A stage 1 kit is more for bikes with standard air box etc you need stage 3 kit
Only difference in "stages" is the size of the mains supplied in the kit iirc. Stage 3 kit is exactly the same as a stage 1 it just has some bigger jets in as well.
The stage thing is just a tag to make boy racer types think they have somthing special to shout about. Its not really a thing. Particulalrly when most of the time you get a bike setup on a dyno you find you need a jet size not included in the kit but one in between, what "stage" have you got then?
I just see the whole as setup and jetted to suit your spec/components, there are no stages
Brake calipers upgrade
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Yeah k1 gsxr 1000, also on gsx 1400 iirc, should be plenty good enough with that master, and looks like galfer discs. SBS performance pads are really good